Tiller Which attachment for tilling turf?

[KB1JIM]

Greetings! I have a compact tractor and some former pasture with a tough layer of sod, that I'd like to turn into a 1/4-1/2 acre garden plot. I'd prefer to rent rather than buy. Can I accomplish this with a single implement? Harrow? plow? tiller? Do I need a college course? :scratchchin: Should I till in the fall or wait 'til Spring? Thanks!

 

[Baby Grand]

I break field sod with the King Kutter II tiller and it works fine.
I first cut the field short so I don't get long grass wrapping around the tiller spool.
Then I make a first pass, shallow, to chop the roots up and find any shallow rocks.
Then I make a deep pass to mix and bury the chopped up roots.
Then I let it sit for 2 weeks to decompose and let the weed seeds I've just exposed germinate.
Then I deep till again and it's ready for seeding.
Then I cultipack to get the seeds in contact with the soil and create a series of ridges so the seed doesn't wash away into pools if we get heavy rain.
We don't have many rocks, here, so others may have better advice if your soil is very rocky.

 

[jeff9366]

I break field sod with the King Kutter II tiller and it works fine.
I first cut the field short so I don't get long grass wrapping around the tiller spool.
Then I make a first pass, shallow, to chop the roots up and find any shallow rocks.
Then I make a deep pass to mix and bury the chopped up roots.
Then I let it sit for 2 weeks to decompose and let the weed seeds I've just exposed germinate.
Then I deep till again and it's ready for seeding.
Then I cultipack to get the seeds in contact with the soil and create a series of ridges so the seed doesn't wash away into pools if we get heavy rain.

A great plan for Connecticut, a great plan for Florida, but the OP is in MAINE, aka ROCKVILLE.

I think he is going to need to mow very short first, then plow, using a Chisel Plow, Moldboard Plow or Disc Plow (a Disc Plow is NOT a Disc Harrow), then commence with the tiller.

 

[KB1JIM]

The terrain here is hilly, glacial. Probably no shortage of rocks of all sizes lurking just beneath the surface. Old Maine farmer's joke; What grows best around here? A: Rocks.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

You might think about renting a subsoiler to break up the soil first. For only 1/4 - 1/2 acre, a single shank one will be sufficient (which is all your Max25 will handle anyway). I would make multiple passes in a checkerboard pattern. Then a chisel plow, moldboard plow or disc plow would probably do a better job of breaking it up.

If you have a lot of rocks, you will want a shear pin on the subsoiler and spring-mounted shanks on the chisel (what I would call a field cultivator) in case you hit some subsurface rocks.

Here is an example of the subsoiler with a shear pin:

Everything Attachments Subsoiler

 

[Baby Grand]

A great plan for Connecticut, a great plan for Florida, but the OP is in MAINE, aka ROCKVILLE.

I think he is going to need to mow very short first, then plow, using a Chisel Plow, Moldboard Plow or Disc Plow (a Disc Plow is NOT a Disc Harrow), then commence with the tiller.

Maybe you missed the last line of my post about local conditions - probably posted yours as I edited mine?
Most of CT is as rocky as most of ME, and I'm very familiar with glacial geology and how local conditions can vary radically just a small distance away. I didn't make any assumptions about the OP's local conditions, just stated what works for me and what my local conditions are.

In some places (Penobscot County) Maine soils are pretty nice for agriculture:
https://soilseries.sc.egov.usda.gov/OSD_Docs/P/PENOBSCOT.html

I been through the Desert (of Maine) on a horse with no name.

 

[jeff9366]

The terrain here is hilly, glacial. Probably no shortage of rocks of all sizes lurking just beneath the surface. Old Maine farmer's joke; What grows best around here? A: Rocks.

How deep is your fertile topsoil?

How deep would you run a Subsoiler or Plow without bringing up infertile subsoil?

 

[KB1JIM]

I've been a casual gardener over the years and all I know about the soil is what I've seen while planting half a dozen fruit trees and a small garden. I don't know enough to determine what's fertile and what isn't and I'll need in interpreter for that state analysis but it's good to know that information is there, and I thank you. I do plan on fertilizing as I go and removing what rocks I can. I think I have enough to go on, I suppose I'll start with the subsoiler and go from there. My goal, in a couple of years, is to have an acre or so of row crops and a small roadside stand for the surplus. Maybe even the local farmer's markets if all goes well. It's good to be retired! Thank you all for the advice, and your time.

 

[jenkinsph]

Enjoy your retirement:thumbsup:

I would also suggest you look into a greenhouse for a hobby. You can have a longer season plus have something to do out of the weather too.

 

[Jarrod32]

I break field sod with the King Kutter II tiller and it works fine.
I first cut the field short so I don't get long grass wrapping around the tiller spool.
Then I make a first pass, shallow, to chop the roots up and find any shallow rocks.
Then I make a deep pass to mix and bury the chopped up roots.
Then I let it sit for 2 weeks to decompose and let the weed seeds I've just exposed germinate.
Then I deep till again and it's ready for seeding.
Then I cultipack to get the seeds in contact with the soil and create a series of ridges so the seed doesn't wash away into pools if we get heavy rain.
We don't have many rocks, here, so others may have better advice if your soil is very rocky.

That's what I did...except I have a Deere 647 tiller.