water line to house and lagoon

   / water line to house and lagoon #1  

mechanic

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2004
Messages
211
Location
missouri
We just bought a new house that has probably give or take 300 feet of water line to the house. I've never had that long of a water supply line. I just hope it never gets a leak. I would never know where to start digging to find it. Any of you guys have such a long water supply line and like it. It does get me back from the road a ways which is good, because of all the dust from the dirt road.The other thing we have is a lagoon and no septic. I know you have to keep all weeds down, but is there anything we should put in it?
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #2  
I ran a 1000' water line back to my barn and have never had a problem. Don't worry about not being able to find a leak. When you see a water puddle in your yard on a hot summer day when everything else is dry, you'll know where the leak is.:eek:
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #3  
I ran over 3/4 mile of three inch PVC twenty years ago and have had one leak. It was easy to find because once the water started flowing through the PVC joint it eroded the PVC until most of the water was boiling up out of the ground.
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #4  
The water line to my house is 550 ft and no problem so far.
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #5  
Buy the strongest PVC you can get schedule 80, and the best glue and go slow, and methodical - you will never have a problem.

If you have snow etc, pat attention to frost lines, I think?

Stub out a couple of hose connections ( or hydrants) along the way for future, you never know where you might need water, and it's a lot cheaper o do it from the get go, than to have to dig it up, and try to T off.
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #6  
I am about 500 ft to the county meter. If you are on public water and worried about leaks check and see if they offer insurance. Our water company offers a policy for $1 per month that covers you if a leak occurs and you find yourself with an enormous water bill one month.

MarkV
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #7  
For long water lines, it's better to buy slip joint pipes then glue together. The glue doesn't give and when the land around it moves, the pipes break. Slip jointed pipe can move quite a large distance and still retain it's seal.

I'm not sure how small you can go in pipe size, so that might not be an option. My house has a six inch line that my wife and I installed. I know you can get 2 inch pipe with slip joints, but don't know about any smaller sizes.

My longest run was 1,200 feet to a house I owned at the bottom of a hill. The original line was thinwall and it had more leaks in it then it was possible to find. It also had over 100 pounds of preasure at the house, but 65 pounds at the meter at the top of the hill. I dug the trench for it one day, and layed the pipe the next. Backfilling the trench was the hardest part of the job, but that's the way with most trenches.

I used schedule 40, one inch pipe in 20 foot lengths with the bell ends. If you have to glue, be sure to use the right pipe. The bell end is probably three to four times longer then any coupling, and will give you ALLOT more surface area for the glue to hold the pipes together.

Always use purple primer. It's not really a primer like paint primer, but a chemical the prepairs the PVC to let the glue work. I always use clear glue. I'm no expert on this, but I'm on really good terms with my water district and they have allot of expereince in what works and what fails. They told me that clear glue with purple primer is by far the best way to glue PVC together.

Eddie
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #8  
When they installed my 1000' water line 4 years ago they used schedule 80. I think it was in 10 or 12' sections dug down 4 feet. They did have problems getting it under the creek. It kept floating back up. They ended up using 2 45 degree angle pieces to keep it down. If I have any problems I think it will be in this section but no problems so far.
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #9  
Matt_W said:
They did have problems getting it under the creek. It kept floating back up. They ended up using 2 45 degree angle pieces to keep it down.

Nothing wrong with Schedule 80, but C900 and the newer C909 is allot better. It's just not readily available at the box stores.

For crossing creeks, you dam it if you can. Dig the trench, lay the pipe and cover it with concrete. If you just cover it in dirt, it's likely to open up as it's impossible to get compaction in those condition. You do the same for water lines and sewage lines.

Depending on where you are and your requirements, you need at least a foot, and in my case, two feet of concrete over pipes that go under a creek.

Directional boreing is another option that is cheaper if it's a large or very wide creek.

Eddie
 
   / water line to house and lagoon #10  
You know Eddie I had my doubts that these guys knew what they was doing. You really can not even call this a creek. More like a trickle. Spring feed, stays clear all the time and rarely rises much even with alot of rain. The backhoe dug the hole right off my road and they tried to sink the pipe with out removing any water?? I am happy to hear everyones comments on the schedule 80. I am not sure what c900 or 909 is but so many people kept talking about big coils of water pipe(maybe 50 or 100') you can roll out in the ditch and limit the connections made thus less chances of failure.
 

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