I'd personally bring the water up to a pressure tank at 50-60PSI with a pressure switch running the pump. This keeps the pump from cycling on every time you fill a glass of water. After the pressure tank put an inline chlorinator, and a 100-120 gallon contact tank.
Contact tanks allow the oxidation from the chlorination to react with bacteria, iron, and any other dissolved solids which causes them to precipitate to the bottom of the tank as sediment. This should be flushed as often as once a month depending on your usage and how much sediment your well typically produces (your water goes out of the top of the tank with pressure from the pressure tank and there is a flush valve at the bottom to remove the sediment). After the contact tank, the water flow should feed into a conditioner.
This is where things can be a little tricky. I advise sending some samples to some filtration places to test for what types of mediums are recommended. I personally like a mix of various filtration mediums, and have no preference over natural or synthetic (both are used in mine). Since your well was tested as consumable, pretty much any conditioner will work to remove the chlorine. Do some research on the powerheads used on the conditioners.
All the powerhead is, is a powered valve system connected to a timer, flow meter, or both. When a certain amount of time, water usage, or a combination of the two are reached, it backwashes the filter sending everything it has collected out to a floor drain or similar (same way the contact tank is manually flushed). What powerhead setup you want will be best determined by your water usage. Fancy ones monitor your water usage and have a timer. You set how often you want it to backwash, and you set it for how many gallons you want used before it backwashes. If the time comes to backwash, but you haven't used the gallons, you can have it set it to skip 1 or 2 of the backwash cycles. Simple ones just operate on a timer (which is what I have).
You can expect anywhere from 10 to 30 years on a decent conditioner as long as you have enough chlorine going into the system to keep it bacteria free (the point of UV treatments) and are getting enough "contact time" between the chlorine and water inside the contact tank. 120 gallon contact tank is generally enough for most households, though you can't have too much contact time killing bacteria and precipitating dissolved solids, so if you can fit a larger tank or want to run multiple contact tanks in series that can be done too. Another thing to remember, everything between the chlorinator and the conditioner must be plumbed with CPVC (the yellow tinted stuff). Plain white PVC will not withstand the chlorine.
This will give you water that is the quality of the average bottled water. Cleaned of bacteria like city water, but cleaned of the chlorine used to do that task also. Most of the powerheads allow a "bypass" feature that lets you occasionally run chlorine through your household plumbing to keep it clean and bacteria free (like the internals of your toilet). UV lights tend to lose their intensity and bacteria killing power somewhat rapidly. When I put my system in and had read on the subject, the intensity of the UVs put out by UV lights near half after a year of use and the contact time between the water and the UV lights in a high consumption household isn't near enough to kill 100% of the bacteria common to well water even at 100% intensity.
If you want to take it a step farther you can go into water softeners. Water softeners can reduce your overall water usage as soaps will suds up more and you'll use less, softer waters are gentler on fabrics when washing clothes and the detergents suds up more and remove stains better, water spots on washed cars are a thing of the past. Old softeners that used salt of some sort used to end up with some extra sodium in the water, which isn't the case with newer softeners. Newer softeners only use salt to clean the filtration media during the backwash cycles and no salt ever enters your home. These systems use very little salt also.
Some people do not care to drink softened water (I am one), and for those I recommend a point of use reverse osmosis system that goes under the sinks you will be getting drinking water from. At this point you have the purest water that can be had.
If you research it all out and plan well, a system should be low maintenance and last well over 10 years before needing any repairs or replacements and when you calculate the cost of a good system out over a timespan like that, it is much cheaper than a city water bill for much better water.
