Warn plow conversion from ATV to RTV

[Tkblacktail]

With the new tractor "on board" I'm able to retire my ATV and use it for recreational or admin (to the mail box) uses. I decided to move the 48" Warn Snow plow over to the RTV 500; thought I would share.


View attachment 349310

I got 12 good years of heavy-duty use out of the snow blade; way more than what it was designed-for......


The mounting on the RTV was the only issue to deal-with; I re-used everything from the Honda ATV mounting assembly. I cut @ 2 feet off the tubes and welded the back portion of the mounting tubes onto to the front portion of the mount.

My son in law came over with his equipment and put a real welding job on the assembly as my welds look more like an obsidian field.

-View attachment 349305View attachment 349306View attachment 349307

Since the blade has a sharper pitch, I had to modify the angel-locking lever and remove some of the material on the mount in order to clear the blade's new attack angle.

1/4" on either-side of the interior portion of the Honda mounting bracket had to be removed (angle grinder) in order for the mount to fit around the front differential on the RTV, but I found plenty of room under the front bumper to drill and mount with 4 bolts. One thing I realized was the front receiver pins will not be accessible when the mount is installed.

My son in law was satisfied with dinner in exchange for the welding job; good deal as far as I'm concerned, but I slipped some cash into my daughter's coat-pocket before they left.

Sub-freezing out today so I will upload the final pics; everything works well.

 

[timswi]

With the new tractor "on board" I'm able to retire my ATV and use it for recreational or admin (to the mail box) uses. I decided to move the 48" Warn Snow plow over to the RTV 500; thought I would share.


View attachment 349310

I got 12 good years of heavy-duty use out of the snow blade; way more than what it was designed-for......


The mounting on the RTV was the only issue to deal-with; I re-used everything from the Honda ATV mounting assembly. I cut @ 2 feet off the tubes and welded the back portion of the mounting tubes onto to the front portion of the mount.

My son in law came over with his equipment and put a real welding job on the assembly as my welds look more like an obsidian field.

-View attachment 349305View attachment 349306View attachment 349307

Since the blade has a sharper pitch, I had to modify the angel-locking lever and remove some of the material on the mount in order to clear the blade's new attack angle.

1/4" on either-side of the interior portion of the Honda mounting bracket had to be removed (angle grinder) in order for the mount to fit around the front differential on the RTV, but I found plenty of room under the front bumper to drill and mount with 4 bolts. One thing I realized was the front receiver pins will not be accessible when the mount is installed.

My son in law was satisfied with dinner in exchange for the welding job; good deal as far as I'm concerned, but I slipped some cash into my daughter's coat-pocket before they left.

Sub-freezing out today so I will upload the final pics; everything works well.

Do you think 48" is enough width?..My RTV500 had a 60". Not being critical as this is a real job to convert, that I'm sure...Nice job.

 

[Tkblacktail]

"Do you think 48" is enough width?..My RTV500 had a 60". Not being critical as this is a real job to convert, that I'm sure...Nice job."

10-4, the vehicle does stick-out some on either side of the blade; I figure on adding 6" on each side and amalgamate it with a new sacrificial strip at the bottom, or simply add a new 60" blade to the mount, some time in the future.

We are expecting snow tomorrow, so I will get to test it soon.

 

[Tkblacktail]

Well, I'm almost done.

I have to do some more work on the mounting because the blade does not stay level-enough as it fully-pivots to the left or right (although not depicted very well in these pics).

I think I need to lower the mounts an inch or two by removing the stock tangs and welding extended tangs of the same thickness.


View attachment 349939View attachment 349940

Then I plan to add 6" of mud flaps or thick rubber on each end; tie them in with the blade with 2" of overlap, carriage bolts, and by adding a new 60" sacrificial strip.

 

[timswi]

Nice job...I put a piece of rubber between the sacrifice strip and the blade..Makes a nice squeegee especially on solid surfaces and also prevents gravel digging.

I think you can see it here:

EDIT: Actually, I made a new strip (Lowes stock that I welded) and bolted the rubber between it and the factory blade strip..Forgot to mention that..The bolts and nuts are stainless so that the rubber can be flipped...It's a spent piece of industrial machine belt....All kinds of fun to cut.

 

[aczlan]

Nice...

Aaron Z

 

[Tkblacktail]

Nice job...I put a piece of rubber between the sacrifice strip and the blade..Makes a nice squeegee especially on solid surfaces and also prevents gravel digging.

I think you can see it here: View attachment 349951

EDIT: Actually, I made a new strip (Lowes stock that I welded) and bolted the rubber between it and the factory blade strip..Forgot to mention that..The bolts and nuts are stainless so that the rubber can be flipped...It's a spent piece of industrial machine belt....All kinds of fun to cut.

Great idea, thanks!

I will need that too; because of what you like about it and because I removed the safety feature that allows the blade to tip forward (and loudly slam back) such as when/if a solid object is hit. I'm strictly on flat surfaces now; no more slash-pile work for this implement.

I'll keep my "eyes peeled" for the rubber....

 

[timswi]

Great idea, thanks!

I will need that too; because of what you like about it and because I removed the safety feature that allows the blade to tip forward (and loudly slam back) such as when/if a solid object is hit. I'm strictly on flat surfaces now; no more slash-pile work for this implement.

I'll keep my "eyes peeled" for the next semi-truck re-tread I see on the road....

I've heard of Tractor Supply horse mat rubber being used for this too...Be careful without the springs, even plowing snow...Abrupt stops can still happen, that'll leave a mark..I'm not a safety police type, but my springs have hit pretty good on ice and stuff when moving snow..The rubber helps that but doesn't solve it.

 

[aczlan]

I've heard of Tractor Supply horse mat rubber being used for this too...Be careful without the springs, even plowing snow...Abrupt stops can still happen, that'll leave a mark..I'm not a safety police type, but my springs have hit pretty good on ice and stuff when moving snow..The rubber helps that but doesn't solve it.

Ayep. We have a plow on our BX2660 with trip springs and even going slower in the BX than you would in the RTV I have almost hit the windshield of the BX a time or two...

Aaron Z

 

[Tkblacktail]

Ayep. We have a plow on our BX2660 with trip springs and even going slower in the BX than you would in the RTV I have almost hit the windshield of the BX a time or two...

Aaron Z

The preponderance of evidence presented here has convinced me to re-install the safety feature; thanks gents.

 

[timswi]

The preponderance of evidence presented here has convinced me to re-install the safety feature; thanks gents.

Cool--Your teeth, nose, plow and mounting assembly will thank you...Amazing how stubborn a frozen baseball size pile of limestone or dirt can be until you hit one...

 

[SpudHauler]

After 4 years of plowing snow with my 900 and then 1100 I have some thoughts on your mods. I modified my Curtis plow extensively and had a setup much like yours on my ATV with a winch years before.

Not being critical, just constructive ideas.

Seems your blade is tipped back too far, generally the top edge of the bade is directly above the bottom edge. This helps to roll the snow out front of the blade. Yours many let the snow spill over the top and back in between it and the front of the RTV.

I like the blade to be farther away from the front tires. Reason being you can push snow into a ditch without running the tires into the ditch. A good 18" to 24" inches out front allows the plow to be out over the ditch with your tires still on pavement. Safer, less getting stuck equals more fun.

The blade issue is one I had trouble with too. The pivot plate must be dead level when everything is attached and the blade resting on the level ground that the RTV is also sitting on. Otherwise it swings up on one end and digs in on the other when you swing left/right.

Extra width is better on the blade because you get yourself jammed in with a narrow blade. Hard to explain but running your tires into the snow bank when trying to turn a little left or right or when backing up will soon show you what I mean.

As for the winch, a 10 ft line is all you need and it's easier than having 50' of line all messed up and bunching and jammed up. Cut 10' off your 50' line and just use that. In the summer run the 40' line back on.

I would run the line from the winch up to a pulley where you have the shackle and then down to the plow. This way it will lift and lower faster because the way you are doing it now is doubled up which also doubles the pulling power but takes twice as much line to wind in.

I eventually geared up a switch on the frame that contacted the arm when the plow was at it's highest point. The switch cut the power to the lift side of the winch switch stopping the winch from winding up. It would go down on the down button but lift no higher. On my ATV I ruined 2 winch mounts over winding the winch thinking the plow was not up all the way. It was trying to pull the winch right out of its mounts.

Hope this helps.

Plowing snow is so much fun!!!

Merry Christmas

 

[Tkblacktail]

99.99999% done.

I welded longer mounting points (6"LX8"HX10"C2 triangles) onto the back end of the assembly and the blade stays perfectly level in all positions; an 8" drop from the mounting-point under the bumper. I also adjusted the attack angle, re-installed the safety springs, added new blade skids, and re-routed the cable as recommended.

I gave all the moving parts a shot of wool-wax.

All I need now is a 60" strip of conveyor belt (following a lead), to find that 8' piece of 1/4" cable I dropped somewhere on the woodlot, and some snow.

Much thanks for all the help!

I have time to go angling for steelheads.............

 

[SpudHauler]

We need pictures as proof you know.

Just kidding, hope it all works out, was thinking I had said too much and you were upset.

Great news!!!

 

[Tkblacktail]

We need pictures as proof you know.

Just kidding, hope it all works out, was thinking I had said too much and you were upset.

The exact opposite my friend!

I shed my appreciation for complete-congruence and "group-think" a few years ago.

I'll get some pics of it today; have to remove the blade because all I have on my driveway are fir cones, needles, and moss.

 

[Tkblacktail]

Well here are the pics;

View attachment 353083View attachment 353085View attachment 353086View attachment 353087View attachment 353084

I'll post the final pics when I finish the 6" extensions on either side.

Thanks again for all the help :thumbsup:

 

[SpudHauler]

Now all you need is snow!!!

One thing I would do is unhook the end of the cable from up on the cross frame at the top and just hook it to the bottom mount on the pivot plate.

You don't need to double up the cable like that. The winch is plenty strong and it will lift and lower quicker.

Enjoy!!!

 

[madmax12]

Now all you need is snow!!!

One thing I would do is unhook the end of the cable from up on the cross frame at the top and just hook it to the bottom mount on the pivot plate.

You don't need to double up the cable like that. The winch is plenty strong and it will lift and lower quicker.

Enjoy!!!

That would prevent any potential slipping of the cable off the reduction pulley, as well. One less potential headache. Looks really good. Great job!

 

[Tkblacktail]

That would prevent any potential slipping of the cable off the reduction pulley, as well. One less potential headache. Looks really good. Great job!

Thanks for all the compliments and ideas,

Building on the idea to eliminate the lower pulley, and on the idea to use a shorter cable; I could simply make a more permanent 10' cable-attachment to the blade through the pin where that lower pulley currently is, run the free-running end of the cable up and through the snatch block, then into the blank winch spool. That way, the entire assembly is always all together (on a pallet) when I need it.

That is what I call synergy friends! :dance1:

Dragging the cable out (greasing, sliding on the winch-saver, and rewinding it) every time I dismount the blade may be good training and good PM, but it is getting old; I cannot squeeze the cable or kneel down that long any more.....:ashamed:

Thanks, I'll upload pics if it snows.

This project compelled me to fix my flux-core mig welder; the spool was too tight and the wire sleeve needed repair.

 

[SpudHauler]

Yes I like that idea of a short cable. That 50' cable will soon get bunched up on the winch spool after a month of use. Then it binds on the cross bolts that hold the winch together making it very hard to get free. Been there done that.

The other point would be the 6" extensions. I found my last mode to my plow left the plow close to the front bumper and hard to see the corners. Wished after it was another 6" out further.

So, remove your 2 attachment bolts and simply slide the blade out the 6" you are expecting to add and see if your line of sight is good and you will be happy with that. Then try another 6" to see if it improves. At this point going 6" or 18" farther out is not big difference to the operation of plowing but could make it easier for you.

Remember the pivot has to be level, as you now know, when you add your extensions. So get the level out again and check.

Fun eh!!!

Here is a link to some of the fun I had getting my plow closer to what I wanted.

https://picasaweb.google.com/118373...authkey=Gv1sRgCMTUq9ii5dznlAE&feat=directlink

And here is a 2004 picture of my Honda 450 with a Moose snowplow. Rubber flap keeps snow from blowing back. And the extra cable you see is a clothesline cable used to remotely pull the locking pin so I could bump the corner of the plow against the snow bank to change the angle. Too lazy to get off and do it. ha ha ha


This switch cut the power to the lift side of the winch when the bar on the plow arm came into contact. I was bending winch mounting plates trying to lift the plow too high.