What length rear blade for kubota L2501?

[jmt1271]

I'm about to buy a rear blade for my 2501. (4wd HST)

main use is for ditching and leveling. Would a 72 or 84 inch be better? My concern is when tilting it for ditching, being long enough.

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

Are your tires loaded or do you have wheel weights?

I had a John Deere 850 4wd gear that pulled my 72 inch blade but with difficulty. I now have kioti 2610 HST. Both machines have loaded tires but the kioti is heavier, so that has no problem with the 72 inch. I also run an 84 inch rake with no difficulty.

So long as you have the weight, you should be able to run the 84 inch and that way not have a wheels wider than the blade when angled.

 

[jmt1271]

Yes rear tires are loaded.

 

[s219]

I use a 72" on my L3200, which is just like your 2501 but with 7 more HP.

To cut ditches, you need a blade with offset and tilt (although you can get some amount of tilt with the side link).

 

[jmt1271]

I'm leaning 72 as well. Been looking at LP and also at EA 6 Way value blade. Seems the better option but 6 week lead time isn't ideal.

 

[oosik]

I really doubt that your tractor could handle an 84" blade that would be heavy enough to do much good. For ditching - you will need offset and angle. That puts any blade - way out there. Either the blade( 84" ) will not be able to handle this OR it will drag the front of the tractor around.

As my M6040 is currently set up - it weighs 10,100 pounds. I have an 1100# - 96" - Rhino rear blade. I have to take it easy when ditching. Too big a bite and my tractor front end begins to "loose direction". It can handle a 2" deep cut but due diligence is always required.

View attachment 598457

 

[jmt1271]

Agree. Think 72 is right option. Thanks

 

[FTG-05]

For my ~40 hp L4330, I chose the EA ED 8' grader blade. I wanted an implement to could reach out as far as possible, but the tractor could still work it.

I'm using it right now to reconfigure my road to improve drainage and drivability.

There are three ways to angle the blade with my grader blade:

- Angle the blade
- Angle the support arm
- Angle both

Right now I have the support arm angled out to the right with no angle on the blade itself. The blade is cutting and moving a pretty good amount of dirt from one side of my road (high side) to the low side

You can clearly see the ability to angle the support arm in this pic:

Good luck!

 

[Professor Marvel]

To cut ditches, you need a blade with offset and tilt (although you can get some amount of tilt with the side link).

YES THIS^^^

 

[lennyzx11]

My heavy Servis 72” offset and angle will stop my L3301 dead pretty easily when offset unless you have a very light touch on the 3 point and a not so aggressive cut. We are talking no digging just moving loose fill.