CJONE
Veteran Member
Kohlers have a tendancy to pop head gaskets. My 25HP did this last year and it was burning oil because of it. I would pull the heads first and check the gaskets over real well. CJ
Welder engine rebuilding advice
- Thread starter gengine
- Start date
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Kohler has had most of the manuals for later-model engines online for quite a few years now.
Here's a link to the shop manual for a CH18:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/sm_24_690_06.pdf
You said you wanted to disassemble it without removing the generator head? You won't be able to do that unless the head is coupled onto the blower housing end. (Kohler does make stub shafts that bolt onto the blower/flywheel side. Toro Dingos are one application in which they're used. The machine function pump is coupled on to the "traditonal" pto end of the crank, and the hydro pumps are belt driven off of the stub shaft coming out the opposite end.)
If your generator head is coupled onto the "traditional" pto end opposite of the flywheel, you'll have to remove it in order to open up the crankcase to access the connecting rod bolts if you want to remove the pistons.
Kohlers are like most small engines....simple to work on. As already mentioned, the v-twin Kohlers are bad for head gasket failures. They issued a repair kit starting about 10 years ago or so that included studs to replace the head bolts, as well as an improved gasket.
Here's a link to the shop manual for a CH18:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/sm_24_690_06.pdf
You said you wanted to disassemble it without removing the generator head? You won't be able to do that unless the head is coupled onto the blower housing end. (Kohler does make stub shafts that bolt onto the blower/flywheel side. Toro Dingos are one application in which they're used. The machine function pump is coupled on to the "traditonal" pto end of the crank, and the hydro pumps are belt driven off of the stub shaft coming out the opposite end.)
If your generator head is coupled onto the "traditional" pto end opposite of the flywheel, you'll have to remove it in order to open up the crankcase to access the connecting rod bolts if you want to remove the pistons.
Kohlers are like most small engines....simple to work on. As already mentioned, the v-twin Kohlers are bad for head gasket failures. They issued a repair kit starting about 10 years ago or so that included studs to replace the head bolts, as well as an improved gasket.
So far I just plan on rebuilding the heads. I think the problem is the valve seals or a he'd gasket, but I'll find out more when I can take it apart. I was going to start it the day I started this thread, but a lot of other things have come up, and now I can't find the time to get into the shop. That day it was snowing and in the twenties, and now it is bright and sunny, and in the 50's. It's hard to be in the shop when it's that nice.
RPW
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2009
- Messages
- 1,105
For the Bobcat 225nt's the shaft will be threaded on. It will require some angle iron and some bolts to attach to the flywheel and a big mucking wrench grasp the shaft at the end of the generator. Be careful as these are a "fine" thread and can be damaged easily. However if you are only working on the top end you probably won't have to go that far. Just remove all of the shrouds.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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