Which mower for pushing snow?

Youngtractorman · Oct 16, 2005

I have the choice of two different tractors to push snow with. One is a John Deere 175, hydro,14 HP Kawasaki. It seems to have a low center of gravity to it. I also have a Simplicity 5212.5, hydro, 12.5 HP Briggs twin cylinder. The Simplicity is a larger mower, but it has a light rear end and will easily spin. The Deere has a smaller tire.

My Questions.

Which one?

I have tractor tires for the Deere. Do i change the rims and out them on, or would chains be better, or both?

Single cylinder or Twin?

What is my main problem(s) going to be with pushing snow? I won't be pushing more than 6" at a time. I won't be opperating in sub zero temps. I will be on a slope, but the road dept pushes and salts me a way back up. Do i have to seriously worry about flipping or causing injury? Do I need to try to pre heat the engine via heating elements around the engine? Do I need to let the engine run before I start working?

I know I have a lot of questions. Please answers which ones you know. I am interested in everyones oppinion. Thank You!!

jcmseven · Oct 16, 2005

I cannot answer which one would be "better" but I can say that both machines will be traction limited, more than power limited. I would not say the twin will do better than the single. Since both these machines are pretty small, here is my suggestion: forego the bar tread tires, and get a set of chains, they make a world of difference in a small machine. Also, make sure you have proper ballast to operate a blade or blower. For machines this size, about 100-150 pounds should be enough. This can be in the form of loaded tires and/or wheel weights. It can also be in form of quick tatch weights that attach to the frame rails in back. I believe JD offers this on the machine you have, I am not sure about Simplicity. This will help performance alot. Ground clearance does not matter that much, so long as you are moving forward, only when you are backing.

John M

Youngtractorman · Oct 17, 2005

thank you. i will start looking for some type of weight for the machine. I have been looking for chains, but havn't seen any 18x8.50-8's.

How much do you think i should have to give for a used deere plow for the 100 series? I have seen them on ebay for over $100. Is that going to be the norm? How much for one used 3 times?

thank you again

jimmysisson · Oct 20, 2005

my experience is that the liquid doesn't really help with traction, though it does help balance a lifte front implement. Hang a bucket of sand on the back or something. And the chains are what you really need.
Jim

Youngtractorman · Oct 22, 2005

How would I mount wheel weights on the mower? It doesn't have any holes in the rim. Can i drill some while keeping the wheel strong enough? Where eould be the best place to add weight and how much? I'v got around 75+lbs of sand, and could try to cast some concrete weights if I knew where to put them. The problem is I don't know how much the rear metal can hold before bending. Anyone know?

Thanks,
Youngtractorman /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

jcmseven · Oct 23, 2005

Personally, I would not add weights before adding liquid ballast in the rear tires. They will not hold a lot, but probably would get you 60-70 pounds total in the back. As noted by another poster, weight alone offers little benefit unless the tractive forces are present to utilize it. This is why tire chains are so helpful, BUT if you have both a little extra weight and tire chains, you can move a lot more, especially on grades, because you are ballasting the machine with regard to a front mounted implement. This has special meaning in a smaller machine, because they generally are very light to start. Your local tractor dealer or tire shop could do this for you at a very low cost. I would try this before drilling, etc, to mount wheel weights. Your frame should be strong enough to hold 75-100 pounds of ballast say in a ballast box or bucket. Some companies even offer a polyurethane bucket attachment to run removable ballast. John Deere is one of them.

John M

Youngtractorman · Oct 23, 2005

I will be opperating on primarily downward grades. There usualy is an already cleared path back up created by the county road dept. Will chains help traction on ice? How much? What kind of chains do i need, or does every type give the same amount of traction? Do I really need fluid filled tires? If so, how much should they cost? The seat is right overtop the rear end, so that adds about 230lbs right there over the drive wheels. How much more will i need?

BigEddy · Oct 24, 2005

My experience - on a much larger garden tractor.

You need chains and REAR ballast. Forget about wheel loading and wheel weights you won't make enough of a difference to make it worthwhile - you need 100-150 lbs of weight off the rear of the tractor to counterbalance the weight of the blade out front.

The Reason - to be able to back up. Pushing snow won't be an issue. As you push, it tends to shift force onto the rear wheels, increasing traction. But when you nose down off the edge of your drive, then lift the blade to reverse, all the weight is off the rear wheels, and you won't go anywhere unless you have that weight hanging well behind you to keep the rear planted.
You say you are going to plow downhill. That's actually worse - as you are now forced to back up-hill.

With Chains and weight off the back - you should be fine. The secret is to get the snow moving and keep it moving.

Youngtractorman · Oct 24, 2005

I'm going downhill most of the time, but there is a small parking lot I can swing into and i could swing into the road if i had to. i could then go forward up the hill and turn around at the top again. Now i need to know how to add that amout of weight without bending something.
Thanks

Youngtractorman · Oct 29, 2005

This morning was almost subfreezing(33.8F), so i decided to try to start the mower. It was slow turning over. What would be causing this? Is the stater geting the same amout of power, and the engine is slow or what else? I just was trying to turn the engine over, not start it.

I belive the engine has 10w40 in in. Would it be worth it for me to change the oil to a thinner one if there looks to be nothing wrong with the old oil? I ordered 7 heating strings about 27" long that are "too hot to hold onto" when warm, and a heating pad i can put around the engine. Would this help anything? I shouldn't be starting it under 18F(my limit) unless an emergency. The problem is I don't have a garage. I have a carport, but that is it. I can buy a big lot of old clothes somewhere and put around the engine to help insulate before starting, but only if it would help. I heard about a heated dipstick, but the only one i can find is one for large engine. What I am asking is what i can do? What do y'all do to start your engines when it is cold? Thank you.