Ways to limit flow for small cylinders?

[joea99]

Needle valve been holding 30 years here but I don't know how long the duration of your intentions are.

Never noted if they have lock nuts or the design will hold them. My intentions are one thing, age, etc are quite another.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks, good starting points. Where do you get, or sell the adapters? Various fitting connection types?

For TnT I'd rather have "too slow" than "too fast". Speaking as Capt. Obvious.

I build all of mine into the port adapters. They are all #6 ORB-M / #6 JIC-M. Either straights or 90s.

I believe that about any of the online suppliers have the type previously linked to in various sizes.

 

[LD1]

The internal checks in the valve are probably load check valves. You mention a joystick valve so I "assume" its a generic loader valve....and those are pretty common with load checks. Not the same thing as a check valve to prevent unwanted cylinder drift.

Personally Id try it without any restrictor first. You are controlling the cylinders with a manual valve not an electronic one. SO you can feather it just the same way you feather the loader or backhoe controls when you dont want it to move fast.

IF you do decide you want to slow it down....the inline needle valve/flow controls are what I would do. You can dial it in to your exact liking rather than being stuck with a fixed orifice size or having to change out orifices if you dont like the speed.

 

[joea99]

The internal checks in the valve are probably load check valves. You mention a joystick valve so I "assume" its a generic loader valve....and those are pretty common with load checks. Not the same thing as a check valve to prevent unwanted cylinder drift.

Personally Id try it without any restrictor first. You are controlling the cylinders with a manual valve not an electronic one. SO you can feather it just the same way you feather the loader or backhoe controls when you dont want it to move fast.

IF you do decide you want to slow it down....the inline needle valve/flow controls are what I would do. You can dial it in to your exact liking rather than being stuck with a fixed orifice size or having to change out orifices if you dont like the speed.

Trying it first is likely what I will do. I just don't completely trust my ability to "feather" a new and probably very stiff valve. Don't see any reason I'd ever want to move a box blade, scraper or rake "fast". +All relative, I guess.

It is listed as a "loader" valve, which I don't think is significant in this application. Am I wrong yet again? At first though I would think a "load check" and preventing cylinder drift are related. More coffee might help.

 

[BukitCase]

"It is listed as a "loader" valve, which I don't think is significant in this application"

It might be significant unless you actually intend to use the valve for a loader - it's quite common for loader valves, especially ones for smaller tractors, to include "regen" in the section intended for bucket curl - regen re-directs a portion of the pressure to the OPPOSITE side of the cylinders, purportedly to eliminate cavitation/jumpiness caused by getting air into the circuit - for any use OTHER than a curl circuit, this can cause "wonky" results.

I'm not sure whether it's always stated in descriptions whether a specific valve has regen in that valve spool, but I'd be asking before buying if it's NOT for a loader function... Steve

 

[LD1]

Yup, if its a regen valve it could cause you issues.

Got a model # and brand for the valve?

Also....the load checks (sometimes called anti-drop valves) are internal to the valve. And when trying to feather the loader and raise really slow....the weight in the loader (and therefore backpressure on that line) can cause the loader to actually go down instead of up when trying to move real slow. Thats what the load checks prevent

 

[joea99]

Yup, if its a regen valve it could cause you issues.

Got a model # and brand for the valve?

Also....the load checks (sometimes called anti-drop valves) are internal to the valve. And when trying to feather the loader and raise really slow....the weight in the loader (and therefore backpressure on that line) can cause the loader to actually go down instead of up when trying to move real slow. Thats what the load checks prevent

Thanks for explaining the "anti drop" thing. If I get any positional drift I can always consider putting checks on the cylinders. Some say they never experience that at all.

It's a Summit Hydraulics P40. Checked with them and they say this valve does not have "regen" and should work fine for my application.

Now that I have the valve, I kinda think I should have gone with a non joy stick. Lever sticks up higher than I imagined it would. Lack of real world experience is showing.

 

[LD1]

Thanks for explaining the "anti drop" thing. If I get any positional drift I can always consider putting checks on the cylinders. Some say they never experience that at all.

It's a Summit Hydraulics P40. Checked with them and they say this valve does not have "regen" and should work fine for my application.

Now that I have the valve, I kinda think I should have gone with a non joy stick. Lever sticks up higher than I imagined it would. Lack of real world experience is showing.

Good news on the non-regen,

I would just cut the handle down to a size that works best for you once you have the valve mounted.
cutting it down means you also have to move it less....cause loader valves usually have pretty long throws to begin with

 

[Fallon]

Here is what I supply for the T&T sets that I sell.
2" dia cylinders get .030 orifice.
2 1/2" dia cylinders get .045 orifice.
3" dia cylinders get .060 orifice.

In theory you should only need one on the rod end port, but for whatever reason I have found the one at each port has eliminated any issues.

This seems to work well for 99.9% of my customers.

You should have 2" cylinders, so .030 orifice should work well for you.

I'm happy with my FitRite plumbing & TnT cylinders on my previous & current machine. His restrictor setup works well.

 

[ruffdog]

Here is what I supply for the T&T sets that I sell.
2" dia cylinders get .030 orifice.
2 1/2" dia cylinders get .045 orifice.
3" dia cylinders get .060 orifice.

In theory you should only need one on the rod end port, but for whatever reason I have found the one at each port has eliminated any issues.

This seems to work well for 99.9% of my customers.

You should have 2" cylinders, so .030 orifice should work well for you.

Just thinking here....for every inch of piston movement, more fluid is displaced on the rodless side of the cylinder. So, if both sides of the cylinder have the same size restrictor, would it not be the one on the rodless end that is doing the work because it must flow the most volume of fluid?