Water in engine oil

[muddstopper]

I ran across a old trencher with an air cooled deultz 4cyl engine. This thing has been sitting for a few years. I am wanting the engine for a project, but when I pulled the dipstick, it had a lot of grayish sludge on it. Since the engine is aircooled, I suspect the moisture is condensation, or possibly rain water that has somehow gotten into the engine. It would be a lot of work to pull this engine and just wondering if it would even be worth the effort. Its a 64hp motor and if i can get it to run would make a good hydraulic pump puller. I'll know today once I get the backhoe attachment off if the engine is locked down, which if it is, I aint going to fool with it. If it isnt locked down, I am just wondering how much possible internal damage there could be since the engine oil does show signs of moisture. I should note, the gray sludge isnt at the top level mark of the dipstick, but only on the bottem end so the crankcase isnt completely full of water. Has anybody ever rebuilt one of the aircooled dueltz engines and what kind of cost should I expect if i decide to do a teardown and rebuild. I will only be paying scrap prices for the engine and it is complete except for a battery.

 

[muddstopper]

Never mind, engine locked down and not worth fooling with

 

[davedj1]

dump in some Marvel Mystery Oil and start her up!

 

[muddstopper]

This thing has been setting for several years. The exhaust manifold was open to the elements where it could rain straight into the motor. I would guess that with water entering the cylinder via the exhaust valves, then running down into the crankcase, it will probably take more than Marvel mystery oil to get things back to working.

 

[davedj1]

Bummer!

 

[Renze]

dump in some Marvel Mystery Oil and start her up!

We use DOT4 brake fluid on seized old Diesels. through the injector holes, let it sit for 2 weeks, blow the remains out with an air nozzle through the injector holes, plug injectors back, tow start and when it runs, change the oil because the brake fluid that seeped along the piston rings to the sump, will break down the engine oil.

 

[muddstopper]

If I owned this engine, and didnt have to buy it first, I might try some of the things being mentioned. I am not willing to pay out cash on a "maybe I can get it running." Now if I did own it, I would probably mix up some dextron and alcohol to pour into the cylinders. Let it sit for a few day and then take a huge breaker bar and start rocking the crankshaft back and forth until I could get it to turn completely over. I did this once with a gas powered auger that had locked down. Once i got the engine to turn over, I just kept spinning it over and over until would spin freely. I then put a socket on an impact wrench and used that to spin the crank for a few minutes. Put the spark plug back in, primed it with gas and it fired right up. Smoked like the dickens for a few minutes, and then cleared up, it still runs like new when I need it.

I have never had a duetz engine apart. I assume it is like most diesels and has sleeves in the cylinders. With all that rain water running down thru the exhaust valves, I suspect the sleeves would be pitted and rusted pretty bad, so even if I did get it running, it would probably be a oil burner. I do know we have used the aircooled duetz engines at work for years and they run forever. Biggest thing that ever seems to go wrong with one is the bearing will go out in the fan blower or the fuel pump will go bad. The small 3 and 4 cylinder engines would run forever on a tank of fuel. The 6cyl duetz was a little harder on fuel, but even it was a fuel mizer when compared to the New JohnDeere engines. I am going to keep a check on the duetz, never know the owner might decide to let it go at a give away price and then I might try to do something with it, but most likely it will end up at the scrap yard.

 

[Fawken]

With the exhaust manifold exposed to rain as you say- then yes- even for me it's a paperweight. I'm restoring an old Honda MC at the moment that was seized up for over 15 years. The difference? This one was sitting in a garage so the damage was limited to the cylinder and piston. Also the entire cylinder on these old bikes is cast iron whereas many small industrial type, air-cooled engines have a cast iron sleeve. Likely, damage is ruined valves, valve guides, cam shaft, cylinder and piston.

 

[muddstopper]

A stuck motor can always suprise you. I have a old 65 huskey chain saw. Been setting in my basement for a couple of years now. When I got it, it was setting, engine down, in a 5gal bucket of water. Locked up tighter than dicks hatband. Yesterday on a whim. My buddy talked me into tearing it down. I removed the sparkplug and filled with dextron, then removed the chain and bar, and starter cord. Put a wrench on the clutch side of the crank. Rocked it back and forth a few times and it broke loose. Um, OK, carb linkage stuck, so soaked it with dextron, a little wiggleing and it freed up. Decided to do a complete tear down, cyl and piston slick as new, ring free floating. Didnt have proper tool for removeing flywheel so took it to a guy that works on these thing. He looked it over and said, this saw should run, have it ready Monday. If it runs, I have a good saw for very cheap, if it doesnt, havent lost anything. Just because its stuck, doesnt mean its junk. Dextron in cyl bores does wonders for freeing up stuck motors.