Why are 7-pin connectors so sloppy?

[gsganzer]

Both my rear bumper connection and my in-bed gooseneck connection seem to be sloppy (Bumper is Ford OEM, gooseneck is Hopkins). With two different trailers and in both configurations I get the same issue. Today, while heading up to Madill OK to get some pipe, my truck was constantly sensing the bumper pull trailer plug connecting and disconnecting. I'll get the same thing sometimes (although less frequently)with my gooseneck horse trailer. The male/female connection is fully engaged and the flip cap tab is fully engaged in the opposing tab on the plug, so I don't understand why I'm getting such a crappy/intermittent connection.

I know when I was talking to one of the truck bed installers (Install CM and Pronghorn truck beds), they said they won't install the 7-pin connectors because of this problem. They prefer the 6-pin round connector.

Does anyone have the same issue with the 7-pin connectors and is there a simple fix?

 

[nisaacs]

Change out your single contact trailer plug with a dual contact Bargman plug.

 

[gsganzer]

Change out your single contact trailer plug with a dual contact Bargman plug.

View attachment 702726

Oh man!!! I thought you had the winning answer, until I went out and looked at my trailer plugs. Both are dual contact and one is actually a Bargman. However, I'll see if I can squeeze the contacts a little tighter and squirt some dielectric grease into each contact on the plug. I'll also double check all the connections on the truck. The dealer actually put the B&W gooseneck hitch in and the gooseneck receptacle, I'm hoping they used a connector and not those cheap insulation penetrating wire splice gizmo's.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Usually once a year, on my 2008 Ford F150 Limited, I take a small blade flat screwdriver, with about a 3/16th inch wide blade, and spread open every pin on the connector. I noticed way back when that the pins on the truck end used to get narrower over time, so by spreading them out a bit, I get a nice tight connection, every time.

 

[i7win7]

Nothing on my trailer worked this year, no lights, no brakes. I crawled under truck with test meter and had power to the light pins. Used 12v battery and some jumper wires on trailer plug and could make lights work.

The socket on the truck - all the tabs were flattened - like someone shoved a piece of pipe in there and flattened them.

Replaced truck connector to fix problem.

 

[Randy Gann]

When I tow my fifth wheel RV I do a couple wraps of electrical tape around flip cap and plug to hold it tight in the socket. Makes me feel that it is more secure. Takes only a few seconds to do and easy to remove.

 

[LittleBill21]

every person I talked to who installed this, said their issues vanished, if they kept it clean

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[BravoXray]

That type of plugs and sockets are cheap crap. I have a friend that pulls new boats for a local company, and he continually has problems with them, even on new trailers.
I would replace them with standard semi type 7 pole connectors and sockets that are much better. We very rarely had problems with them on my trucks.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK11700.html

https://www.etrailer.com/wiring/pollak/pk11720.html

 

[workinonit]

Yea, I use the pin connectors. Those flat spade connectors are unreliable.

 

[oosik]

I have nothing to pull but went out and checked the Power Wagon. It has the seven pole type connector. And a separate oval two pin connector socket. Both have a spring loaded trap door to keep them weather tight.