Why so few hydraulic top links?

SpringBox · Apr 25, 2006

A big thanks to all who have contributed to this forum in the past - for me it has inspired the making of a number of 3 pt implements such as a sprayer, box blade, scarifier and rear counterweight for my Kubota BX2300 which make life much easier (oh and helps me justify some of the more expensive tools). /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

However, one of the most useful additions to any CUT must be a hydraulic top link as the manual ones can be a real pain. They cannot be difficult to make if you start with correctly sized bits.

Does anyone have any experience of ram size, stroke, pipe dia etc? Any advice would be much appreciated.

MadReferee · Apr 25, 2006

Why make one when they can be purchased, with double pilot operated check valves, for under $200?

Save yourself time and aggravation and go to Carter & Carter and order one of theirs. Best $189 you will have ever spent. Plenty of us here on TBN have already done so.

dfkrug · Apr 26, 2006

I have bought a number of the hyd toplinks ready-made,
but you can make one for only $75 in materials. Agri-supply
has cylinders for $60 and the swivel eyes for 3.99 ea.
Hoses add another $15. If I did it over again, I would make
one myself because then I can make one with extra long
action.

SpringBox · Apr 26, 2006

Thanks for the replies guys.

Boy are you spoilt living in the USA - despite what you might think, everything is SO cheap there !

Here in the UK a similar hydraulic top link (if you can find one small enough for a cat 1 linkage) is about $600 and the parts to make one are not available from agricultural merchants.

Now a bit of a moan because it has been a long day...

Unleaded petrol (gas) is nearly $8 a gallon, income tax is 50%, sales tax 17.5% on almost everything, land and housing is EXTREMELY expensive and it rains all the time; our lunatic government has banned hunting and will soon try to ban fishing whilst uncontrolled immigration (often of people who's alien culture would like to destroy the very country which welcomes them in no questions asked) is making it seem a foreign land - no place like home eh?

Thanks, that feels better....

Back to the point - crazily I have brought a few items over from the states - paid retail in US, shipped it across the Atlantic, paid import duty, sales tax, had it shipped by road to my house & it is still less than half UK prices !!

Whilst I am not going to allow you to be too smug, you are lucky having so much choice.

Keep up the good work.

MadReferee · Apr 26, 2006

At least you should be able to get the double pilot operated check valves in the UK. A few weeks ago while surfing the net for hydraulic supplies, I stumbled across a hydraulic supplier in Ireland if I recall, and he had the stuff we can't seem to find over here.

Reg · Apr 26, 2006

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have bought a number of the hyd toplinks ready-made,
but you can make one for only $75 in materials. Agri-supply
has cylinders for $60 and the swivel eyes for 3.99 ea.
Hoses add another $15. If I did it over again, I would make
one myself because then I can make one with extra long
action. )</font>

I'd be interested to know WHICH cylinder to order from Agri. Bore and stroke, check valves, etc.
I'd like to do the same on the right side link too.
I think "Top 'n Tilt" is the commercial name for those in combination.

Reg · Apr 26, 2006

Hey SpringBox,
There isn't any REAL beer here.
They didn't tell me about THAT ! before I left.

(-:

Sarge · Apr 27, 2006

I have a B1700 with a 301 FEL. Reading the owners manual it says that on the Hydraulic Block there is a "power beyond port". Does this mean that I can hook a hose to this and then run it to the valve control for the rear remotes?????

MadReferee · Apr 27, 2006

Sort of. The power beyond hose from the loader probably connects to that port on the hydraulic block. To add another valve to control rear remotes you must put the valve in series with the power beyond port. That means take the hose that connects to the power port on the block (probably comes from the loader) and connect it to the inlet of your new aux valve. Connect the power beyond port of your aux valve back to the power beyond port on the hydraulic block. Connect the tank line from your aux valve to wherever the tank line from the loader valve goes, usually on the transmission somewhere. This line can be teed and is the only line that can be teed.

You are now all set.