Water in transmission

[Lilbell]

Good morning to all.
I'm glad to be here I've got some what of a huge problem I've got a Satoh Buck 3 cylinder diesel tractor with not front loader just standard 3 point hitch. I noticed I had a couple different problems start happening all at once and discovered that my transmission/ hydrolic systems fluid is almost identical to a gallon of milk. I drained it instantly. I was wondering if there is anything I need to use and if so how, to flush this transmission out before I put new fluid in ( just for anyone's information I don't use the hydrolics on the tractor at all and don't really plan on it. I'm just concerned mainly about my transmission or whatever I'm told I may need to consider anyway i was told I could flush it with diesel but not going to until I get vets opinion on that matter . Thanks lilbell.

 

[Hay Dude]

Yeah some guys use diesel. It’s “runny” compared to gearbox oil, but it won’t damage internals. Some guys use kerosene.

 

[Jchonline]

Cool little machine. Linking for others to see. TractorData.com Satoh Buck S470 tractor information

 

[ljjhouser]

Welcome to TBN.

 

[ericm979]

Is the shift lever (or another lever) boot torn or missing, and the tractor is out in the rain? That's one way water gets in.

Use tractor fluid rather than hydraulic fluid. It's better on wet brakes and clutches. Not sure if your brakes are wet but it won't hurt and does not cost much more than hydraulic fluid. I'd get it warm and change it rather than trying to flush it. If it's still milky, change it again.

BTW if you raise the 3pt, you're using the hydraulics.

 

[DJ54]

I use a mix of diesel, ATF, usually a 50/50 mix of the transmission capacity, minus 1 quart. Then add 1 quart of 90% rubbing alcohol. Diesel does have a bit of lubrication properties, and the ATF is a high detergent oil, which will clean things up, while the diesel washes everything to the bottom of the transmission. The rubbing alcohol will absorb any remaining moisture, and take it out with it. Add proper amount to the transmission, then drive around for 10 minutes or so, then immediately drain. I usually flush with an extra 1/2-to 1 gallon of diesel for a final flush, once it quits draining.

Depending on what type of filter element is on the hydraulic pick-up, if a paper type element, would probably be a good idea to change it. If you have a service, or operators manual, it should tell you how to do that. Maybe someone here has a like model, or similar one, and can advise on that. Could also be a You Tube video on it.

As mentioned, if the shifter boot(s) is/are bad, more than likely if it has set outside in the rain, water will run down a shifter into the transmission. Even replacing them if they are bad, is not a complete guarantee it will stop that. If it can't be parked inside, some sort of cover should shed most of it, even a 5 gallon bucket set over the shifter's, and secured might work.

Here is a picture of using this mix to clean the transmission on my IH 140,which also had trans oil that looked like a thick milkshake.. What you see in the bottom is remnants of a bad PTO bearing. I did a final cleanup, while I had it apart to replace the bearing, and adding new oil. It did a pretty decent job of cleaning things up.

 

[rScotty]

Is the shift lever (or another lever) boot torn or missing, and the tractor is out in the rain? That's one way water gets in.

Use tractor fluid rather than hydraulic fluid. It's better on wet brakes and clutches. Not sure if your brakes are wet but it won't hurt and does not cost much more than hydraulic fluid. I'd get it warm and change it rather than trying to flush it. If it's still milky, change it again.

BTW if you raise the 3pt, you're using the hydraulics.

That's what I would do. Don't flush it, change it a few times.
I don't know Satoh, but every other Japanese compact from that era had a cleanable "crud" filter that should be removed and the screen cleaned. Those filters tended to clog with goo when the transmission got water in it. And that will starve the hydraulic pump that works the 3pt.
So change it a few times - use cheapest oil because you know it is better than water - and clean that screen.
As eric says, it's usually water getting in past the shifter. If that has happened, you had better drain the steering box at the bottom of the steering column because there is water standing in the steering column as well.
Luck,
rScotty

 

[Lilbell]

Update: I cleaned and changed to oil, filled it to the proper level. Now, when I mash the clutch, it's quills and the tractor goes dead, like a big load is being put on it and I'm just pressing the clutch pedal is all?

 

[Lilbell]

Welcome to TBN.

Thanks, I've been looking for ppl with more experience than myself. It helps to learn from well seasoned experienced ppl. I'm fairly new to the tractor world. Been around then all my life, just never actually was able to be hands on until I bought my first one. Course not long after the problems start, guess thats just part of it im hoping anyway?

 

[rScotty]

Update: I cleaned and changed to oil, filled it to the proper level. Now, when I mash the clutch, it's quills and the tractor goes dead, like a big load is being put on it and I'm just pressing the clutch pedal is all?

I went back and looked and don't see that you ever did use this tractor? Did it ever run? I ask because what you are describing that sounds like the throwout bearing (TO) is bound up. That's not an uncommon fault in older tractors. But it makes me think that perhaps this one was in a flood rather than a rainstorm.

When the TO bearing is bound up, it slides on the face of the clutch plate instead of turning with it. The TO bearing makes a squealing noise and as you push harder and harder the friction will eventually be sufficient to stop the engine. Revving the engine will shorten the squeal but the heat will farther damage the components - and you still have to replace the bearing.

Replacing the throw out bearing requires separating the tractor at the bell-housing. There is no other way.
Luckily this is a small tractor without a loader, so that should not be too hard a task.
good luck,
rScotty