Water Pump Gasket

[Gregster613]

My water pump went bad; it's been 11 years so it's not surprising to me. I found a replacement on ebay and it's being shipped now, but the listing didn't say whether or not it includes the gasket. While I wait for it to arrive I'm trying to come up with ideas to use if it doesn't come with the gasket. I have a roll of gasket material but am not very good at fabricating holes and slots. I will try but am not too hopeful of success.

I wonder if silicone or something else will be sufficient for anti-freeze and high temperatures? Has anyone used something similar for a water pump and had no leaks? If so, what name brand worked for you? That would be the easiest solution if indeed it will work. I needed to remove the entire radiator to gain access to remove the WP. I'd really like to "NOT" have to do this job again due to a leak. So I'm seeking proven ideas here please.
Thanks Greg

 

[DJ54]

Gaskets are pretty easy to make. I do get frustrated that flat sheet gasket material isn't as common as it used to be. But, after learning a trick from one of our mechanics at work, using roll type became much easier. I keep a steam iron in one of the shop cabinets, to flatten out rolled gasket material. A scrap piece of 3/4" BC grade plywood is my ironing board. Cut a piece of material big enough for the job, and lay it on the plywood ironing board. Plug the iron in, and let it heat up. Give the gasket material a decent spritz of water from the iron, then simply iron it out, until it's dry. It will stay flat. If you don't have one, they are reasonably cheap, or you can find them at a thrift store for a couple of bucks.

Using which ever mating surface is handier, using the pein end of a smaller 12 oz. or so, ball pein hammer (the pointier the end, the better), hold the gasket material in place, and tap out the bolt holes first, and insert a bolt, to hold it in place. Holding it as flat as possible, tap out all or the bolt holes, and insert a bolt, just to hold it in place. Then tap lightly right on the sharp edge of the openings all the way around. You may have to make several rounds around the opening to make a nicely cut gasket. Patience goes a long way when doing this. Be sure and tap right on the edge, if you tap in the opening, you may tear the gasket material. Doesn't take but a few minutes to make the average gasket. Using the proper gasket material is probably more important than anything. Normally anything I make, I apply something like the Permatex 300 brush on gasket sealer. A buddy of mine swears by the old Indian Head gasket shellac. To each his own.

I have several ballpein hammers I specifically use for tapping out gaskets in the tool box, probably weighing 6, 8-10 and, 12-16 oz. each. Small hammer for narrow slots and holes, others for whatever I feel is right for the job. 2 of the hammers I found at auctions for cheap. Usually in a hodgpodge box of tools, that go for a few bucks. Those hammers had the sharper point I was looking for. Everything else in the box was icing on the cake, another spare to go with 3, or 4 of the same thing I already have. I did make a sharper pein end on one, with the bench grinder, specifically for that purpose, and probably use it more than the others. I won't say I've made hundreds of gaskets over the years, but probably close to 100. From small engines, to large farm tractors, and everything in between.

Once you get successful at making them, you think nothing of making one. Just so you have the right kind, and thickness for the job at hand.

I don't know if they still handle it, but NAPA at one time had flat sheets of gasket material with an adhesive side to it, that acts like a sealer too. Tap the gasket out, then peel the adhesive off, to hold in place. Not as inexpensive as the roll type, but I did find it handy for a couple I have made.

 

[Leejohn]

A ball bearing works good also.

 

[PILOON]

A ball bearing works good also.

LOL, I have an assortment of balls from old bearings just for making gaskets.
From 3/4 on down and I store them in an old pill container for when I need to make a gasket.
When U do make a paper gasket, smear it with grease and it will be re usable as it won't stick and peal off.

 

[LouNY]

I just did a waterpump and had to make the thermostat gasket, the first one I used a ball pein hammer to make, then looking at the old one I could see that the original actually help the thermostat in place.
I used a hole saw for the center hole on that one cut out the right sized piece then a block of wood and a hole saw did the hole then back to the ball pein for the bolt holes.

I'll second the grease too hold a gasket in place and it's makes it nice if you do end up going into again.

 

[Gregster613]

Thanks for the ideas and replies! I will sure keep the steam iron thought in mind DJ54; I'd have never had that idea! I do have a roll of fel-pro that I did use to cut out my gasket, and while not pretty, it will work. I just needed to take a lot of time and patience (both of which I'm all too often neglecting to apply). That stem iron idea sure would have helped me make it easier.

Leejohn and Piloon, I don't have any loose ball bearings on hand now but will add them to my junk drawer for future usage as I come across bad bearings. That's another idea I sure wouldn't have thought of! Also for the use of simple grease on the gasket face! As long as I do have a gasket - that will perhaps save it if it does have to come off again.

My original question was about the wisdom of just using a silicone sealer instead of a gasket; since no one touched on that I must assume it's not a valid process? I'm still curious about that thought, although I must admit I feel surer by using an actual gasket though. And I was able to fumble through and get it made anyhow. Thanks for the thoughts/ideas! Greg

 

[DJ54]

Silicone has its place, I just don't use it too often. Usually in a place where it doesn't come in contact with a lubricating, or cooling system. If I do, it's a small bead, put mating surface's together, but not tighten. Let it cure, then do the final snug. Haven't hadone leak yet.

Over the years I've bought a lot of lawn, up to farm tractors and equipment, to keep or flip. Many have had oil pans, steering boxes, transmission covers, etc. with big gobs of "blue goop" inside and out of the mating surfaces. A couple of the tractors actually had pieces sucked up on the suction screen of the oil pump. I'm sure other who do the same, have had a similar experience.

On the other hand, I bought an old dump truck, that a PO had made a gasket for the hydraulic pump for the dump bed. When I hauled the first load, the gasket blew out, so I had to shovel off that 7-8 ton load by hand. Needless to say, I was not happy. I took it to the shop, dropped the pump to repair, and see about getting a new gasket from a hydraulic shop, or make one myself. The PO had put it together dry, so it came off pretty easy. It was made from pretty thin material. One section of the gasket was about 1" wide. One side was sort of a tannish brown, the other side was white, and had green, and red coloring to it that the print looked somewhat familiar. After looking at it for a few seconds, it was clear that they had used a Kellogs Corn Flake's box for gasket material. You could make out the rooster's comb, and part of its head. I had to laugh, yet PO'd at the same time... I made a new gasket for it, and hauled with it about 2 weeks, then decided to trade it in on a new 1 ton dump truck. Live and learn.

 

[Zebrafive]

I was taught the ball pein hammer method over 40 years ago.
In the mean time, contact the seller and ask if a gasket is included. If not, make one from your original water pump and be ready when the new pump arrives.

 

[big bubba]

why not get the gasket from your dealership? no sense in reinventing the wheel

 

[Bayfisher]

never bought a water pump that the gasket wasn't included, and would never use a sealant in place of a gasket.