water seepage

[praha]

Does anyone have an experience with a minor, but annoying baSEMENT WATER SEEPAGE? I bought a SANI TRED product,but it requires a dry basement......
I need some rubberish paint and something for an edge where the wall meets the floor. Any idea/experience , anyone?/?/
thanks,

Joe

 

[theboman]

Here's what I suggest to folks buying/selling houses if they have "minor issues"
Find out where the water is "seaping" into the house and from there.

Hydraulic Cement would be my first step.
If there's a basement window, and wonderful place that allows water in homes and the older the house the better chance of leaking!! Make sure it's sealed good and tight. They rust, mortar breaks.... all sorts of issues here.
Gutters. Make sure downspouts are directed well away from the house.
Sump pump. A wonderful device if installed correctly.
Dehumidifier are cool as ice cream in July for small moisture problems.
Landscaping. Make sure water can run AWAY from the house.
Mulch/flower beds etc. Lots are right against the house, and this leads to lots of things....the water goes down against the foundation if you water them a lot....

MULCH, a dirty word next to a house, unless you're a termite and then it's DINNER!!!
Sidebar, if you use mulch next to your house, replace it YEARLY and get rid of the old mulch (good for a compost pile). The old mulch is breaking down, we call that ROTTING, and it being wet, old wood it's a happy meal for the termites, ants, etc., from there they'll move right into your home!

Drainage around foundation. Many home has 4" PVC pipe and over time it won't necessary rot, but it will crush and break...so a shovel maybe needed if one suspects....

French drain system..call professionals. They work when installed correctly!

I hope it helps some, or is a place to start.

 

[pat32rf]

If you have water on the outside trying to get in, the chances of stopping it are pretty slim. Between expansion joins and concrete cracks, you just can't keep things completely sealed. The water just runs along the outside until it finds the next weakest point.
If you get things sealed up this season, then the winter comes, things cool, contract and new leaks appear.
Either spend your time removing the source of the water (downspouts, landscaping etc) or find another easier way for the water to go (sump-pumps, drainage tile etc)
Our last house was a 130yr old classic with a two foot thick rubble foundation, poured concrete deck outside with ground water under it. I pounded pipes out thru the rubble and directed the water into a new drain system and sump pump under the basement floor. Once the water had an easy way in via the pipes, it all came in that way and the walls dried up enough to parge and paint...

 

[praha]

thanks guys, I will check all the obvious stuff you suggested Bo.
Joe

 

[scott_vt]

Good Afternoon Joe,
Some excellent suggestions from the guys allready !

Here is what I did, a long thread but maybe some useful info for your particular situation !

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/72203-water-basement-help.html

 

[Kays Supply]

There is a product that looks like base moulding. It has holes in the back and is hollow. You drill holes in the blocks about 2" above the floor and then epoxy this over it. It has corners and you run it around to a sump. I have seen it work pretty well on block walls. It might let the walls dry to a point you could put the coating on you have.

 

[forgeblast]

I used hydraulic cement around the base of the walls, then used drylock on the walls, that cut down on a lot of dampness. I also ran the downspouts the right way and sloped all water away from the house.

 

[praha]

I used hydraulic cement around the base of the walls, then used drylock on the walls, that cut down on a lot of dampness. I also ran the downspouts the right way and sloped all water away from the house.

thank you guys, this seems to be the solution for me, too. 4 yards of dirt already in place.Joe