What is the best tools for grading a field back to flat land

[JimR]

i have about 6 acres of field that has been used for farm produce for many years. If you drive over this field East to West or vise versa it is smooth. If your travel North to South or vice versa it is like a washboard. We now want to make this field back into a nice easy to mow smooth field. What would be the easiest tools to use to make this project go along the fastest. The field is all weeds right now. It needs to be broken up.The edges of the planted areas all need to be lowered and graded to blend into the previous planted area. I already have a box blade, grader blade, rock root bucket and a landscape rake. The edges of the planting areas have really good sod that is going to need to be busted up to taper the edges of the field where it is slightly sunken down. Would it be better to rototill the entire area and then smooth it all out with a grader scraper? I could also have my friend till the entire field with his huge land plow setup and then I could smooth it out using ????? I have been reading about the grader scrapers and think that may be the best tool to flatten the ground back out. Would the grader scraper be the best tool to use to smooth out an area like this? Would rototilling the field be better than running a land plow all over it. I could also use my box blade to rip the entire field. Hopefully somebody has already dealt with this issue and can give me some advice.

 

[oosik]

I would mow the field to get the weeds as low as possible. I would recommend spray with weed killer or burn but don't know your conditions there. Have the neighbor til the entire field. Then a Land Plane Grading Scraper with scarifiers. Scarifiers set at their lowest setting - leveling blades, at least, inch and a half lower than the side skids. I have an 8' LPGS and it is a very easy "pull" behind my Kubota. It would be a piece of cake in a field already tilled.

The scarifiers will help bust up the clods and the following blades will level and smooth it out. Just keep going around until all the clods are broken down and the land is as level/smooth as you want.

 

[JimR]

I would mow the field to get the weeds as low as possible. I would recommend spray with weed killer or burn but don't know your conditions there. Have the neighbor til the entire field. Then a Land Plane Grading Scraper with scarifiers. Scarifiers set at their lowest setting - leveling blades, at least, inch and a half lower than the side skids. I have an 8' LPGS and it is a very easy "pull" behind my Kubota. It would be a piece of cake in a field already tilled.

The scarifiers will help bust up the clods and the following blades will level and smooth it out. Just keep going around until all the clods are broken down and the land is as level/smooth as you want.

Thanks for the advice.That was my thought also and probably the fastest way to get the job done.

 

[Mat4644]

Having access to a land plane would be nice. If not I've done several mowing close then just a disc pulling a 12 foot drag. Any areas needing bigger leveling was done with a box blade. And then follow-up with the disc and drag. Did several soccer fields as a free community service and they are still in use with no additional work needed on them over the years.

I've also used a box blade with a drag that is wider pulled behind for leveling. You'll still see contractors with a disc and an I beam drag doing the final leveling.

 

[jeff9366]

I have 6 acres of field that has been used for farm produce for many years.

If I drive over this field East to West it is smooth.

If I travel North to South it is like a washboard.

Disc Harrows are traditional field smoothing implements. The goal in harrowing is a smooth, level bed behind the implement.


A week after you spray, mow as short as possible: "scalp."

Few with Disc Harrows adjust them after putting them to use. If you first process the field two or three times (depending on the weight bearing on each of your disc pans) to loosen ridges, then adjust gang angles less aggressively in increments, the disc may meet your smoothing needs solo.

Shorter Top Link = more weight on front gangs.

More weight on front disc gangs throws dirt OUT. Use on ridges.


Longer Top Link = more weight on rear gangs.

More weight on rear/wider disc gangs gathers dirt IN. Straddle the swales.

The faster you disc the more dirt is moved.

As the field is smoothed, adjust hydraulic Position Control so disc is in lighter contact with the soil.

Your last past should be a moderate speed, pans sunk 2" to 3" in soil, front gang adjusted moderately, rear gang adjusted less aggressively than front gang, but not "straight", weight distribution about equal between front and rear.


MORE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ing-three-point-hitch-mounted.html?highlight=

 

[Egon]

Get the friend to till it up and break it down and then pull a beam (wood, iron, whatever ) that’s hooked up at an angle across in various directions till you are happy. Finish off with your landscape rake.

 

[CADplans]

Moisture content of the soil will dictate the results as much as implement choice,,
I have a VERY heavy land plane,, but, if you try to pull it when the soil is dry, you might as well scrape concrete with a soup spoon,,

So, around here,, time of year is as important as implement,, spring being the best,, after the soil warms up, but, is still damp.

Summer will work too,, but, you have to "catch" the right time of soil moisture,,

AND, remember, if the soil is too wet, there will be more ruts AFTER leveling,, than before!!

 

[GLyford]

Central MA has a lot of different soil types (my street has completely different soil from the next street over) but if it was previously used for crops it shouldn't be horrible to work with.

If more sandy, then darn near anything will work. If heavier with more clay, then judging moisture might take some trying and retrying until it has hit a "sweet spot" that works well with your tools.

I think your current game plan is solid, just don't be afraid to let it dry out and/or wait for rain as you work it to see what works better for you. A week or two's wait one way or the other might save you some frustration, but the best way to know is to just get on it and start playing.

Don't feel constrained to work "square" with the edges or the current furrows, your best bet might be to work it at angles to everything already there, and especially to your previous pass over an area. Also, working in "half passes" rather than trying to smooth everything in the first pass can help.

 

[Mat4644]

With a land plane you still should either till or disc the ground before using. Chances are you will still be using a drag for the final finish if you want great results.

 

[oosik]

A lot of what you need to do the job and what you end up with will depend upon soil type and moisture content. You CAN do the entire job with a LPGS & scarifiers - if it does not need to be re-contoured. It will be a whole lot easier if the ground is tilled first. A rototiller can be used - but for six acres that will take a lot of time.

However, any LPGS WILL NOT move material from here to there. It's designed to flatten/smooth. Your box blade WILL move material. The entire project will go a lot easier if the ground is tilled first. Till - contour with the box blade - smooth with the LPGS.

Six acres is not going to be a "quickie" project. Take your time and do it right. Once you are finished - it will be "that way" until you have other plans.