Which Chain?

   / Which Chain? #1  

wmonroe

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I'm going to be doing a good bit of cutting this weekend and figured it would be worth having one or two extra chains on hand. I was looking at chains online and was confused by differences in what seem to be the same chain. I have a Stihl MS261 with a 16" bar with the .325 pitch chain. Looking online they offer 16" .325 chains with 62 or 67 drive teeth, shouldn't it be one or the other? I was going to buy a standard (non chisel) chain. Please help school me in what I should be looking for.
Here is a picture of the bar on the chainsaw.
 
   / Which Chain?
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Didn't upload for some reason, let's try again.

Edit....the picture won't upload, I'll try again in a little while, never had this problem before.
 
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   / Which Chain? #3  
Unbolt the clutch cover and remove the bar from the powerhead. Look at the info stamped on the bar. A compatible chain will have the same PITCH, GAUGE, and DL (number of drive links) as indicated on the bar, regardless of chain manufacturer.

Here are the common options for Stihl branded chain:

RS = full chisel, regular chain (yellow)
RS3 = full chisel, low kickback chain (green)

RM = semi-chisel, regular chain (yellow)
RM3 = semi-chisel, low kickback chain (green)

You can find the similar options in Oregon (Husqvarna) and other brands.

Note that if you have a standard kerf bar, you can NOT use narrow kerf (NK) chain on the bar. Oregon 95VP chain (Husqvarna H30) is an example of NK chain.

Me? I prefer full chisel, regular chain, so I buy Stihl RS (or similar).
 
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   / Which Chain?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks that is good info. Can a full chisel chain be sharpened with basic round files? I guess I need to read up on what "full chisel" really means. If I could get my picture to post it should show everything you mentioned.
 
   / Which Chain?
  • Thread Starter
#5  


Used photo bucket this time and it worked.
 
   / Which Chain? #6  
Another vote for full chisel.

Thanks that is good info. Can a full chisel chain be sharpened with basic round files?
Yes.
 
   / Which Chain? #7  
That picture tells me .325 pitch, .063 gauge, and 67 DL, so any chain with those three characteristics (except NK chains) will be compatible.

Just about all chains you'll see for sale are "round ground," meaning that you sharpen it with a round file (or round stones if using an electric grinder).

There are "square ground" chains that take different files, but if you need one of those, you are likely a professional cutter or saw racer and already know more about chains and saws than your average dealer. For the record, you can take a round ground chain and square file it--and vice versa. You lose a lot more metal (tooth life) when changing from one profile to another, but it can be done.
 
   / Which Chain? #8  
Just posted this in another thread, but full chisel only cuts better when it's freshly sharp. And unfortunately, it dulls quicker, and doesn't take much to compromise the cutting performance. If you are cutting dirty wood (on ground, or may have been rolled or dragged on the ground) you will be better off with semi-chisel, as it will hold up better and require less field sharpening. That improves productivity quite a bit. In my experience, it reduces the need to file by about 2/3.

The only time I use full-chisel is when doing mainly felling work where I know I will be cutting clean wood most of the time. Most of my pro saws come with a free loop of full chisel, and I run that until it's worn out. For replacement chains, I buy semi-chisel almost exclusively. It just has better real-world performance in my experience.

Full-chisel and semi-chisel sharpen the same with the same files.

As far as yellow versus green, the only time you will notice a difference is when plunge or bore cutting with the tip of the bar. If you aren't doing any of that -- i.e., mainly cutting along the flat of the bar -- you'll never really notice the difference between green and yellow, and can run green for a little extra kickback safety in cases where the tip might accidentally contact some wood. I occasionally have to bore out a tree, so I run yellow, but could get away with green about 90% of the time.
 
   / Which Chain?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks guys, that is very good info. I'm going to start with some semi chisel chains since the majority of my cutting will be tops left over from a logging operation and there will be a couple of using the saw at times. I did a lot of reading on chains last night and didn't realize how many options were out there, almost had myself talked into converting to 3/8 chain but decided to go with what I have.
 
   / Which Chain? #10  
Thanks guys, that is very good info. I'm going to start with some semi chisel chains since the majority of my cutting will be tops left over from a logging operation and there will be a couple of using the saw at times. I did a lot of reading on chains last night and didn't realize how many options were out there, almost had myself talked into converting to 3/8 chain but decided to go with what I have.

Yeah, the 261 will cut a lot better with 0.325, so stick with it.
 
 
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