Welding a Small Part

[downsizingnow48]

Trying to decide MIG vs gas to make this clevis. Weld has to be strong.

The nut is 3/8 -24. Tube is 3/4" DOM, 3/16" wall, 1" long.

The tube is drilled out on the end to make a press fit lip for the nut. To hold it straight and also improve the weld. The lip is 1/16 wide and 3/32 deep.

For gas I am thinking #2 tip and maybe 3-4 lbs pressure.

For MIG I would use settings just under 1/8" and .030 wire.

I don't want to screw it up. I did make a third part to practice on first though.

Wonder what others would do here.

Thanks.

 

[Teachu2]

I'd put a bolt with copper anti-seize through it to hold it in place, use Mig and tack opposite points like cross-torqueing a set of lug nuts (1,4,6,3,5,2). Don't try to weld a continuous bead all the way around - get it solidly tacked down at the corners of the nut first, then the faces in the same pattern. Avoid putting a lot oh heat in one place, and heat opposite sides to even out the temperature.

 

[Fawken]

I've welded stuff like that hundreds of times with just a stick welder. Sometimes I put a long bolt and washer through it to keep it aligned while welding, then I immediately drop it into a bucket of used engine oil. They've got some 1/8 electrodes at TSC called Tempering Electrodes that I use if I want the thing bullet proof.

 

[4570Man]

I don't have a gas welder. If it has to be strong I would use a stick VS a mig.

 

[Teachu2]

It's a 3/8" bolt, guys - how strong does it have to be? Mig will do the job, and is far easier for a non-pro welder on a part this size. I'd Tig it, but that was not mentioned as an option - but neither was stick.....

 

[Fawken]

It's a 3/8" bolt, guys - how strong does it have to be? Mig will do the job, and is far easier for a non-pro welder on a part this size. I'd Tig it, but that was not mentioned as an option - but neither was stick.....

Yeah, I would use the TIG as well since it would look better, but as you said, that wasn't listed as an option. I have zero experience with a torch and just assumed everyone on this forum has a stick welder. With MIG I always wonder about penetration. On parts like this I don't sweat overheating because I temper it when done.

 

[Big Barn]

I'd put a bolt with copper anti-seize through it to hold it in place, use Mig and tack opposite points like cross-torqueing a set of lug nuts (1,4,6,3,5,2). Don't try to weld a continuous bead all the way around - get it solidly tacked down at the corners of the nut first, then the faces in the same pattern. Avoid putting a lot oh heat in one place, and heat opposite sides to even out the temperature.

This is how I would do it also.

Terry

 

[swines]

With MIG I always wonder about penetration

Then you don't know how to MIG weld properly. They put ships together with MIG welders. If you're worried about penetration, then you're using wire that's too small with not enough amperage.

I have a 300 Amp MIG and with 1/16 wire I can do 1/2-inch steel with a single pass.

Welding is:

1. Correct weld joint preparation.
2. Clean metal at the weld joint.
3. Matching the electrode size and amperage to the metal thickness.

If you do those three things correctly, there is no problem with penetration no matter what kind of welding process is used.

 

[Fawken]

Granted I personally do not use MIG. But if you think I do not know how to weld properly- well there just isn't enough bandwidth to show the pics of the hundreds if not thousands of trailers and other items I have built over 40 years using a stick welder. Custom gates, railings, trailers, implements, and even buildings. Recently welded a tiny eye onto a broken stainless steel tang to restore a WWII German paratrooper knife. Welded my own front end loader and sub frame from stock angles, flats, and sq. tube including the bucket.

 

[Shield Arc]

Tig welding would be my first choice, then Mig. I too would put a bolt through it. I'd use .023" wire, tack 4-corners, and weld opposite flat spots.

To get good penetration with Mig, all you need is power!