Which tractor for small operator? 5'1" petite farm owner

[WVH1977]

It sounds like spending money is something you are not really interested in doing. There are a lot of good early to mid 2000 year tractors that can be had for around 12 to 15 grand if you do a little bit of researching. If you go with a 4 wheel drive, 40 to 50 hp tractor you should have the power you are going to need and are used to. Having the 4 wheel drive will also help considerably when pushing or pulling snow vs the 2 wheel drive you have now. I also understand liking the geared tractors. My tractor is a shuttle shift and I love it. However, when I run my uncles (HST) tractor all day it is nice once I get used to it. I just think it is something you have to get used to.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'll pipe in on transmissions...try a reverser transmission. Plenty of gears to chose from (my Deere 4520 has 12 forward, 12 reverse) and it's real easy to operate the reverser lever on the dash. Since mine is a "Power-Reverser", I don't have to use the clutch...but I do...mostly out of habit (my previous 4400 (also a Deere) had a sync-reverser which did require use of the clutch to change direction).
Anyway, to me, a reverser is the best of both worlds...as easy to change direction as a hydrostatic...but less horsepower loss. Once in gear and the throttle set, no need to push any pedals.

As far as the tractor itself...I'd look at a Deere 4520, since that model has a reverser transmission. The 4720 has only an HST. The post 2009 models have 66 engine HP, IIRC. PTO HP is right around 50, give or take 1 or 2 HP. Pretty solid machines.

As far as a cab...well, I'm in Vermont and the winters are cold...mine has a cab (which is one reason I bought it...two winters in Vermont with an open station machine was enough for this old man). Loudoun County, Virginia...I'd forego a cab. It gets cold...but not a frigid cold (like minus 15 to 20).

 

[mvoght]

Another search for me. Tier 3/4 and tractor emissions.

I bought this one used in 2004. Might be time to bump up a few years and go used again. I like to mentally amortize out my costs. So, if I sell it, I'll take the difference and determine how much I spent, per year, on the tractor. It has all new tires (replaced all 4 in the past 2 years).

I spend more time mowing and dragging than I do using the FEL. I also should count in the time I spend back/forth with a blade pulling down the arena edges once or twice a year.

I do enjoy this forum and appreciate all the answers.

 

[N2DFire]

The JD with the HST would have required "cruise control" to do the same thing. Or else I would have to press the danged pedal the entire time to mow. And since it is about 8 hours of mowing to do my entire farm, I'm not really wanting to spend that long holding down a pedal.

Is this the way it is now? HST requires cruise control if you want to not push the gas pedal?

Again I will preface this by saying I've never operated a HST (other than my lawnmower) but in my mind - When you're mowing setting cruise control on a HST isn't that much different than pulling the hand throttle on a gear model.

Gear you set RPM via throttle & ground speed based on range / gear selection & Hydro is RPM via throttle & ground speed via Pedal or Cruise selection. I can see how the user input would take some getting used to but really it's not that much different when you think about it.

For me I have some tight places to mow so I see the advantage of being able to keep engine & PTO RPM up and vary ground speed (or even direction) via HST. Which is why I also loved making the jump to a 2 stage clutch over the old ground speed PTO on the 8N - at least I can clutch to change gear / direction w/o killing the PTO.

You already hit the nail on the head though - bottom line is you're going to have to test drive and see what feels right for you.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I have owned a New Holland Workmaster 50 for almost a year now and with almost 100 hours not one issue. It is a mechanical shuttle shift, front wheel assist unit with a 621 FEL. You have to clutch it to work the shuttle where as with Roy's power reverser no clutch needed. The Workmaster is around 5K pounds. With loaded rears and FEL it is over 7K pounds. Tier 4 with no DPF or regen mode. So far it had been a good tractor. I have very good dealer support.

 

[gwstang]

Are you looking at getting into hay equipment? Those round balers eat up horsepower like crazy. Might want to look at getting something 2 or 3 years old with more HP.

 

[mvoght]

I am not going to do any haying, I realized a long time ago, that hobby hay farming was an excuse to have lots of expensive ag equipment...and that I could probably buy my hay for the next 30 years...and break even....or come out ahead!

On the Case IH 585, the PTO is either on or off. The clutch does NOT disengage it, which I had not realized when I first got it, my prior tractor had disengaged the PTO when the clutch was in, I spiraled a PTO shaft when I engaged the PTO at high engine speed! That was an expensive mistake. Gives a person a very healthy respect for that PTO power.

An update...I had the dealer do a service, he said it was going to be about $2700 to fix it all up, including the badly sticking transmission. Having done research on new tractors, I decided to fix it up. They got it done, and returned it.

They did WAY more than I thought, so I need to see the invoice, that hasn't arrived yet. New seat (the one on there was terrible, I'd put a plastic shavings bag to keep moisture away and a saddle pad on it before I'd drive it), new knobs where many had been missing on the levers. The transmission fluid is so clean I can barely see it, the oil is clear, all new filters. It even looks like the plug for the engine block heater is new wire. I sure hope that they had included all that in that estimate, since I did not ask for detailed itemization, just approved the work with the biggie being the transmission and doing a full service.

Tractor sounds much happier. I will say, the engine oil pressure light is coming on after a couple of hours mowing, but another search found that there is a part I can probably replace, as I don't think it is having any actual mechanical difficulties. I may call and talk to the dealer, since they just did a ton of work on it.

Next step, some shelter for the poor thing. I'm obviously keeping it, need to get it out of the weather more often.

I am going to start test driving a tractor a year or so. I'll figure out the right size, and when the time is right, I'll look into a 20 year newer model!

 

[mvoght]

OK, the bill came for my tractor repair and it was $750 less than the estimate! Including that expensive new seat.

I'm very pleased with the local dealership on this!

 

[Gary Fowler]

Sticker shock is not just for cars, new tractor prices make your heart stop for a moment also. The other tractor sticker shock is the price of 3-5 year old used tractors with some prices near new (or perhaps the same price as the used tractor cost when originally purchased)which is ridiculous.

I am glad you got your old machine fixed up. Now you may just need to look for a second used tractor to supplement that one.

 

[TheMan419]

I am 6'7" so I have the same problem you do. Things just don't fit me. The only solution I have is to go test drive.

MF's SCUT was way too small for me. I just could not get comfortable on it. Given you are looking for something to accommodate your small size that might be one to look at.

I found even with a USEF discount green paint is pricey.

Also see if the dealer will bring it out to the farm so you can see how it does getting down your barn aisle and into your pastures with the bush hog attached.