Venting propane water heater in basement through top of basement wall?

[KYErik]

I was offered a 4 month old propane water heater and since my electric water heater is getting old and I have a propane furnace in the basement, I was considering taking it IF I can avoid running the vent pipe through the first floor and out the roof.

First of all, has anyone converted from electric to propane water heat and had regrets?

Would it be safe to run the flue pipe out the top of the basement wall and then another 24" horizontally (once it is through the siding) to get it beyond the gutter/edge of the roof? Total horizontal distance would be less than 48".

Would I have to use 45 degree elbows to keep the cooling exhuast gasses moving upward?

Would the west or east side of the house be better for avoiding a possible downdraft (carbon monoxide) or would it not matter as long as the top of the flue was above the level of the peak of the roof?

I saw that they do sell draft assist fans for water heaters. Anyone have experience with one of these?

 

[Deere Dude]

It all depends on the style as to how it needs to be vented.

They cannot be near windows. 45s would be better than 90s but how would you go through the wall with 45s.

I love LP water heaters and wouldn't have an electric. Fast recovery. Running a gas water heater and gas stove for the last 8 years in Wisconsin generally cost $125 for gas for the year. Have gas furnace but used fireplace mostly.

 

[robstaples]

Does it have a fan built into it on the top of the heater? Or a traditional high exit gas temp heater? ( burner at bottom, straight up to a 3 inch exit) The fan models dilute the exit gas temp so you can use pvc to vent flue gas.
If it isn't a pvc vent model, I'd go price a new pvc model and see how much the free one is saving you. With installation and code issues, a free traditional type may not be worth it.

Water heat performance, you'll like gas better than electric.

 

[davesl708]

You are going to need to comply with your local building codes on this project.
Install it wrong and you could have problems down the road. If you sell it could be a problem or if a fire starts insurance could decline to cover the damages.

 

[Egon]

You are going to need to comply with your local building codes on this project.
Install it wrong and you could have problems down the road. If you sell it could be a problem or if a fire starts insurance could decline to cover the damages.

Pay attention. This is what has to be met.

 

[jfh28]

installation is going to depend on the type of gas hwh that it is.....condensing.....non-condensing.....high efficiency......since it is only 4 months old you should be able to easily obtain the installation manual online at the manufacturers website..........this will tell you the clearances required as well as the distances/elbows allowed.......keep in mind that horizontal is never really horizontal as there needs to be a pitch for when the gases condense so the condensate can run back down to the hwh....otherwise it will sit in the pipe and corrode it out in no time......the manual as well as local codes will tell you what is required.........I replaced an electric hwh with a tankless lp unit and would never go back to electric........operating cost is easily a third less as well as having an unending supply of hot water........Jack

 

[mapper]

Does your furnace have an double wall metal flue? If so you may be able to install a Y fitting in it and use it for both HW and furnace, that is the setup in my house. It was built this way by the contractor and passed inspection so I know it meets code in WA.

 

[KYErik]

No, the furnace is high efficiency and has a 2" PVC pipe vent through the top of the basement wall-it has a combustion blower.

 

[joeyd]

I don't know what your building codes would call for but as far as venting out the side here is a pic of the vents for my propane FAU which is in my basement. You can run them up to the floor joist space then out of the siding. The vents are to the right of the steps in the picture.

 

[KYErik]

joeyD-thanks for the pic- that's exactly what I'd like to do with my water heater flue. Does your propane furnace have a power draft or a combustion blower?

I'm leaning toward getting the heater and venting the flue through the basement wall using a draft inducer like this one (about $80) Tjernlund Blower, Draft Inducer DJ-3 | Zoro.com

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Am I missing something in this or are others missing? The OP did not say what kind of gas WH he is getting free. Is it a standard combustion or a condensing combustion type? Two totally different scenarios. He states his furnace is a condensing type so his low intake and exhaust at the foundation works except when covered with snow. Just adding a blower to the WH can create another problem if the WH is not designed for it or the fan is too small or too large. Flue vents are a balanced event based of relative static pressures. More research is in the best interest to save having problems. Free is not always free. Check the price on multi wall vent pipe before you go through the roof (sic).

Ron

 

[Coyote machine]

Here's what I would do: Take the model # and some pics of the furnace installation, along with pics and model # of the new propane furnace you plan to install, (showing existing venting inside and outside on your house) to a local plumbing supply house, and see what they tell you as to what you should do to comply with your local codes.
Venting propane appliances is absolutely crucial that the work and venting materials are correct or illness or death could result. If you have to, hire a professional. Remember carbon monoxide is odorless, colorless, and tasteless, and deadly to humans and pets.

BTW, just slapping a blower into a ducting run is not necessarily the solution to your particular application, as stated by Tractor Seabee. Do it right, or don't do it at all.:thumbsup:

 

[ozley]

I would skip the supply house you really do not who you are talking to. I would go down to the the building inspectors office and get the codes from them.

 

[Coyote machine]

OK, skip the supply house and go to the building inspector's office and get the specs needed to comply with the codes, THEN go to the supply house and either buy the parts or find someone licensed to hire to do the work to code, or above. Code is the absolute minimum acceptable outcome.

 

[fitter1]

Get the manufacture's installation manual and follow them precisely.

 

[oosik]

If the gas WH is installed - don't skip the requirement for a CO monitor.

 

[uglyboywith11fingers]

from what I read out of this, the water heater the OP is talking about is NOT the high efficiency type that can be vented horizontally using 2" PVC.
From a safety point of view, I would steer clear of trying to jury-rig a draft inducer on a basic gas water heater.

 

[lt190b]

The OP might contact his propane supplier in regard to his installation. they could be very helpful since they deal with gas appliances daily. There could be rebates for switching from elect to propane. When I built my house. there was a rebate on the furnace and the hot water heater.

 

[KYErik]

I will definietly get a CO monitor/alarm.

I picked up the heater today. It is a Bradford White 40 gallon model MI40T6FTX- just a plain propane heater- not high efficiency or condensing. Accounding to the serial number, it was made in Feb of 2015. I also got a 6' section of double wall flue pipe and a double wall elbow. The installation manual simply states that the "Natural gas and propane installation code" must be followed, but it costs a few hundred dollars for that reference... I will have to contact a professional to know how to proceed- thanks for the suggestions on contacting my propane supplier or a plumber or plumbing supply company- I'll definitely follow that advice. I'll also check on getting a rebate.

 

[Threepoint]

I will definietly get a CO monitor/alarm.

I picked up the heater today. It is a Bradford White 40 gallon model MI40T6FTX- just a plain propane heater- not high efficiency or condensing. Accounding to the serial number, it was made in Feb of 2015. I also got a 6' section of double wall flue pipe and a double wall elbow. The installation manual simply states that the "Natural gas and propane installation code" must be followed, but it costs a few hundred dollars for that reference... I will have to contact a professional to know how to proceed- thanks for the suggestions on contacting my propane supplier or a plumber or plumbing supply company- I'll definitely follow that advice. I'll also check on getting a rebate.

My first call would be to Bradford-White technical support with the model no. of your WH. Tell them you want to vent horizontally, the length of the run, and the number of bends you'll have to make to clear obstacles and achieve the required clearance from exterior window. Tech support should be able to tell you in a few minutes whether your WH is designed for that, and if so, the maximum length of run for a given diameter pipe, and the number of feet you'll have to subtract from the max to compensate for the number and degree of the angle fittings. I just searched the model number you list on Bradford-White's website and got no results, so I wonder if there is a digit or letter off.

Safety features on LPG and natural gas heaters don't like it when the installation varies from the strict specifications of the manufacturer. Even when there is full compliance, there can be a problem, e.g., an unusual cold air inversion at the mouth of the vent pipe might cause just enough additional back pressure to trip a safety cutoff. Not fun taking a cold shower at 6:00 a.m. on a January morning. :laughing: We have a 22 y/o Bradford-White LPG water heater that was state-of-the-art high efficiency when we installed it with a 25 ft horizontal run to the side of the house to avoid exiting through the front wall. Everything was painstakingly done to spec. Yet, every few days it would just shut down. Drove the subcontractor and the Bradford-White techs nuts swapping out the safety device at least three times. Finally, Bradford-White factory techs hand-built the device especially for our unit. The water heater has worked perfectly ever since, well beyond its expected service life!