What RPM should you run a tractor at?

[Boria]

I have a new 1643. I was noticing in the owners manual that it says to run the tractor at 2450 rpm for the first 25 hours of breakin. This is in the green range on the rpm guage and where the pto spins at 540. My questions is--Should the tractor always be run in the green range on the tach? It runs good at 2450 rpm and the hydraulics function well at that range. I am just not sure if you should run in the green range all the time or are there times when the tractor should run at lower rpm's. Is it better for the diesel engine to run at 2450 all the time? I hope this makes sense.

 

[irvingj]

Boria, as I understand it, the reason for the high RPMs (when new) is to keep internal pressures high so rings can properly seat in a new engine. Part of the normal break-in procedure for a diesel.

Once it's broken in, you can use lower RPMs safely; I only run my engine high enough to do the job properly, for example. Hope this helps. irvingj

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Once it's broken in, you can use lower RPMs safely; I only run my engine high enough to do the job properly, for example. Hope this helps. irvingj

But avoid having it run for long times without much load or it might be subject to wet stacking.
Wet stacking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[RoyJackson]

You should go by the operator's manual.
My Deere manuals always state to use varying RPM...and, as tempting as it may be, DO NOT change oil until the break-in hours are done (50 hours for the Deeres I've owned). Now, in my case, two of the three tractors were broken in before I bought them.

After break-in, you use the RPM to suit the task...but I always run it at 1500 minimum...except when I'm using a PTO driven implement such as a mower. Then I run at PTO RPM.

 

[buickanddeere]

Don't expect to save any measurable amount of money or "save" engine wear by putting around lugging the engine. Lugging causes more wear than revving .
It's not a 24/7 heavy duty prime power application running irrigation pumps, electrical generators, pipeline compressors or ship motive power. So the long lived low rpm theory is mute and void.
Don't load the engine at rpms less than peak torque rpm .read your operator's manual but I would w.a.g. Peak torque at approx 1500rpm.

 

[RalphVa]

I'm with Roy. Think that's what the 2 manuals for my JDs have said to do. Best break-in is normal running, but not lugging any time and not constant speed for long periods during break-in.

Ralph

 

[Boria]

thanks for the info. I am doing what the manual recommends for the break in period. Although I am warming it up for about 5 minutes at 1800 rpm's before I start to use it.

After reading the manual, I got curious about how a tractor should be run. For example, I grew up using a 9N. The 9N was the first thing I learned to drive.LOL We would crank it up at about half throttle and let it warm up for a few minutes, then throttle it on up to almost wide open and start doing the job. There was no tach on the 9N so I have no idea what rpm's we were running it at. I believe the 9N was also a gas engine but I can't remember since that was forty years ago.

Since the manual said run it at 2450 for break in and that area on the tach was in the green, I was curious if I should run in the green rpm range anytime I was using the tractor under a load such as moving dirt, tilling, mowing, etc. I understand if I am riding or under no strain I can lower the rpm's.

I guess what I am really asking is if the tractor is under a load, is the optimal running rpm's in the green range on the tach?

I hope I am not overthinking this. LOL

 

[RoyJackson]

I guess what I am really asking is if the tractor is under a load, is the optimal running rpm's in the green range on the tach?

I hope I am not over thinking this. LOL

You probably are "over thinking" it a bit...but almost anyone with a new tractor (or other equipment) would do the same.
As far as running under load...as others wrote, you won't hurt the engine running at a higher RPM, but you can hurt an engine by too low an RPM (lugging).
I never run mine below 1500 RPM and more if necessary. There's only two times I reduce RPM down to a low idle...when engaging the PTO and when disengaging the PTO.
I don't know what RPM is in your tractor's "green" range, but you should be good to go in that range...just don't lug the engine!

 

[slider909]

I normally use 1500 RPM for regular usage. Go up a bit as needed, but at that RPM the tractor has enough power for just about everything.

 

[Gary Fowler]

My LS Manual said to break in the tractor under full load. This is what we used to do with new tractors on the farm also. The dealer usually would bring out a tractor that we were interested in for a demo and bring the largest implement that it would pull along with it. We would take a tractor with maybe 1 hour on the tach and hook it to a large ground engaging implement and let it rip WOT all day long. Never had any issues with any tractor engines and that is the way every farmer did it, no babying around at all. I think babying an engine is the worst thing that you can do to one on break-in. Outboard motors for boats have a very different breakin schedule than tractors that require variable throttle settings and never more than 5 minutes at a time on WOT. REAL PITA to break in a boat engine because you cant really load the engine up that much with the prop, but tractors are different animals.