vermeer 505 super i baler problem that i can't figure out.

[Timm250]

Did you change the bearings on the opposite side at the same time?

 

[scf84]

Did you change the bearings on the opposite side at the same time?

yep

 

[5030]

May I ask what you think chain lube was designed to accomplish but to lube chains? IMHO engine oil utilized to lubricate rd baler chains can be messy & possibly create a fire hazard. I've utilized spray chain lube to lubricate my rd baler drive chains for many years.

NH and everyone else recommends motor oil for chain lube and do it when the chains are warm from use, not cold. Spray chain lube on a cold chain don't penetrate the roller bearings all that well.

Never had issue one using motor oil, in fact my brand new Kubota (Kneverland) round bailer recommends using SUDT in the chain lube pump reservoir. Using motor oil and warm chains, I've never had to adjust chain slack on any of my old bailers. I oil them let them sit and wipe them down with a disposable shop towel to remove the excess. Probably won't be necessary with my new Kubota bailer as the chain oil is metered constantly. It also has one shot greasing for all the bearings except the bearings on the net assembly. Out of 20 fittings I have to hand grease 3 plus the driveline and CV joint. You get that stuff when you shell out 45 grand for a new bailer.

I never wash a bailer either. Just blow the chaff off, grease the driveline parts and put it in the barn. Water is the enemy of bearings on any bailer. Chains too.

 

[5030]

I have to say that I've never let my bailer or any of my hay tools get as filthy as the one pictured. As dirty as any of my hay tools ever get.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

We took all belts off and got them the correct length. Never had a new bales. Always run these 2000 dollar jobs. I think your roller that moves is not moving smoothly and giving the appearance of slack. Also make sure tensioner has full range of motion and a smooth action. Check for stretched springs and broke springs. I think the belt roller that moves is hanging in its movement. It keeps constant tension. It should follow that bale as it gets made. Hay bales aren't round while being made.

 

[Tx Jim]

NH and everyone else recommends motor oil for chain lube and do it when the chains are warm from use, not cold. Spray chain lube on a cold chain don't penetrate the roller bearings all that well.

Applying engine oil on a "cold chain" doesn't penetrate chains all that well either. Just because equipment manufacturers recommend utilizing engine oil to oil chains doesn't prove engine oil penetrates/lubricates chains better than chain lube. Do you have any real proof or just your opinion?
Rd baler I traded for present baler had 30,000 bales on the monitor & present baler has 28,700+ on monitor so chain lube on chains can't be ALL BAD.!! Many yrs back I owned a rd baler with an automatic chain oiler kit that utilized engine oil for lubricant that the chains wore out quickly therefore I quit utilizing engine oil & switched to aerosol chain lube. I've been utilizing chain lube on my baler chains since then

Hey Engine Man – How Should I Maintain Roller Chain?

Successful Farming Magazine's Engine Man, Ray Bohacz, provide advise on roller chain maintenance

www.agriculture.com

 

[5030]

Whatever blows your dress up. How I do it and what you do are 2 distinctly different things and as far as setting a bailer on fire because of excess oil on the chains, I doubt that. Round bailer fires are caused by running dry crop at maximum diameter and the friction between the side sheets and the dry crop causes combustion to take place in the bale chamber and thus roasts the bailer. Has nothing even remotely to do with the drive chains at all. I run maximum diameter all the time but in net and I reduce the pto rpm substantially when wrapping a bale so as not to keep the fully developed bale spinning in the bale chamber at rated pto speed which contributes to the chance of combustion. I just increase the wraps to compensate for reduced rpm to get 2.5 complete wraps on a bale.... and I regularly stop bailing and 'feel' the temperature of the side sheets to see if they are getting too hot. Probably don't need 2.5 wraps, 1.5 would suffice but my bales get handled numerous times so the 2.5 is insurance that the bales stay intact and I use '52 over the edge net anyway because some of them are stored outside. Only been doing it 30 years now. Not a newbie by a long shot. On my 4th round bailer btw. I trade them off every 5 years while they still have value. Always buy new, never used and when I trade them in, they are 100% field ready and serviced and I get top buck for them always. Never replaced a chain or bearing on any of them but I keep my chains properly tensioned as well.

This last one I traded in for the Kubota (Kneverland) premium net twine bailer, my dealer actually gave me more than what I thought it was worth but then he knows how I take care of my equipment so he set the trade in value accordingly. Not me.

 

[Tx Jim]

You might wear a dress but I don't. If you've been rd baling for 30 yrs & trade balers every 5 yrs & you're on your 4th baler something doesn't calculate correctly. 4 balers X 5 yrs of ownership each calculates to 20 yrs rd baling not 30 yrs
You continue to make incorrect statements. I never stated excess chain lubrication oil caused fires but excess oil is another FUEL for a fire if it starts. If you'll perform some research before beginning typing you'll find out that most rd baler fires are caused from ""failed brgs not friction of hay rubbing on baler chamber walls"". I know for sure that balers that I have owned that caught on fire was from a failed brg. I was fortunate to save all the ones that caught on fire except one. All baler brands are susceptible to catch on fire & burn.

I've been rd baling since before JD introduced rd balers in 1975 with well over 150,000 rd bales completed. My 1st rd baling experience was with a Hawkbilt that rolled hay on the ground. Trading every 5 yrs isn't the important thing to me but cost per bale is important to me. My baler is an '05 with 28,700+ bales on the monitor & I'm in the twilight of my hay baling career & have no intention of trading it off.

 

[cowski]

chains appear too loose. take a link out. oiling i use motor oil, burnt motor oil , hydraulic fluid used hydraulic fluid and gear oil, can chain lube and chainsaw oil. i actually think chainsaw oil last longest. i use which ever ones convenient. but what really matters is chain quality . better chain lasts longer and makes sprockets last longer.