Will Tire Pressure Increase/Decrease the Risk of a Flat During Mowing?

[Piston]

I'm curious if tire pressure would affect (affect or effect? I think affect) the chances of puncturing a tire when mowing in heavy brush?

Is a higher tire pressure more "durable" when it comes to running over freshly cut saplings? Or is a lower pressure better because it will tend to flex around the "stump" a little better?


I try to minimize the possibility of a tire puncture by driving forward through the brush. However, many times (and a lot more often recently) I have to back into the brush, as it's either too thick to go though, or too large for me to drive over.

I find I have a lot more control by slowly backing into thick saplings than driving over them. I keep my blades dull, never sharpened them, which I'm sure helps a lot as I don't leave sharp pointy sapling stumps all over. I don't know what else to do in order to minimize a puncture, short of avoiding driving over them all together, which isn't really an option where I'm currently clearing. I'm curious if tire pressure would help at all?

 

[JasG]

Just from what I know of tires it probably is going to depend on the tire. I know some tires can have trouble with corn stalks. The problem with running lower pressure is more side wall flex and makes the tires more likely to have an issue. I've seen corn get wedged in the bead, even puncture the wall of a tire. I know many of the heavy duty tires used by people who only mow brush are made with Kevlar. That is to give them strength to not get punctured.
All I could find was an article on corn damage.
Tips To Avoid Tire Damage From Stubble - No-Till Farmer

Most brush cutters recommend a flat on the front edge of the blade. Mine I believe is 1/8" flat. This should cut the top and shred it to some degree at the same time with saplings and other woody stems..

 

[ruffdog]

While working at a motorcycle dealer, the ATV's that were getting more flats were the people over-inflating their tires.

 

[94BULLITT]

I would say too little or too much would be prone to a puncture.

Wouldn't backing in to reduce the risk because you can see where you are going?

 

[Piston]

I would say too little or too much would be prone to a puncture.

Wouldn't backing in to reduce the risk because you can see where you are going?

Sort of the opposite, when you back into the brush your cutting it before driving over the sapling stumps, so of course you need to drive over them to continue on. Driving over the fresh cut sapling stumps is where the biggest risk of a tire puncture comes from.

When driving forward the saplings just bend over as you go, then get cut after the tires are already past. Another big danger is driving over saplings, and stopping and reversing to recut something you missed. This is a sure fire way of getting a sapling jammed up into the undercarriage of the tractor, possibly breaking something, bending a steel hydraulic line, or damaging of of the filters underneath. I've often thought of building a skid plate to protect under the tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

I don't know what else to do in order to minimize a puncture, short of avoiding driving over them all together, which isn't really an option where I'm currently clearing.

Do not try to run tires to ultimate possible end; it is not worth it. New, thick, flexible tires are much more puncture resistant than well worn tires.

Buy R4 Industrial Tires rather than R1 Ag Tires.

 

[JasG]

I've seen tractors with full bottom skid plates for this type of work. That protects the whole bottom from trees and other stuff.

Or you may which to change to a different type of machine. A skidsteer with a mulching head works very well.

SEPPI M. - forestry mulcher - MIDIFORST skid steer - YouTube

Terex Forestry Mulcher Mower - Land Clearing in VA by JR Landworks - YouTube

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have bush hogged acres of saplings and never had an issue with running over stubble with the tires. The stubble is pretty much shattered at the top and poses no danger to an R1 or R4. My brother in law has a 750 JD with turf tires and we mowed the whole 42 acres the first time using that and there was lots of saplings to cut. No damage to any of the tires. I have also backed into thick brush and chopped it up while driving over the stubble, no problem. Stubble problems occur when you cut with an axe or chain saw in a slanted direction (or when a beaver chews down the sapling leaving a punji stick end. Keep your bush hog set as low to the ground as possible and the stubs will only be a couple inches high, not high enough to reach the tire carcass unless your lugs are severely worn.
I definitely support what Piston says about reversing direction when cutting saplings. You should never drive forward over a sapling and then reverse without cutting it up. Same thing with cane, corn stalks etc, reversing will break off the main trunk and drive pieces of it up into your tractor with possible damage resulting

 

[JasG]

On page 2 of this thread it shows a Ford set up for brush mowing. It has the Kevlar tires on it, and a full length belly pan.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...1176-steel-underpan-front-bumper-steel-2.html

 

[Piston]

I've seen tractors with full bottom skid plates for this type of work. That protects the whole bottom from trees and other stuff.

Or you may which to change to a different type of machine. A skidsteer with a mulching head works very well.

SEPPI M. - forestry mulcher - MIDIFORST skid steer - YouTube

Terex Forestry Mulcher Mower - Land Clearing in VA by JR Landworks - YouTube

A mulcher is at the top of my "things-to-buy-when-I-win-the-lottery" list! My neighbor has an RC100 with Fecon mulcher on it and he's done some work for me in the past. Those things are amazing. I could have him do the whole area in not too much time but those aren't cheap to run, and not only that, I wouldn't be getting any seat time in.