What Basic Tools Should a Newbie Own??

[miramadar]

Well, I might not be in too bad a shape after all. I've got sockets and wrenches. But you say I'll need metric stuff, right? I've got some...

I've got a gas-powered pressure washer that will do nicely to clean off caked mud. I don't have an air compressor to clean the radiator. Couldn't the pressure washer do that too??

I need to pick up a grease gun and I'll do the research to find the best grease. I want to pass this tractor on to my kids one day!

I might get the tires filled with liquid before they deliver it (should be tomorrow or Wednesday). There's a local tire service shop that does it for about $100 per tire.

What are shear pins? Are those the pins that hold the 3PT attachments to the tractor??

I've got a couple of very sturdy logging chains (about 10' each) that were my grandfather's. They should work nicely. I've already got plans to use them pulling small stumps out of the ground. I'm already studying of ways to weld some "ears" on the bucket so I can lift things with a chain. Do you guys have any pictures or recommendations of the best way to do this? What should I use to make the ears? I was thinking of welding a horseshoe to each side so I could run a chain through them. But I don't know if that would work. It would be great if these buckets already came with ears...

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[miramadar]

I just bought a pistol-grip grease gun and 2 tubes of Green Grease (synthetic) by Omni Lubricants. It set me back over $40 at Advance Auto Parts. Hopefully that's the "good stuff" you guys were taking about.

 

[JoelD]

Here is a link on bucket hooks.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/116067-looking-welding-advice.html

Good luck,
Joel

 

[greenmule]

I wouldn't use a pressure washer on my raditiator unless it was totally stoped up and air wouldn't blow it out,and than I would take it off,those fins will bend,stoping air flow,as a matter of fact when doing it with an air gun,you should keep that in mind.

Shear pin is a bolt on an implement that breaks first,so your tractor don't,think most brush hogs have them,mine does,my tiller has a slip clutch,post hole drillers have shear pins,etc,[gotta look in your implement book,they are on pto drive line where it connects to hog at u joint.]

 

[IslandTractor]

I'm late to this thread but would concur with metric crescent wrenches and oil filter wrenches. The points I would add are that you need up to about 32mm wrenches (think jumbo set to supplement a standard metric set) and also that you might want to buy several different style oil filter wrenches and then return the ones that don't fit or cannot be manuvered in the tight engine space. I now own about four oil filter wrenches (one works for CK20, one for DK40se and the others I never returned).

Regarding grease, there are any number of threads on that subject if you dare enter the oil and lubricants section on TBN. I settled for generic moly grease from NAPA or Tractor Supply. I'd also suggest getting some stainless steel spray cleaner and roll of paper towels (a Rick Wallace trick) to clean up all the grease that will inevitably get all over your clothes if you don't stay on top of it (I don't and have numerous ruined jackets, shirts, hats, shoes, pants as well as a po'd wife).

 

[miramadar]

Here is a link on bucket hooks.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/k...ng-advice.html

Good luck,
Joel

This one shows the clevis hook centered on top the bucket. That's a good idea. Would that better than putting a hook on either side? My brother has a welder. I'll get his input too.

What do you all feel about those slope-meters you mount on the dash? Is it worth getting?? I don't need a meter to tell me that my hills are steep...but if it will increase safety a bit, I'd get one.

 

[greenmule]

If you just follow your own tilt meter to begin with,you'll be fine,take it real easy and safe till you get used to your tractor and the ground you will be going over.But if it seems to side sloping don't go there,than as you get used to things,you'll know about where you can go and where you shouldn't.

 

[TBDonnelly]

This one shows the clevis hook centered on top the bucket. That's a good idea. Would that better than putting a hook on either side? My brother has a welder. I'll get his input too.

The reason you see many hooks at either end of the bucket is usually because the bucket is strongest near each end. Putting a hook in the middle usually takes some bucket reinforcement so as not to bend the top bucket lip. One thing to remember is that the lift capacity is measured from the pins where the bucket attaches so additional weight added to the bucket or infront of the bucket (ie:forks) subtracts from the weight the loader is rated to lift. It's a balancing act to add structual support without adding excess weight to the bucket.

Don

 

[IslandTractor]

The reason you see many hooks at either end of the bucket is usually because the bucket is strongest near each end. Putting a hook in the middle usually takes some bucket reinforcement so as not to bend the top bucket lip. One thing to remember is that the lift capacity is measured from the pins where the bucket attaches so additional weight added to the bucket or infront of the bucket (ie:forks) subtracts from the weight the loader is rated to lift. It's a balancing act to add structual support without adding excess weight to the bucket.

Don

1) Another reason that it is better to put chain hooks at either end rather than in the middle of the bucket upper lip is that the middle can be used for a grapple arm along with stiffening reinforcement. Putting a chain hook there means you'd have to remove it or forget the future addition of a grapple arm to the bucket which a lot of people find useful.

2) Adding weight ANYWHERE on the FEL will reduce your lift capacity. Don emphasizes that the further forward from the pivot pins the more capacity you lose but adding weight at or behind the pivot points also detracts from capacity. A QA adapter for example will detract from lift capacity as will a toothbar. Without doing the math I would guesstimate that a 100lb QA adapter mounted right on the pivot points would probably deduct about as much (100lbs) as a 50lb toothbar mounted 24 inches forward of that point.

 

[Kioti4me]

1) Another reason that it is better to put chain hooks at either end rather than in the middle of the bucket upper lip is that the middle can be used for a grapple arm along with stiffening reinforcement. Putting a chain hook there means you'd have to remove it or forget the future addition of a grapple arm to the bucket which a lot of people find useful.

2) Adding weight ANYWHERE on the FEL will reduce your lift capacity. Don emphasizes that the further forward from the pivot pins the more capacity you lose but adding weight at or behind the pivot points also detracts from capacity. A QA adapter for example will detract from lift capacity as will a toothbar. Without doing the math I would guesstimate that a 100lb QA adapter mounted right on the pivot points would probably deduct about as much (100lbs) as a 50lb toothbar mounted 24 inches forward of that point.

Guys, I was told adding a chain hook on the ends of the bucket would twist or tweak the FEL frame altogether causing long term damage to the entire FEL by having the load-lift-pull all on one side of the bucket. Having it in center would better distribute the weigh with no twisting preasure on the FEL frame. I was advised to only put them in the middle. Yes, adding the grapple would be a problem. I was given this advice by my local John Deere dealer\friend.