Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It really bugs me when a part disapears like that, especially when five out of six are where I put them. What happend to the missing one???? I don't understand it )</font>

I've posted before about the gremlins in my shop. Sounds like they've moved to Tyler. And after you buy the new part, they'll probably put the old one back where they got it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It really bugs me when a part disapears like that, especially when five out of six are where I put them. What happend to the missing one???? I don't understand it )</font>

I've posted before about the gremlins in my shop. Sounds like they've moved to Tyler. And after you buy the new part, they'll probably put the old one back where they got it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[john_bud]

Eddie,

Nice job! Say, why didn't you paint the head before putting it back on?

jb

 

[john_bud]

Eddie,

Nice job! Say, why didn't you paint the head before putting it back on?

jb

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Ed, was just thinking as I read your reply on the re-setting of the valves. Since you have 3 torque sequences on the head bolts you probably don't need to reset the valves after heat-up. You would only need to do that if you have to re-torque the head bolts after a run-in period. My mistake,,, I think your OK on the valve adjustment as long as you don't have to retorque the head bolts. Bobg in VA

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Ed, was just thinking as I read your reply on the re-setting of the valves. Since you have 3 torque sequences on the head bolts you probably don't need to reset the valves after heat-up. You would only need to do that if you have to re-torque the head bolts after a run-in period. My mistake,,, I think your OK on the valve adjustment as long as you don't have to retorque the head bolts. Bobg in VA

 

[RobJ]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bob,



There are three positions where the pistons are at TDC. I was confused because I was thinking how to do this with gas engines. With a diesel, there is two TDC points for adjusting the valves. There is no spark, so that isn't important. All that matters is the piston is at the top of it's stroke to get the valves adjusted.

To make sure the piston was at the highest point, I put some assembly lube on a long screwdriver. You can see it in the pictures. The screwdriver is on the rocker arms. The white line is my mark.


)</font>

I hope you are not doing it this way or are just explaining it wrong. In every 4 stroke (or 4 cycle) diesel the piston comes up only twice in the cycle. Once at TDC compression (valves closed), and once in the valve overlap position. In valve overlap both valves are moving at the same time, exhaust is closing and the intake is opening. If you set them at overlap it could cause a problem. I suggest you use one of the methods mention here.

And every engine I worked on the valves were to be set on a cold engine (as in overnight). Some offered a temp "tune up" valve spec used for engines cooled 2-4 hours.

Sounds like you are really close. Good Luck!!!

 

[RobJ]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bob,



There are three positions where the pistons are at TDC. I was confused because I was thinking how to do this with gas engines. With a diesel, there is two TDC points for adjusting the valves. There is no spark, so that isn't important. All that matters is the piston is at the top of it's stroke to get the valves adjusted.

To make sure the piston was at the highest point, I put some assembly lube on a long screwdriver. You can see it in the pictures. The screwdriver is on the rocker arms. The white line is my mark.


)</font>

I hope you are not doing it this way or are just explaining it wrong. In every 4 stroke (or 4 cycle) diesel the piston comes up only twice in the cycle. Once at TDC compression (valves closed), and once in the valve overlap position. In valve overlap both valves are moving at the same time, exhaust is closing and the intake is opening. If you set them at overlap it could cause a problem. I suggest you use one of the methods mention here.

And every engine I worked on the valves were to be set on a cold engine (as in overnight). Some offered a temp "tune up" valve spec used for engines cooled 2-4 hours.

Sounds like you are really close. Good Luck!!!

 

[EddieWalker]

Rob,

Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.

I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.

Thank you.
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Rob,

Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.

I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.

Thank you.
Eddie

 

[hilld]

Eddie,

if you are going to pull the injectors, you can easily tell when a piston is at TDC. #1 is easy as there should be indicators on the crankshaft pulley. Then turn the engine 120 degrees to the next cylinder in the firing order and use a screwdriver, welding rod, etc to determine when exactly the piston is at TDC. I am saying use the long screwdriver to see if the piston is at the top, measure the distance on #1 cylinder piston to the beginning of the threads for the injector if you can see them and you can easliy tell if the piston is at TDC. Does that make sense. Just don't leave the screwdriver/welding rod in the hole while you are turning over the engine, you don't want to scratch the piston liner.

Derek

 

[hilld]

Eddie,

if you are going to pull the injectors, you can easily tell when a piston is at TDC. #1 is easy as there should be indicators on the crankshaft pulley. Then turn the engine 120 degrees to the next cylinder in the firing order and use a screwdriver, welding rod, etc to determine when exactly the piston is at TDC. I am saying use the long screwdriver to see if the piston is at the top, measure the distance on #1 cylinder piston to the beginning of the threads for the injector if you can see them and you can easliy tell if the piston is at TDC. Does that make sense. Just don't leave the screwdriver/welding rod in the hole while you are turning over the engine, you don't want to scratch the piston liner.

Derek

 

[EddieWalker]

Derek

Thanks, but I left the injectors in. They have a copper washer at the end to seal them in and after torquing them down, I didn't want to remove them. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I went back are re-read Robs post on how to time the valves and saw my mistake. I didn't think it through and tried to take a shortcut. Not smart on my part.

I took off the vavle cover, and turned the engine until I could see the valves open and close. The exhast valve was first, then the intake opened. I kept turning until it closed and both valves had a small amount of movement. I checked and number one cylinder was correct.

I got three out of six cylinders adjusted correctly!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif


Then I watched cylinder number 5. It was on the intake stroke, so I only had to turn the crank a short distance until it was at TDC. This one was also correct. But 3 was way off.

I found the three cylinders that I messed up on to be way off on the exhaust adjustment. WAY too much movement. I didn't measure it, but guess it was three to four times more than it should have been!!!!!!!!

Rob,

Thank you again for catching my mistake.

That would have caused me all sorts of issues and I wouldn't have known what I'd done wrong to even know where to start looking.


Here is the engine with a little paint and getting closer to being together. One can of Case spray paint is $8!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Derek

Thanks, but I left the injectors in. They have a copper washer at the end to seal them in and after torquing them down, I didn't want to remove them. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I went back are re-read Robs post on how to time the valves and saw my mistake. I didn't think it through and tried to take a shortcut. Not smart on my part.

I took off the vavle cover, and turned the engine until I could see the valves open and close. The exhast valve was first, then the intake opened. I kept turning until it closed and both valves had a small amount of movement. I checked and number one cylinder was correct.

I got three out of six cylinders adjusted correctly!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif


Then I watched cylinder number 5. It was on the intake stroke, so I only had to turn the crank a short distance until it was at TDC. This one was also correct. But 3 was way off.

I found the three cylinders that I messed up on to be way off on the exhaust adjustment. WAY too much movement. I didn't measure it, but guess it was three to four times more than it should have been!!!!!!!!

Rob,

Thank you again for catching my mistake.

That would have caused me all sorts of issues and I wouldn't have known what I'd done wrong to even know where to start looking.


Here is the engine with a little paint and getting closer to being together. One can of Case spray paint is $8!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

I never had a water or over heating issue, but the wate hoses were very soft on on the verge of failing. I replaced them with new to avoid having to do it in the middle of the jungle a few months from now.

There is a weird little hose that comes from the radiator to the thermostat houseing that I don't understand the need for, but since it's there, I replaced it too. The original had ben cut and spliced twice from rubbing on the shroud. It was also worn half way through the metal splice from rubbing on the shroud and just a matter of time until it failed again.

I pulled it off the shroud and fastened it to the metal part of the radiator hose with a galvanized nipple and a hose clamp. This way I can tighten the clamp down really good, but not close off the hose.

Hope it works. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

I never had a water or over heating issue, but the wate hoses were very soft on on the verge of failing. I replaced them with new to avoid having to do it in the middle of the jungle a few months from now.

There is a weird little hose that comes from the radiator to the thermostat houseing that I don't understand the need for, but since it's there, I replaced it too. The original had ben cut and spliced twice from rubbing on the shroud. It was also worn half way through the metal splice from rubbing on the shroud and just a matter of time until it failed again.

I pulled it off the shroud and fastened it to the metal part of the radiator hose with a galvanized nipple and a hose clamp. This way I can tighten the clamp down really good, but not close off the hose.

Hope it works. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

This picture needs some explaining. It's one of those unforseen nightmares that I neve saw coming.

I had to take off the little metal tubing you see in the middle of the picture to get the head off. The tubing twisted on me and broke before comeing off. No biggy, I ordered a new one from Case for a few bucks.

The replacement tubing has two female ends. The original has a female and a male end. Case said that's the only one they have and there is no new fitting to fit it. It's one of those odd sizes that the auto parts stores and Lowes don't carry. It needs to make a 90 turn into the block from the copper tubing.

After running around Tyler, I went to my hose specialty store the does my hydraulic lines. They didn't have the fiting either, but suggested I cut off one end and replace it with a compression fitting. Two hours of running around for a $1 fix.

The other problem is the housing for the two thermostats. The original bolts only threaded in about 3/8 of an inch into the block. When I tried to put them back in, they striped out.

It's obvious Cummins used bolts that were too short here, so I went out to find some metric, 8mm bolts that were slightly longer than 3 inches.

The only ones I could find were stainless steel and $3 each. Fortunately I only needed two!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

They are half an inch longer than the original ones and worked perfectly!!!

The lost bolt type fitting for the fuel return was in stock at Case. $4 to replace what the Gremlins took. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It's starting to look like an engine again.
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

This picture needs some explaining. It's one of those unforseen nightmares that I neve saw coming.

I had to take off the little metal tubing you see in the middle of the picture to get the head off. The tubing twisted on me and broke before comeing off. No biggy, I ordered a new one from Case for a few bucks.

The replacement tubing has two female ends. The original has a female and a male end. Case said that's the only one they have and there is no new fitting to fit it. It's one of those odd sizes that the auto parts stores and Lowes don't carry. It needs to make a 90 turn into the block from the copper tubing.

After running around Tyler, I went to my hose specialty store the does my hydraulic lines. They didn't have the fiting either, but suggested I cut off one end and replace it with a compression fitting. Two hours of running around for a $1 fix.

The other problem is the housing for the two thermostats. The original bolts only threaded in about 3/8 of an inch into the block. When I tried to put them back in, they striped out.

It's obvious Cummins used bolts that were too short here, so I went out to find some metric, 8mm bolts that were slightly longer than 3 inches.

The only ones I could find were stainless steel and $3 each. Fortunately I only needed two!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

They are half an inch longer than the original ones and worked perfectly!!!

The lost bolt type fitting for the fuel return was in stock at Case. $4 to replace what the Gremlins took. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It's starting to look like an engine again.
Eddie

 

[RobJ]

Great! Well a loose valve is better than a to tight valve. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I sort of gave you the text book way, in the mud of a field I've just bumped the starter to get what I needed. It's a little harder than when the engine is on a stand. If you think about it the valves are closed for more than 360 degrees of the 720 degree cycle so there is room to get it close. But you still can do all 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, or 24 cylinders in 2 turns of the ctank if you want to get fancy. I imagine on a huge 16 cylinder engine it would be easier. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

BTW, my next project, got some pics of the BIL's dead 350 with about 10 hours on the engine since I rebuilt it last. All new upper end should be intact, but he ran it out of oil so the lower end is locked up. Hopefully I can clean up the journals with some emery cloth.....lots of emery cloth.

Here is where we will be rebuilding it...could be worse...it's actually sort of clear.

 

[RobJ]

Great! Well a loose valve is better than a to tight valve. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I sort of gave you the text book way, in the mud of a field I've just bumped the starter to get what I needed. It's a little harder than when the engine is on a stand. If you think about it the valves are closed for more than 360 degrees of the 720 degree cycle so there is room to get it close. But you still can do all 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, or 24 cylinders in 2 turns of the ctank if you want to get fancy. I imagine on a huge 16 cylinder engine it would be easier. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

BTW, my next project, got some pics of the BIL's dead 350 with about 10 hours on the engine since I rebuilt it last. All new upper end should be intact, but he ran it out of oil so the lower end is locked up. Hopefully I can clean up the journals with some emery cloth.....lots of emery cloth.

Here is where we will be rebuilding it...could be worse...it's actually sort of clear.