Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060

   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #151  
Racor makes a small 2µ filter assembly.
Wtf is a "nurse tank"?
Its another name for a mobile fuel cell. We called them NT’s when they were mounted on a trailer.
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #152  
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060
  • Thread Starter
#153  
This is the 'nurse tank' that I have. Maybe I should call it a 'transfer tank'.

Lots of good ideas and suggestions here. Thanks! Now, I am considering having a welder build me a new tank with a sump and a drain at the bottom and a port for a desiccant/breather.
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #154  
Finally, keep your nurse tank and your tractor tanks as full as you can. If you fill a tractor, fill the nurse tank that day, and ASAP. You are fighting Florida humidity, and the heat and humidity is just really hard on diesel. Any empty space in the tank overnight is going to suck water into your diesel.
Good advice, keeping your bulk tank as full as possible as a partially full tank in a climate with large swings in ambient temperature can and will sweat inside (get condensation on the inner walls, just like a cold glass of beer sweats on the inside of the glass above the liquid and it drips down into the liquid (in the case of diesel) and with diesel collects on the bottom of the tank and when you draw diesel from the tank, it gets sucked up with the fuel. Why I have my pickup tube for the pump a couple inches off the tank bottom btw as I cannot refill the tank with a little bit because my diesel supplier has a minimum150 gallon fill or they impose a surcharge. I never fill mine completely full either as expansion of cold fuel when it expands can cause it to expand out of the tank and spill out and NEVER weld on any fuel tank, empty or even cleaned inside, you'll never get the vapor out and it will explode. We are professional welders here (I own a machine and fab shop and we NEVER weld on any enclosed tank, fuel or otherwise. Been many 'accidents' happen and welder killed by doing that, well documented also). That includes ANY fuel or solvent tanks. If the tank don't have an existing bung on it, buy or rent a NEW one, no exceptions. Finally, I'm not at all keen on the vapor collectors as fuel vaporized much sooner than water and the internal condensate inside the tank will drop into the fuel, long before it will vaporize and collect in the dessicant collector. It will drop into the fuel and collect in the bottom of the tank. Why I have a bung with a valve at the bottom of mine and drain it off monthly and my tank is sitting slightly off level with the drain bung at the lowest point and I still have a filter on the pump head and still use a Racor style filter on my tractors. Never too many filters. Like I said, an ounce of cure is worth a pound of foolishness. Never had a water or debris in fuel issue except one time and that cost me a grand in replacement parts and I did the grunt work myself and had to have all my injectors rebuilt as well. That was years ago when parts were actually reasonably priced. Your choice, actually anyone's choice. Pay me now or cry later.
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #155  
This is the 'nurse tank' that I have. Maybe I should call it a 'transfer tank'.

Lots of good ideas and suggestions here. Thanks! Now, I am considering having a welder build me a new tank with a sump and a drain at the bottom and a port for a desiccant/breather.
You can buy or rent a bulk tank from almost every fuel supplier and they rent cheap. Your 'transfer tank' is small compared to the one I have in my farm truck. Mine is diamond plate aluminum and it's a 175 gallon and it's for sale btw. It has a manual diaphragm pump on it as well and it's polished aluminum with hold down tabs for hard mounting in the bed. I don't use it anymore as my tractors get really good fuel 'mileage' so I can get home if they need filled an if not, a plastic 5 gallon fuel can gets me back 100% of the time. We didn't build it, I bought it and it's an EPA certified tank as well. I paid around a grand for it new, I want 500 for it and you pick it up or I can ship it for an additional cost. It's mint, no dent's no leaks. I'm in southern Michigan but I can ship it anywhere for the ship price. Has a lockable pressure venting fill cap and the pump is lockable as well. If anyone is interested you can shoot me an email at sales@flipmeisters.com and I'll reply and I guarantee it's pristine or I'll give you your money back.
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #156  
Not a shamelss ad either as I don't offer my services or sell anything on this site. What we do, we have way more business than we can handle anyway. We deal with automotive suppliers and heavy construction companies. We are booked out through next fall right now and they are all bid jobs, except the motorcycle accessories I make myself and those are sold on Flea-Bay or through my .com website. Nothing I make myself is of interest to anyone on here anyway and yes, I hold patents on the stuff as well, for what a patent is worth today which is basically nothing. Not when you have the Chinese copying everything and selling it for less.
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #157  
Have you ever thought of a Mr. Funnel?

They can be a little slow but if you purchase the largest size it has a higher flow rate (15gpm). There is also always some fuel left over in the bottom of the funnel that needs to be dumped. They also filter any sediment. It may be a quick solution until you obtain something more permanent for your bulk storage.

Home
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #158  
If your storage tank is tilted a bit any water below the fuel will run down to the low end. If that end also has the intake for the pump and hose, the water will go into the tractor. But if it's tilted backwards the water will run to the other end, and if you have a drain there you can drain some of it out (not all unless the drain is on the bottom of the tank instead of the side).

When the tank heats up the air expands and some goes out the vent. When it cools, the air contracts and air is inhaled. If that air's got a lot of water in it and the metal of the tank cools below the dew point, water will condense on the tank walls. This is why you want to keep the tank full- there's less volume of air.

Reducing the tanks daily temperature change would reduce the amount of air the tank breathes in and out each day, and thus the amount of water. Painting it white or putting it in the shade or both would help.
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060 #159  
great suggestions, tilting the tank would be easy to do with shims on the side the pick up is located on.
 
   / Water in fuel causes $10,000 damage to my Kubota Grand L6060
  • Thread Starter
#160  
I do have the larger Mr. Funnel. It is a bit cumbersome to use, because it is slow, and there is always some fuel left in the bottom of it.

Most of the time, the truck that the transfer tank is mounted on, is parked so that it is slightly tilted so that the 'pick-up' tube is on the high side. But sometimes, tilting the truck is not possible, especially when on a job site.

I have ordered 2 of the 'New Pig' water absorbing tubes. I will put one in the tank tomorrow.

I did try pumping from the bottom of the tank with a 12volt pump, but that pump quit working. I have a new pump, and I may try that again when I have time.
 
 
Top