Whiteish substance in bevel gear/pinion case

[Dcara]

I have noticed a milky looking substance in the pinion case oil recently that is separated from the oil on my Komatsu D31S-16. I'm curious if it could be moisture related since I have been clearing trees in a wet/ slightly muddy area lately and my rear seal leaks about 2 quarts every 8 hours of use. It leaks very little when just sitting. But my tracks and sprockets have been covered in mud for a few days. What do you folks think?

 

[ToadHill]

Sounds like water to me.

 

[cbturf]

water in oil

 

[bontai_Joe]

I agree, sounds like water.

 

[EddieWalker]

When water and oil mix, it turns white. It also stops functioning as a lubricant. You need to drain it, flush it out and put in clean oil. If you don't you will cause it to wear out extremly quicky. Days instead of years type of wear.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[Dcara]

Assuming it is water then the question is how is it getting in. If its getting in through the leaky seal then I wonder if mud is getting in also. Where should I look for the drain plug? Under the final drive maybe?

BTW, how big of a job time wise is replacing the seals? I assume the first step is taking the track off, then jacking up the machine and removing the sprocket for starters.

 

[Dcara]

Here is an interesting discussion on the topic

Detecting and Controlling Water in Oil

 

[Eagleview]

Assuming it is water then the question is how is it getting in. If its getting in through the leaky seal then I wonder if mud is getting in also. Where should I look for the drain plug? Under the final drive maybe?

I doubt the water is getting in past the axle seal as you would need to park the machine in water above the seal for an extended period . It is probably rain water getting in through a breather/crook gasket/bad boot etc on the top of the final drive housing . The water is probably the reason the seal is now leaking .

 

[Dcara]

Do you mean that the water has damaged the seal causing the leak (maybe from corrosion), or do you mean the water has decreased the viscosity enough to allow leakage? I guess it could be more of the first and a little of the second.

I use 10/30 in the tranny and final drive. I wonder if I could try something thicker in the final drive to help maintain viscosity until I can find the water intake leaks, and maybe reduce the seal leakage too.

Any thoughts on the efforts required to fix it?

 

[Eagleview]

Do you mean that the water has damaged the seal causing the leak (maybe from corrosion), or do you mean the water has decreased the viscosity enough to allow leakage? I guess it could be more of the first and a little of the second.

I use 10/30 in the tranny and final drive. I wonder if I could try something thicker in the final drive to help maintain viscosity until I can find the water intake leaks, and maybe reduce the seal leakage too.

Any thoughts on the efforts required to fix it?

The water itself could have damaged the seal , as the water will separate overnight so that the oil floats on top and pure water is underneath . The pure water will damage gears , bearings , seals etc . The water could have pitted the seal or entered the hub and damaged the main bearing so that the tolerance between the seal faces are now not within specs . It is also easier for water to leak out , acting as a vehicle to carry some oil with it . I would first check all the possible entry points on the top of the case where water can get in from rain or cleaning and seal them up .

Some finals require engine oil and others require 90 weight oil , you will need to find out which . Either way , the seal needs to be fixed now , you will need to locate the master pin and drive it out to split the track . The master pin usually has a dimple in it's end face to identify it . If you split the track at the 9 o'clock position on the sprocket (depending on which sproket is leaking), it gives you the best unobstructed swing with the hammer . It is then an easy matter to walk the machine forward a couple of feet so that the track falls off the sprocket at the 3 o'clock position . You then need to jack the sprocket up so it can be removed .

Does anyone on TBN have a workshop manual they can scan the page from to help Dcara ?