Welding onto the ROP

[JimMorrissey]

I want to easily attach and detach (if broken) some lights to my ROP. I don't want to drill it, but welding some fairly thin metal to it doesn't seem like the end of the world. I can then attach my light to the welded hangers. Can anyone give me a good reason why not to......aside from some legal reasons. Will the heat compromise the integrity? I kind of doubt it, but I'd like to hear your thoughts.

Thanks, Jim

 

[Mike_Dumond]

Jim, if not done right, the welding will weaken the ROPS. If you really need to have it done, find a certified welder to do it. It's not worth taking a chance. Oh, and drilling holes also weakens it a bit, but not nearly as much. Depending on the size of the hole. Just my $.02.

Keep the greasy side down.
Mike

 

[jims5acr]

I have thought about doing the same thing except I was going to drill very small holes and use self tapping metal screws, maybe 2 per light and put on 2 lights. Anybody added any lights?

 

[rbargeron]

To answer your question directly, either welding or drilling is ok. I drilled and tapped my ROPS to attach work lights (tubing is about 3/16" thick).

I have also gotten my ROPS modified - had it shortened it a couple inches so it would clear 90" door heads - this involved pretty extensive cutting and re-welding so the fender flange spacing was preserved. With some material addition and good welding prep and technique, the ROPS is stronger now than it was before.

On my Kubota tractors the ROPS tubing material is not hardened - it cuts and welds like a regular low-carbon steel, with no unusual sensitivity to welding heat. The material is steel tubing with decent strength properties, but not exotic.

From some experience I have in stress analysis, drilling a 3/8" diameter hole in the middle of any flat surface of a ROPS would have no measureable effect on its strength.

Regarding liability for mods to a ROPS, life's too short to worry about it. If you make a home-grown folding one, you can expect some legal hamsters to yammer if there's an incident where it collapses - but they will anyway. The real function of a ROPS is to keep the tractor off you in a rollover. They are very strong and not made of glass - welding and drilling within reason is ok.

 

[Bird]

Jim, I'm sure you know the manual says to not drill, cut, weld, or modify because of "product liability." You might weaken it (or you might not). Just as long as you understand that if you turn the tractor over and the ROPS collapses and you want to sue the manufacturer, you have greatly weakened your case./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif And I think you understand the situation. I drilled 4 little quarter inch holes in the ROPS on my last tractor./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

Bird

 

[Oscar]

Jim,

I just added work lights to my L3710. I toyed with many different options, and read through many posts on different suggestions of how to mount work lights. There were a lot of good ideas. I was tempted to drill holes in my ROPS but after seeing how some other people mounted their lights I decided to mount my lights using square U bolts a two pieces of 2" angle iron. It turned out to be much easier and if I decide to remove them in the future I am not left with holes or ground off welds. The wiring was simple also as I used a three position toggle switch to control the lights. The back position turns the back flood lights on, the center position is off, and the front position turns the trapizoidal lights on. The switch mounted in an existing hole on the fender. This was a combination of several ideas that were posted on this forum, and it worked great. I enclosed a picture (although not a very good one) that shows the finished product.

 

[woodstock]

Why does everyone mount the lights at the top bar?
I too am going to install auxiliary lights and am considering mounting them on the side near the top.
Is this good or bad?
I have a shaved skull and already bang my head on enough things never mind adding more objects to knock my block on.

<font color=red>Winnipeg, Manitoba</font color=red>

2001 BX2200 (50 hrs)

 

[MikePA]

What would be wrong with mounting a light at the end of the FEL arm, right before the joint that goes down to the bucket? (see attached)

 

[rbargeron]

I like top inside corners of the ROPS for lights because you get best protection and higher lights give better illumination around the tractor. On my rig I put one facing forward, one back, with pushbutton switches in the bottom of the light housings - easy to reach. Power is from the worklight circuit red wire near the right tail light - ran the wire up through the ROPS - took some fishing. Very neat and so far have not banged my head on them, or wiped one off on a tree branch. The way I use my tractor, extra lights wouldn't last very long mounted anywhere else.

 

[JATO_RaT]

Mike great setup but you obviously don't use your loader like me. I'd give those lights 2 to 3 minutes before they were hanging from their wires. Thats another thing that bugs me about some loader manufactuers, I like having my hydraulic connections on the sides of the cylinders not the top. I often use the cylinders as part of a carrying platform for plywood etc with the bucket being the stop that holds the bottom of the material. As far as welding to the ROP's, not a problem provided you don't over heat the suface which for some little brackets for lights is going to be pretty tough. Weld or drill, you'll be OK. A mig welder will heat considerably less then a stick welder. Rat...