Wallenstien Chipper blades

   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #11  
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #12  
I use 40 for the first couple of passes then 60. I have a Harbor Freight machine that took a little tweaking to get it just right like most of their stuff but it has been working great for several years now.
 
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #13  
WoW!! It's 70F here. All this talk. So I went out and removed, inspected and reinstalled the stationary blade. After seven years of use it is sharp as a razor and straight as an arrow. A chunk of some super hard steel has been welded on the leading edges of the stationary blade.

There just isn't any real way of satisfactorily checking the stationary blade without removing it. Too much pitch & gunk down there. And it's too tight a spot to get my hand down there and run my finger up/down the blade.
 
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   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #14  
I use 40 for the first couple of passes then 60. I have a Harbor Freight machine that took a little tweaking to get it just right like most of their stuff but it has been working great for several years now.

I have a Bearcat as well and have had difficulty finding someone who can sharpen the blades. Found someone a distance away and for what it would cost to sharpen the two sets I have, been looking for a way to do it myself. Belt sander and dipping them periodically to keep cool seemed like a decent option. Glad you have had luck with it. I'll check out what HF has to offer.
 
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #15  
I bought my Wallenstein from the local Kubota dealership. They provide sharpening. Not sure what the cost is.
 
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades
  • Thread Starter
#16  
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #17  
WoW!! It's 70F here. All this talk. So I went out and removed, inspected and reinstalled the stationary blade. After seven years of use it is sharp as a razor and straight as an arrow. A chunk of some super hard steel has been welded on the leading edges of the stationary blade.

There just isn't any real way of satisfactorily checking the stationary blade without removing it. Too much pitch & gunk down there. And it's too tight a spot to get my hand down there and run my finger up/down the blade.

What's involved removing the stationary blade? I have a BX62. Thanks
 
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #18  
I have a Bearcat as well and have had difficulty finding someone who can sharpen the blades. Found someone a distance away and for what it would cost to sharpen the two sets I have, been looking for a way to do it myself. Belt sander and dipping them periodically to keep cool seemed like a decent option. Glad you have had luck with it. I'll check out what HF has to offer.


I put a damp shop towel on the bench next to the machine and when the blade starts to heat up I put it on the towel and fold it over. Thet cools it pretty quick and don't have to worry about the temper of the blade.
 
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades
  • Thread Starter
#19  
WoW!! It's 70F here. All this talk. So I went out and removed, inspected and reinstalled the stationary blade. After seven years of use it is sharp as a razor and straight as an arrow. A chunk of some super hard steel has been welded on the leading edges of the stationary blade.

There just isn't any real way of satisfactorily checking the stationary blade without removing it. Too much pitch & gunk down there. And it's too tight a spot to get my hand down there and run my finger up/down the blade.

I was able to easily flip the 4 blades on the rotating drum inside the chipper. They were pretty dull and the other side was brand new. Hopefully this helps the chipping process go smoother. There was no adjustment to these blades..they only go in one way and in one spot. I need to look at how the stationary blade bolts in as it probably needs to be flipped if possible or sharpened.
 
   / Wallenstien Chipper blades #20  
Be sure to remove and check the stationary blade. On my BX62 it takes a 3/4" socket. I used a large breaker bar. Old dry paint & locTite hold the three bolts pretty tight. Three bolts out - grab the blade with a set of pliers and pull. Notice the blade has a hardened steel bar welded on each edge. Thereby giving all four edges a hardened edge. Pop the blade back in its pocket. New LocTite on the bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts. Align the blade using the old paint line. With flashlight - look down and see how the rotating blades cut past the stationary blade. Specs say - 1/32" to 1/16". Finish tightening the three bolts

I have mine set closer to 1/16". I cut only green pines. If you will be cutting hardwoods - I suggest, closer to 1/32".
 

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