Well… that was stupid…

   / Well… that was stupid… #11  
Ouch, sorry to hear that.

If your interested in safer type of saw there is a brand of table saw called "SawStop" when it detects a something like a finger it immediately stops the blade by slamming an aluminum block into the blade. I think it senses something conductive and the blade is destroyed. Not cheap, but then again, what is a finger worth?
Saw those it destroys the blade also, around both my old gaurdless table saws I have homemade push sticks everywhere. I usually just use a skill saw for most ripping anyway.
 
   / Well… that was stupid… #12  
Wow the motor too! I thought it was just the blade.

I'm going to fact-check myself on that. Woodworker friend checked them out years ago and that was the story. I'll see if there's been improvements . . .


*******************

Correction to above -- Looks like activating the safety stop feature requires replacing a brake module for about $120 and "maybe" the blade. Motor is NOT affected on current units. That's MUCH better.

My bad . . .

Interesting though, as I was reading their FAQ, it mentioned that cutting wet or green wood could activate the system. There's a warning light that tells you if the material is "conductive" and you can choose to run it in "BYPASS" mode if you want to avoid activating the brake. Another safety to bypass / defeat . . .
 
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   / Well… that was stupid…
  • Thread Starter
#13  
…I usually just use a skill saw for most ripping anyway…
I was ripping a 2x4 when the accident occurred…

Have you ripped something as narrow? Care to share any tips? (I’m not sure how to balance my circular saw on it)
 
   / Well… that was stupid… #14  
Well for me it prevents me from trying to use or repair it anymore. I repurpose a lot of stuff, sometimes I've had enough of something to the point of complete destruction.
 
   / Well… that was stupid… #15  
Sorry for you and the accident you suffered. Accidents happen with any tool, powered or not. Safe operation and knowing the correct use of them is important, which I know you knew as it took this long to incur the accident. The accident happens usually due to a shortcut in proper procedures or lack of maintenance to the tool.

Safety improvements try to prevent us from having accidents, but they can still occur. One device that is a tool for table saws and radial arm saws is a simple pusher that can be made out of wood, but again, when we get in a hurry and shortcut doing something like this, the accident occurs. Don't beat yourself up!
 
   / Well… that was stupid… #16  
I was ripping a 2x4 when the accident occurred…

Have you ripped something as narrow? Care to share any tips? (I’m not sure how to balance my circular saw on it)
I've put my hand on the saw deck and use a finger as guide please don't attempt if you either don't completely understand or intimidated by using a skill saw. I used to be a rough framing carpenter.
 
   / Well… that was stupid… #17  
I was ripping a 2x4 when the accident occurred…

Have you ripped something as narrow? Care to share any tips? (I’m not sure how to balance my circular saw on it)

I don't think the table saw is the wrong tool for this . . .

Somewhat depends on how long it is, but basically I'd just use featherboards to keep it lined up with the fence and push it through with push-sticks and/or push-blocks. Don't get your hands anywhere near the blade. Keep the guard in place so the spreader can help manage the kerf and you have some kick-back protection. Also helps you stay focused on exactly where the spinning blade is.



If you want to rip with a circular saw, lay 2 or more 2x4, 2x6, whatever, down side by side and let the shoe of your saw lie flat on those. Don't try to balance it just on the one. (A lot of saws have a handy little (not-often-used) L-bracket that slides into guides in front of the saw and you can hang that over the edge of the peice you're ripping. Helps keep you straight and it's easier than fooling with clamps and a long straight-edge. (It's a portable fence that clamps right on your circular saw. See if you might already have one.)

Just my 2 cents . . .
 
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   / Well… that was stupid…
  • Thread Starter
#18  
My old (second-hand) saw doesn’t have a guard, or a splitter… the only thing protruding out the top is the blade (and the fence)
 
   / Well… that was stupid… #20  
My old (second-hand) saw doesn’t have a guard, or a splitter… the only thing protruding out the top is the blade (and the fence)

In that case, the suggestions above refer to your NEXT saw which I'm sure will have guards!
 

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