Want to drill hole in pallet fork for trailer ball.

[Scooby074]

Always seen the holes cut with torches.

Then the forks themselves cut up with torches when the safety folks saw them.:laughing: Cut forks were a no no at work.

 

[Deere Dude]

Maybe a better option is to make something that will slip on the end of the fork, with the ball attachment, and put a chain from there to the mast to hold it on. You could put it on and take it off fairly quick, and you would not have to destroy one of your forks....

I made something to fit over the end of both forks when they are about a foot apart and then chain hooks that to the mast. It takes about a minute a set it up and is very stable. Screwing a ball in every time it is used and unscrewing would seem to be time consuming, and the ball can't stay on.

 

[Mysfyt]

i've got conventional forks and they drilled ok in a Bridgeport mill. A lot of drill presses run too fast for a 3/4 inch drill. Find an online calculator for RPM to stay under 100 SFM with a 3/4 drill. Any lubricant is better than dry.

Exactly! Forklift forks are case hardened but really not that hard to drill. Done it to several forklifts.

 

[Walkin Horse]

You don't say what size tractor you have. I would wonder will your tractor pickup a loaded trailer 4' from the pins. And do you want to put that weight on one side of your loader or will you move the fork to the center.

 

[LD1]

I agree, just torch them if you have torches.

If not, forklift forks arent really as hard as people think. They have to be able to flex. Sure, they are a little harder, and tougher than mild steel, but a HSS bit should work just fine. Just keep an eye on the color of the chips. Straw color is good, blue is bad. Keep the bit cool with lube. And dont step sizes up. Small pilot hole slightly larger than the chisel point on the bit, then punch the 3/4 through.

100SFM is a good speed reference as long as you have a machine with the power to remove a good chip. Heat is removed through chips. If you have a little benchtop drillpress, those lack the power in larger bits so you can apply too much pressure. That combined with too fast and you toast the bit. A 3/4" bit will run 500RPM as long as you have power to cut. A benchtop does not. With a small press I wouldnt run that bit more than 200-250 RPM.

 

[bigtiller]

I agree with LD1.

I drilled a one & quarter inch hole on a fork from a 5000 lb Hyster forklift, with a mag-drill and an annular cutter. This was my first time and I was very surprised at how easy it was.

Drill it with a sharp bit and i think you will be surprised too.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I did the same thing and punched it with a hole saw! Then welded a bar onto the nut so you can tighten it works slick, welded a chunk of square tube for it to sit in and it stays with the forks.

I think i even used the cordless drill! The one inch works well as it will move a little and gives you nice fit.

 

[olllotj]

I bought one of those slip on the fork reciever hitch deals. It really doesn't work that well. i gave up on it. If you are moving any sort of heavy trailer the fork flexes too much for my liking. I think you would be better off welding a reciever tube to the top of your bucket, or fork frame, or even bolting your ball to the top of your bucket.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Test to see if its possible to post with the new system.

 

[varmint]

I see a lot of SSQA pallet forks with a receiver tube welded in the center bottom of the frame- just lift off the forks, insert your hitch, and go.