what gizmo do I need for digging ditch

[RussMan]

I have a small tractor (30 HP Kubota). I also have a rather steep driveway, and I want to carve a small ditch alongside the driveway to minimize water running across it. I am thinking the ditch needs to be only about 4-6" deep but maybe 12-16" wide or perhaps it doesn't need to be that wide.

The question is what type of 3 point gizmo would I need to use on my tractor to help with this. I don't think I would have much success with my FEL given the driveway is fairly hard. I do have a blade, but not sure I can tilt it enough to carve out a ditch. It seems some sort of small ripper would work but I don't know if they make such a gadget. Any ideas?

 

[Dyer retired]

I have a small tractor (30 HP Kubota). I also have a rather steep driveway, and I want to carve a small ditch alongside the driveway to minimize water running across it. I am thinking the ditch needs to be only about 4-6" deep but maybe 12-16" wide or perhaps it doesn't need to be that wide.

The question is what type of 3 point gizmo would I need to use on my tractor to help with this. I don't think I would have much success with my FEL given the driveway is fairly hard. I do have a blade, but not sure I can tilt it enough to carve out a ditch. It seems some sort of small ripper would work but I don't know if they make such a gadget. Any ideas?

Russman,

You don't have a small tractor....I do,... BX1800, ha! I've got a 6 foot blade on the back of mine and can't imagine the friggin' around you'd have to do to dig a proper ditch with it. It's great for digging down into the driveway and smoothing that out, but would be way too much maneuvering to work a ditch with it. The other problem is that there generally isn't any down pressure on the 3 point drag bars, so you'd only get limited penetration with the blade....depending on the soil, angle and weight of the blade, etc. I'm anxious to see what other TBN'ers have to say about this, because I'm trying to find some cheap way to to work on some stumps...without spending $6,000 for a backhoe. Good luck. Dyer, retired

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

I ran across a gadget that might be perfect for your task. It was called a "Ditch Pro 60". Ditch-Pro - Reist Industries - Elmira, Ontario, Canada They are expensive new, but if you could find one used or similar product it might be perfect.

Picture a drainage swale between two houses - that's one of the tasks they are designed for.

 

[GilaSlim]

I just did a similar job with a B7800 and a box blade. Ran two shallow ditches about the size you specify across a one acre horse pasture. The pasture is irrigated, but not enough water was getting to the trees in the corners furthest from the ditch. Also have Top-N-Tilt. Dropped the right side as far as it would go, stuck it in the sod and started cutting. Multiple light passes did the job. Biggest problem was trying to take too big a bite. Several times I got three of the four tires slowly spinning on the grass. Bermuda can be pretty slick. Raised the blade a bit and off I went. Worked better than a straight blade - I carried most of the dirt to the end, then picked it up with the FEL and used it to build up the berms. Straight blade would probably cut more agressively, assuming you have the traction, but would require more clean up. Since you are cutting along your road, if you want to add the dirt to the road, the straight blade may be better.

GS

 

[Soundguy]

You could probbaly scrape out that small swale with a rear angle blade.

soundguy

 

[snoboy]

You could probbaly scrape out that small swale with a rear angle blade.

soundguy

I agree. I would think you could get creative enough to obtain drainage with a rear blade. Rear blades can be had for pretty cheap.

 

[Barneyhunts]

Maybe a middle buster would do the job for you.

 

[ToadHill]

I've kept my ditches running by driving the tractor along the length every spring and fall. The weight is enough to "ditch" the soft soil to about 5 or 6 inches deep.

 

[3RRL]

That's what I'd do...tilt that blade you got as much as you can and start cutting in that ditch.
I do it all the time with my boxblade.

 

[ctpres]

I've been digging and cleaning a 700' ditch thru woods for five years. So far best tools are: Subsoiler- two or three passes to define ditch, loosen soil and cut roots. Middlebuster to shape ditch and occasional cleanup. Shovel to remove dirt. Note: with top link and depth adjusted just right - middlemuster shapes bottom to match curve on shovel making cleanup easy. End result is a neat ditch twelve to eighteen inches deep and narrow enough to straddle with mower the entire lenght

 

[WarrenF]

Buy a ditcher....might be too expensive.....or you can purchase a large shovel for your middlebuster. You are not limited to the size of shovel that came with the purchase of your middlebuster.

 

[JoeL4330]

seems like a first order of business is to crown the road, boxblade or rear grader blade. There are more ditching options if you can straddle the ditch, but I can't so a rear blade with considerable offset is what I need. Just bought a landpride w. 30" offset and wider than my rear (wide turf) tires. But, I have a somewhat bigger tractor than you

 

[jaybrad]

I'm anxious to see what other TBN'ers have to say about this, because I'm trying to find some cheap way to to work on some stumps...without spending $6,000 for a backhoe. Good luck. Dyer, retired

Two thoughts:

1) Call one of the local rental places who will rent you an excavator over the weekend for ~$400 (including delivery and pickup), or

2) Be nice to one of your neighbors who may already have (or be getting) a backhoe.

The first will cost you a few bucks, but you can have the satisfaction of doing the work the way you want it done and on your own schedule.

If you decide to go with the second option, you will have to learn how to brew a decent cup of coffee, which may take more time than going the rental route.

You're welcome.

Jay

 

[dangerdoc]

I have a small tractor (30 HP Kubota). I also have a rather steep driveway, and I want to carve a small ditch alongside the driveway to minimize water running across it. I am thinking the ditch needs to be only about 4-6" deep but maybe 12-16" wide or perhaps it doesn't need to be that wide.

The question is what type of 3 point gizmo would I need to use on my tractor to help with this. I don't think I would have much success with my FEL given the driveway is fairly hard. I do have a blade, but not sure I can tilt it enough to carve out a ditch. It seems some sort of small ripper would work but I don't know if they make such a gadget. Any ideas?

I used to have a backhoe which was really the best tool for digging my ditches. You want a flat bottom on the ditch where grass can grow and stabilize the dirt.

Living without the backhoe, I've found that building up the road is easier than cutting a ditch. Use a blade to remove a few inches of material from the ditch if practical then get about 4 inches of rock dumped on that part of the road. Should work out OK.

 

[djradz]

All you need is your existing rear blade. Angle it as far as it will go (or maybe even farther, past the last pin hole) and also adjust the tilt on your 3-pt so that the leading edge is as low as you can get it. Most likely if your adjustment is on the left side, you'll lower it to it limit and also turn the blade so the left side of the blade it right up to the rear of the rear tire. Make sure it doesn't hit when all the up or all the way down. You may need some minor adjustment of the top link to fine tune the tilt of the blade. What you should end up with is sort of a "plow", except with out the ability to turn the soil over. Then make a pass, either putting the spoils onto the drive or off to the side, depending on how suitable they are for driving base. After that, each pass you make, with the tires dropped into what you have already dug, will set you just that much deeper. You will quickly get to the point where you are leaning to a point where you don't want to go any further.

One nice thing with this method (besides using what you already have) is that the spoils are deposited well our of the hole. Not ideal if you were digging for drain tile or looking for a narrow trench, but if you want a ditch for drainage, almost ideal.

 

[Ford850]

All you need is your existing rear blade. Angle it as far as it will go (or maybe even farther, past the last pin hole) and also adjust the tilt on your 3-pt so that the leading edge is as low as you can get it. Most likely if your adjustment is on the left side, you'll lower it to it limit and also turn the blade so the left side of the blade it right up to the rear of the rear tire. Make sure it doesn't hit when all the up or all the way down. You may need some minor adjustment of the top link to fine tune the tilt of the blade. What you should end up with is sort of a "plow", except with out the ability to turn the soil over. Then make a pass, either putting the spoils onto the drive or off to the side, depending on how suitable they are for driving base. After that, each pass you make, with the tires dropped into what you have already dug, will set you just that much deeper. You will quickly get to the point where you are leaning to a point where you don't want to go any further.

One nice thing with this method (besides using what you already have) is that the spoils are deposited well our of the hole. Not ideal if you were digging for drain tile or looking for a narrow trench, but if you want a ditch for drainage, almost ideal.

djradz beat me to it. The angled rear blade does the trick. I have done is to form a ditch and also a long swale along a drive to catch water running off from a field. If you have the room, the swale works perfect making the sides and bottom wide and gentle so you can mow it. But back to the blade, by angling it, the leading edge will really dive in and make a clean cut. Once you open the ground with the first cut, each pass gets easier.

 

[djradz]

Ooops, I said left side, but I must have been turned around. My adjustment is on the right side, so I usually drop the right side and angle the blade to dig on the right and push to the left.