Which brand to buy

[reelnative]

the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best

 

[adirondackmtnman]

the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best

I had a 2 350's and for occasional use, they might be an OK saw, but they don't hold up well to firewood production. They have a great, fast running motor, but if they're run too long without a good cool down, the plastic saddles that the crank bearings ride in warp, deform, and eventually the whole bottom end shakes itself to pieces. You'll know it's staring to happen when it revs erratically, due to the crank seals beginning to fail, but by then it's too late. I'd say, if the OP's looking for a good saw, my first recommendation is a pro-grade Stihl, or *gags* husqvarna. JK...The pro saws are made to run frequently and hard, and are more easily serviced/repaired. Brand doesn't matter to much, at that level they're all good saws, but find a good dealer whom you can develop a good repoire with, who's been in the business a while, and while you may spend more up front, you won't be sorry later. Just my $0.02

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[reelnative]

I had a 2 350's and for occasional use, they might be an OK saw, but they don't hold up well to firewood production. They have a great, fast running motor, but if they're run too long without a good cool down, the plastic saddles that the crank bearings ride in warp, deform, and eventually the whole bottom end shakes itself to pieces. You'll know it's staring to happen when it revs erratically, due to the crank seals beginning to fail, but by then it's too late. I'd say, if the OP's looking for a good saw, my first recommendation is a pro-grade Stihl, or *gags* husqvarna. JK...The pro saws are made to run frequently and hard, and are more easily serviced/repaired. Brand doesn't matter to much, at that level they're all good saws, but find a good dealer whom you can develop a good repoire with, who's been in the business a while, and while you may spend more up front, you won't be sorry later. Just my $0.02

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hahaha yea but hes been running a homelite so going from a homelite to a huski is like going from a broken push cart to the space shuttle

 

[adirondackmtnman]

hahaha yea but hes been running a homelite so going from a homelite to a huski is like going from a broken push cart to the space shuttle

True, but those old homelites were built way more stout than anything they've built recently. Keep in mind, his old saw was ~30 years old...

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[kenmac]

Back in the day, Homelite was what the loggers in my area used.. They were pro saws back then as was poulan

 

[LD1]

hahaha yea but hes been running a homelite so going from a homelite to a huski is like going from a broken push cart to the space shuttle

That may be true if he dont get a box store husky

 

[RobertN]

Interesting. All of our newer saws are Stihl. All of our Primary Engines also have Stihl circular saw. Our oldest circ saw is a Partner, which runs pretty good for being old.

the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best

 

[Bluegill2]

the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best

Get your hands on a 346xp and compare. Made from 1999-2012, replaced by the 550xp.

Oh and chainsaws don't have blades.

 

[EMS503]

Finally got a chance to open the side covers and remove the muffler, everything was clear no obstructions, but the piston what I could see of it through the exhuast port was burnt but the cyl. wall was clean. I am guessing that the engine overheated even though it wasn't running that long. I put it back together and cut down a tree that was maybe 2" in diameter and it ran like nothing ever happened. Tommorow I am going to push it and start cutting the bigger logs 6" to 8" diameter and see if it happens again. I am being told there are no new parts around anymore for this age saw. So if it happens again I will probably go out and buy a Husky. I wanted the Stihl but keeping getting told the Carb. is a pain as they have to be adjusted all the time and easily floods the engine.

 

[adirondackmtnman]

Finally got a chance to open the side covers and remove the muffler, everything was clear no obstructions, but the piston what I could see of it through the exhuast port was burnt but the cyl. wall was clean. I am guessing that the engine overheated even though it wasn't running that long. I put it back together and cut down a tree that was maybe 2" in diameter and it ran like nothing ever happened. Tommorow I am going to push it and start cutting the bigger logs 6" to 8" diameter and see if it happens again. I am being told there are no new parts around anymore for this age saw. So if it happens again I will probably go out and buy a Husky. I wanted the Stihl but keeping getting told the Carb. is a pain as they have to be adjusted all the time and easily floods the engine.

I'm not sure who's telling you that a Stihl's carb will need to be adjusted frequently, but they don't need it any more than any other saw. Most of the 'flooding' problems people have with them come from improper starting procedure, not incorrect needle adjustment. As long as your air cleaner and fuel filter are kept clean, spark plug is kept fresh, and the carb isn't gummed up, the factory settings should always be pretty close, with VERY infrequent and minor tweaks necessary. I've had my 362 for four years and never had to make an adjustment yet.

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