What's best attatchments?????

[Fuddy1952]

This sounds simple, but expert advice is much appreciated. I bought a lot of attachments when I bought my JD tractor, glad I did because it makes it versatile.
There are three things I'm considering now, a box blade, landscape rake, rotary tiller.
I have backhoe and FEL, and want a small garden (just 1,000-2,000 sq.ft.), I want to put in a road through woods that's hilly), and I have areas needing grading/fill dirt.
Attatchments I have to weight use, cost, application, etc. I have areas that could flip a tractor and I've filled in a lot of sink holes already. A dealer yesterday said a box blade would do what I want and cheaper than a rotary pto tiller. I'm thinking rake would be handy for limbs and cleanup.
I have a Titan grapple that's nice, but I don't use much. Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[RNeumann]

I use may BB all the time for road building and road maintenance. That would be my first choice tool...

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Any attachment is the best working on what it was designed for. Match the attachmnt to the task. Example is a FEL is not as good as a BH for excavating. Gie us the task and someone or more will explain the proper approach. We all do a lot of different things.

Ron

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I have put in miles of trails using nothing more than a chainsaw, machete and a pair of hiking boots. Big trees I go around, small trees I cut down just below ground level. It’s easy and quick to cut with a machete and toss to the side of the trail, it goes really fast. Toss sticks as I walk.

My trails are usually big enough to drive a truck down. I haven’t made any trails to take a tractor down, I don’t plan to take my tractor in the woods, if I did I would prob clear it first then grade it with my box blade.

As far as a garden goes, I have always borrowed a walk behind tiller, it something I only use once a year and I haven’t been able to justify a 3pt tiller yet.

A big garden I could maybe justify it, but I like to play sometimes so I would prob do it old school with 2-3 bottom plough and disk, if I went that far I would get a 3pt planter and cultivator, I’m not a fan of chemical baths for weed control around gardens. But my tractor isn’t really suited for gardening and cultivating unless my rows were 36in apart, so I would prob buy a farmall cub for cultivating.

As Seabee said, many ways to do things.

I own a tractor with FEL, I have a bucket and a set of forks, I picked up a used rear blade, only recently I bought a box blade because I wanted to do serious driveway work and didn’t want to act like my FEL was a bull dozer, so I bought a attachment made for that kind of abuse.



After a lot of research I bought an American made product, I’m still happy with my choice. Used BBs in my area were $400-$800 for one the size I needed, so I figured if the market was that strong on them, I’ll just buy new.

Edit: BB is a 78in from Everything Attachments

 

[Fuddy1952]

That's what I'm leaning toward is a box blade. Today I've been bush hogging a couple pastures.
Pictures show areas where Bush hog scalped the ground, I had it set at 4".
I believe a box blade (owners will know the answer) will fix those areas, probably not a big deal. The big project is the road through woods. I held my camera level and you can see how steep it is. I'd like it to be level as possible and 6-8 ft. wide is ok.
One spot near creek I'd like to have a small garden. 20x50 or so.
I have another small tractor and trailer I'd like to be able to go through woods for clean up. Lots of areas I want to keep natural, like the raspberry patch I discovered.
Hills are ok and no problem with 4x4. I take them straight up or down no problem, even if it has like some areas that go down, out, then down again like a step. What I need to fix are the hilly ones with dips where it's easy to flip.

 

[oosik]

Well - I'm sure your situation is different than mine. We came down to the property here in Ea WA in '82. I have a 30 foot by mile long purchased easement to build my driveway. I walked the easement and immediately knew that I had neither the experience necessary to build nor funding to purchase commercial equipment to build the driveway. I hired a contractor to build the driveway.

My first tractor was a brand new 1982 Ford 1710 4WD. You do not build any kind of driveway with that piece of equipment. As a matter of fact - finally in 2009 - I upgraded to a brand new Kubota M6040 - one of its principal jobs - summer maintenance on my driveway. Still - you do not build a driveway with my 10,000 pound Kubota M6040. Maintenance - yes.

 

[Redlands Okie]

For leveling and filling and moving dirt around short distances then you need a box blade. Works great on drive and road maintence also. A bit wider than your rear tires, with teeth / rippers that you can move up and down. Buy as heavy as you can afford. In fact I will say buy heavier than you can afford. Very likely one of the first things your going to wish for is that it was heavier. The weight makes it dig better, operate better and less likely to tear up. Now its not required but hydraulic cylinders on the side of the three point is really nice and the same for the top arm of the three point. More money but sure makes the box blade easier to use. It’s hard to stress just how much difference the top and tilt features make.

Tiller is fine for garden work. Not a lot else. In dirt thats relative rock and root free it could loosen up soil that would allow your front end loader to then move easier for leveling up the place. Such a combination would be way slower than a box blade but it would work.

Landscape rake would be handy for fine tuning and leveling up loose soil and gravel and for removing roots and rocks. Not much else so would be last of the three for me to purchase.

 

[ninefinger]

Since I got a rollover ,maybe 10 years ago, my box blade has not been on the tractor. It just sits on concrete blocks rusting.

 

[kthompson]

There are lots of used attachments out there. Some are abused,broken and are junk. But there are many out there used and maybe rusted all over but good working condition at good price.