Well it lasted 2 1/2 years: Bushhog 286 Output Shaft Repair

[Zebrafive]

You are right not to assume. Both the PTO shaft and gear box could have been swapped and the deck would still have a 287 tag. I am not sure if gear boxes have tags or not.

I got a great deal a like new Bush Hog 297 from a John Deere dealer. They took it in on tractor that was traded in. The salesman said they wanted it off the lot, so they only had JD brand to sell.

 

[FTG-05]

Looking at another used cutter, this time a Howse. Howse says the cutter has a "Category 6" driveshaft series. I *assume* that means it's a standard 1 3/8" 6 spline PTO-type driveshaft?

I also found this info on driveshafts on Tractor-data: TractorData.com - Power Take-Off Types

 

[Stone Jones]

I wish someone made weld on stump jumper splines. I own 2 BH 287 cutters with the exact same issue as yours had. Box splines are in ok shape, stump jumper splines are destroyed. Thought about welding them but was afraid it would leave me hanging in a bind.

 

[LD1]

I wish someone made weld on stump jumper splines. I own 2 BH 287 cutters with the exact same issue as yours had. Box splines are in ok shape, stump jumper splines are destroyed. Thought about welding them but was afraid it would leave me hanging in a bind.

Unless I am not understanding what you are looking for, they do make splined hubs that can be welded onto a stump jumper bar.

Most people normally buy the whole assembly though as they lack the ability to weld and weld it true.

Unless there is something odd about the 287 that I am missing....a new stump-jumper assembly for ~$150-$200 seems like a cheap way to get a 287 back up and running rather than letting it sit and rot

 

[LD1]

Looking at another used cutter, this time a Howse. Howse says the cutter has a "Category 6" driveshaft series. I *assume* that means it's a standard 1 3/8" 6 spline PTO-type driveshaft?

I also found this info on driveshafts on Tractor-data: TractorData.com - Power Take-Off Types

NO.

Category (or series) 6 just refers to the shaft itself.

Obviously a shaft made to go on a 120HP bushhog gearbox, or a 6' roto tiller has got to be significantly heavier duty than a shaft that goes on something like say, a 5' finish mower, or a fert spreader.

So they have to come up with a way to let you as the consumer know how heavy duty a PTO shaft is. Lighter duty ones use smaller u-joints, thinner tubing, etc. Heavier ones have bigger joints and heavier shafts.

It used to be weasler sizes. 6n, 12n, 35n, 44n, etc. And how "heavy" a driveshaft was never used to be used in literature as a selling point. You simply trusted the MFG to put a sufficiently heavy shaft on it to handle the power. And when time came for replacement of u-joints or whatever, you simply measured them with a caliper and determined weather you needed a 35n joint or a 44n joint.

Then came metric shafts, and using it as sales literature to make you feel good.

In sort of a way they have standardized it into "series" or "category". Higher the better for strength.

This is a handy chart PTO Basics | Agri Supply Blog | Agri Supply

The reason higher RPM shafts can handle more HP is in reality it isnt the HP that kills a shaft. Its the torque. (and hp is just torque over time). So "technically" shafts have a maximum TORQUE rating. But if you can apply that torque at a FASTER rate....you can deliver more HP.

Series 6 is good for 64HP @ 540 where as it can deliver 100hp at 1000RPM.

Based on the bushhog part number for the u-joints in the shaft for a 287....it looks like it used a series 6 driveline for the 287.

Is yours the bushhog gearbox or the omni box that bushhog used. (serial number break).
If its the bushhog box....it looks like messecks can get the output shaft for $215. If thats all that is broke on yours and the gearbox is in otherwise good shape....for me it would be a no brainer and Id be replacing the shaft rather than trying to find a donor mower for parts

 

[FTG-05]

Unless I am not understanding what you are looking for, they do make splined hubs that can be welded onto a stump jumper bar.

Most people normally buy the whole assembly though as they lack the ability to weld and weld it true.

Unless there is something odd about the 287 that I am missing....a new stump-jumper assembly for ~$150-$200 seems like a cheap way to get a 287 back up and running rather than letting it sit and rot

Agri Supply used to sell 15 spline weld on blade hubs; I bought one when I first had this problem with my 286 2 1/2 years ago. Still got it around here somewhere. I don't see it on the AS site anymore.

Bushhog/Messicks for 286/287 stumpjumpers are north of $500.

Agri Supply on the other hand: $140 plus shipping. Rotary Mower Blade Pan 15 Spline, Stump Jumper | Agri Supply

 

[DieselBound]

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listin...rotary-mowers/manufacturer/bush-hog/model/286

Not sure if there's anything here that Messick's doesn't have (or is priced differently), but:
BUSH HOG Parts For Sale » White's Farm Supply

Note to anyone with one of these: ALWAYS check for wobble on the stump jumper assembly. Seems to be commonplace that they develop a bit of play/slop and that this can only be overcome by adding an additional washer under the castle nut. I had this experience and, fortunately, managed to stave off catastrophic failure.

I got my 286 for $800. Horribly beat up: plate steel welded on top of the deck due to it being torn up. PTO shaft blew out right away. Tail wheel broke: repaired with superior gusseting. As hammered as it was the gearbox still seems fine (and I don't baby stuff).

 

[FTG-05]

Found a fairly nice BH 286 on the side of the road today, lined up with some other implements. Since no one was home, didn't find out the price. PM if interested; SE Giles county TN.

 

[FTG-05]

And the hits just keep on coming.... I can't seem to catch a break here.

It's another good news/bad news kinda story:

The bad news: I found a replacement gearbox today. I had to drive 2 1/2 hours to get it and it cost me over $2200. As it turns out: There is no way it will replace and/or fit into the Bushhog 286 gearbox/rotary cutter.

The pics tell the story better than I could ever do:

Sharp observers will note that this replacement gearbox uses a 4x3/4" mounting template. This, of course, is entirely incompatible with the Bushhog 286 110 hp gearbox, which uses a 6x3/4" mounting template.

I'm totally hosed - again! FML.

 

[LD1]

And the hits just keep on coming.... I can't seem to catch a break here.

It's another good news/bad news kinda story:

The bad news: I found a replacement gearbox today. I had to drive 2 1/2 hours to get it and it cost me over $2200. As it turns out: There is no way it will replace and/or fit into the Bushhog 286 gearbox/rotary cutter.

The pics tell the story better than I could ever do:

Sharp observers will note that this replacement gearbox uses a 4x3/4" mounting template. This, of course, is entirely incompatible with the Bushhog 286 110 hp gearbox, which uses a 6x3/4" mounting template.

I'm totally hosed - again! FML.

WHat is that cutter? You spent $2200 on a cutter that you were gonna take the gearbox off of and render it useless?

1. Again why not just get a $200 shaft to fix your old one? What am I missing?
2. Why not leave the cutter intact. You just spent $2200 on it, I am sure it is in ready-to-mow condition