Trying to install the WR Long 3rd function kit on my CK2610. The instructions with the kit talk about removing a steel line that runs from the loader valve to under the seat, but don't provide any pictures or descriptions. I don't see any steel line running from the loader valve to under my seat, but there does appear to be this line that runs from under the seat to the valve body for both sets of rear remotes. Is this the right one?
First let me start by saying that the older CK series (that I have) and the newer CKxx10 Series (that you have) are slightly different in how they are plumbed and it may be that W.R. Long hasn't updated their instructions.
I found out about this difference trying to help another owner add additional rear remotes in this thread
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/404013-confirm-im-doing-right-adding.html
You should give it a look over because the hard line that you should be replacing is the same one he did. It goes from your loader valve to the rear of the tractor (In my case it went into the rear transmission housing, in your case based on what I learned from that thread, it should go to your rear remote valve stack).
Looks like the flow is:
Hydraulic pump -> Loader control valve -> Remote valve body -> Three point hitch valve
You are correct. On my older CK series the "->" between the Rear Remotes and the 3 Pt valve is internal to the rear end housing. I am thinking based on your pictures and the other thread I referenced that on the newer CKxx10 series this connection is now external via hoses / steel lines.
The remote valve body has a formed rubber hose that connects at a tee with the loader control valve which returns into the side of the transmission case.
This should be the "Return to Tank" line for both valves dumping everything to the common tank/sump on the tractor and you shouldn't have to do anything with this line / port
I removed the steel tube between the remote valve body (on the "T" side) and the three point hitch valve that is underneath the seat.
I ran the new hydraulic line with the 90* elbow fitting up to the "T" side of the remote valve body, and then connected it to the solenoid block. Then I ran the new hydraulic line with the straight fitting to the three point hitch valve and connected the other end to the solenoid block. Now the flow looks like this:
Hydraulic pump -> Loader control valve -> Remote valve body -> 3rd function valve -> Three point hitch
Everything *seems* to work, but I'm waiting on my root rake grapple to arrive before I can really test it.
Generally speaking in the hydraulic world, the 'T" or Tank ports are not meant for the same high system pressure as the rest of the system. however given your set-up where they have a steel hard line that supplies full system pressure to the 3pt then I think you'll be ok there. The 3rd function valve block is good because it's all milled from a single piece of aluminum thus the T port will take the same pressure as the P port and the work ports (A & B).
Just to be clear on flow path, The line from the "T" port above should be going to the "P" port on your solenoid block, and the "T" port on the solenoid block should be going to the 3pt.
Due to the nature of "Open Center" hydraulics, without the solenoid valve being activated, the 3pt will still work normally
even if you have these reversed but the solenoid will be "backwards" (i.e. you energize for port A to have pressure and it will actually be Port B under pressure). I have no clue if this is "bad" but the logic for how a solenoid valve operates says it should be fine.
Typically the circuit is set-up like this instead.
Hydraulic pump -> Loader control valve -> 3rd function valve -> Remote valve body -> Three point hitch
I am by no means a hydraulic expert and I'm not as familiar with the specifics of your series tractor, but given what you have shared and with the provisions outlined above, I *THINK* you'll be ok.
