What type of steel for a new drawbar?

StuartDK45SE · Jul 9, 2018

I need a new draw bar for my 45 horse tractor, one that is straight and not offset like my current one. I think I can find a piece of flat bar stock online that is 1.25" thick x 2" wide. Do I need to look at anything particular? Hot roll? Cold rolled? I will take to a shop just down the street to get the holes cut in it. I know they used to do some tool sharpening and might can temper it if it needs to be. I'll be pulling a small round baler with it. Not sure what the tongue weight is. I would imaging less than 500 pounds.

Thanks

rd_macgregor · Jul 9, 2018

My DK45SC came with a straight draw bar. A few years ago it disappeared; I'm pretty sure it was stolen, but it could have fallen out somewhere and be waiting in the grass for me to find it with the mower.
I haven't yet replaced it because the OEM part seemed pretty expensive.
Did you SE have a draw bar that isn't straight?
Our local machine shops are not cheap; I think having one fabbed for me might cost what a OEM dealer replacement would.
Still, I'll be interested to hear what folks think a draw bar should be made out of.

StuartDK45SE · Jul 9, 2018

rd_macgregor said:
My DK45SC came with a straight draw bar. A few years ago it disappeared; I'm pretty sure it was stolen, but it could have fallen out somewhere and be waiting in the grass for me to find it with the mower.
I haven't yet replaced it because the OEM part seemed pretty expensive.
Did you SE have a draw bar that isn't straight?
Our local machine shops are not cheap; I think having one fabbed for me might cost what a OEM dealer replacement would.
Still, I'll be interested to hear what folks think a draw bar should be made out of.

I might call my dealer today. My tractor came with a drawbar, but it isn't straight. Oriented in the lower position, my baler doesn't sit level. Oriented in the high position I get interference with PTO shaft of the baler. I could find a piece of steel online pretty easy I think, but drilling holes in 1.25" steel would be a pain. I have a drill press but it is nothing special.

the old grind · Jul 9, 2018

No special metal or heat treat required. When we buy a new drawbar we're paying mostly for paint and holes.

Hot rolled or cold rolled is fine. We wouldn't want to harden and embrittle an alloy steel that might need a bit of give under anything but a purely tensile load.

btw, I'd plunge-mill any holes vs drill. I takes a lot less hp if you have the gear and/or have ever done both.

DaveOmak · Jul 9, 2018

1 1/4 x 2 x 36 ... 63,800 psi tensile strength..... 1018 steel with free shipping.... You could pull stumps with this bar..

Amazon.com: 1�18 Carbon Steel Rectangular Bar, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, 2" Thickness, 1-1/4" Width, 36" Length: Industrial & Scientific

CMV · Jul 9, 2018

Would be plenty strong. Look at the tube steel on your truck's receiver hitch and note how thin that is compared to a drawbar.

Wouldn't be afraid of drilling it myself either with just a medium sized drill press. Go slow, use some cutting oil. CRS is not difficult material to work with. That's also an application where I wouldn't be afraid to break the rule of "never use an endmill in a drill press" - you're not applying any lateral force, so a center-cutting endmill would make a nice clean hole for you. Or just step up a pilot hole with silver & deming drills to get there.

StuartDK45SE · Jul 9, 2018

Thanks to all. Yes, I tend to overthink things.

Thanks for the link DaveOmak. I'll measure again when I get to the house. I put a caliper on the drawbar itself and it was a tad under 1.25", but it felt like there was enough up and down slop available. I'll put a caliper on the frame itself tonight.

dieselscout80 · Jul 9, 2018

I need to make one too.

I bought a piece of 2" receiver hitch extension tube 36" long from Northern Tool. Now I just need to get busy.

Like this 24" one.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612682_200612682

Renze · Jul 15, 2018

I made one because i needed more load carrying ability than the 50 year old factory one. Took flat bar S355 80x20mm and welded another piece on top of it where it cleared the rear axle so it is stronger where it rests on the crossbeam, where highest bend strain is excerted

WranglerX · Jul 16, 2018

I found that boring "large" holes a lot easier with basic 1/2 drill motor and a "Bridge Reamer", they do not bind up like a standard drill bit and are safe to use in handheld... YEs Expensive... I did a series of 13/16 holes in some 1 inch stock and reamer never bound up or tried to yank drill out of my hands.... Seems a lot safer than standard twist drill....And dont need drill press... I actually got the 15/16 one and used a piece of PVC pipe as a sleeve to limit its depth to 13/16 for current project...