Where does resistance to steering happen?

[JCByrd24]

On my 186D with the loader off, and especially with the mower on back, steering is light and easy, but with the loader on, it's much tougher, and then worse with weight in the bucket. My steering gear seems fine as well as all linkage, etc. I can't quite tell from the manual, what surfaces carry the load from the knuckle to the axle and creates the resistance to steering? I want to check/service whatever it is as required. To me it looks like the metal on metal interface between the axle and knuckle at the bottom, which gets no grease when I put the grease gun to the zerk at the top of the end of the axle (kingpin on 2WD). Even if I jack up the front end so a gap opens up there, grease doesn't get down there, just pushes out the top interface between the axle and knuckle. Looking at the manual it doesn't appear there is a bearing or thruster washer inside that takes the vertical load, just wanted to check.

 

[magicheater]

On my 186D with the loader off, and especially with the mower on back, steering is light and easy, but with the loader on, it's much tougher, and then worse with weight in the bucket. My steering gear seems fine as well as all linkage, etc. I can't quite tell from the manual, what surfaces carry the load from the knuckle to the axle and creates the resistance to steering? I want to check/service whatever it is as required. To me it looks like the metal on metal interface between the axle and knuckle at the bottom, which gets no grease when I put the grease gun to the zerk at the top of the end of the axle (kingpin on 2WD). Even if I jack up the front end so a gap opens up there, grease doesn't get down there, just pushes out the top interface between the axle and knuckle. Looking at the manual it doesn't appear there is a bearing or thruster washer inside that takes the vertical load, just wanted to check.

Do you have POWER steering?

 

[JCByrd24]

Nope, obviously part of the problem, I just want to do everything possible in terms of greasing/servicing to what is there.

 

[Pete Judd]

according to the manual,

tire pressure to low
improper front alignment
tie rod bent
insufficient grease in gear box
recircuulating ball broken
improper tire are installed on front or rear axle
front drive train failure

 

[normde2001]

If it steers easily with weight off the front, and no serious slop in steering wheel, there's really no more you can do other than add weight to the back end to equalize. Compact tractors were just not designed for the added weight of a FEL. You don't, by chance, have the front wheels reversed for wider stance, do you?

 

[JCByrd24]

norm, I checked to make sure the wheels weren't reversed by previous owner, they don't appear to be. I built a counterweight the maxes out my 3PH a couple weeks ago and that helps a lot. I agree I don't think there is anything wrong, but was wondering if the grease passage was suppose to carry through to the lower joint between the knuckle and axle, as that would be where the friction would appear to take place, as opposed to the top joint, which is where all the grease ends up. A tapered roller bearing in the front end somewhere to support the weight instead of steel on steel would have done wonders for the non-PS models.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I'm not sure about your tractor but my old YM1900 has a sealed bearing on the bottom and a bushing on the top. The grease only needs to go to the top bushing which will wear quickly if you don't keep it greased especially with the added weight of the loader. Just got in a new set of bushings to replace them this winter. (I need to pay more attention to keeping them greased)! I also got a set of pivot pin bushing for the axle frame. Mine are showing a lot of slop. Hope I don't have to replace the mounts too.

 

[normde2001]

You keep mentioning grease and zerks, 4wd does not use grease , it uses 90wt oil. Pour it into fill hole and it should eventually work it's way into the lower end. If there are zerks there I suspect someone has probably added them into the vent holes because of oil leakage.

 

[rScotty]

On my 186D with the loader off, and especially with the mower on back, steering is light and easy, but with the loader on, it's much tougher, and then worse with weight in the bucket. My steering gear seems fine as well as all linkage, etc. I can't quite tell from the manual, what surfaces carry the load from the knuckle to the axle and creates the resistance to steering? I want to check/service whatever it is as required. To me it looks like the metal on metal interface between the axle and knuckle at the bottom, which gets no grease when I put the grease gun to the zerk at the top of the end of the axle (kingpin on 2WD). Even if I jack up the front end so a gap opens up there, grease doesn't get down there, just pushes out the top interface between the axle and knuckle. Looking at the manual it doesn't appear there is a bearing or thruster washer inside that takes the vertical load, just wanted to check.

Normally the vertical load on the steering portion of the front axle is taken by a matched set of tapered roller bearings inside that are on the ends on a vertical shaft (the tower bevel gears) - all this stuff is inside and between the steering knuckle. As things wear, I guess some of that load could shift to the knuckle you are trying to grease, but there not much.
What may have happened is that water can accumulate around the lower tapered roller bearing because it is the lowest place in the whole front end. I've seen that happen and it can corrode that lower roller bearing. If that happens you may feel roughness when steering. If you drain the front axle and get water out that could be diagnostic. Replacing the tapered roller bearings is not a difficult repair for a good mechanic. Do the axle seals at the same time.
good luck, rScotty

 

[svcguy]

Manual steering is a compromise with a FEL. I have never run a FEL that is not difficult to handle without power steering. You can modify any tractor for power steering, but it is much easier when they come factory ready. One key is to always be moving before trying to steer, arm-strong will not do anything but wear you out. The need for a full bucket is over stated, if you have manual steering, try a 1/3 or 1/2 bucket. You are always moving 10 times what you can by hand, so why stress the machine. A counter weight helps, but moderation is the answer.