valve lash adj

   / valve lash adj #1  

Paddy

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2004
Messages
1,468
Location
Bloomington, IN
Tractor
Kubota, G5200, KAMA 454
Ok, I have fanally started the valve adj and head bolt torquing. Torquing went well. I pulled each one at a time a lubed and installed. On to valve adj. I did as instructed and as soon as the #1 intake closed should be TDC, sure enough, the fly wheel has a mark stamped 1 right a tick mark on the bell housing! After I adj the valves in this position, I need to move 240 deg to find TDC for cyc number 3. Finding 240 degs will be more tricky than just doing the same thing for cyc number 3, just as the intack closes. Could be moot point if the fly wheel is stamped!

Another thought. I think I read if you adj in the small end of the lash range, .25 mm of the .25 to .35mm range, they will wear in to the middle? sound right?
What cha think?
 
   / valve lash adj #2  
Paddy said:
Another thought. I think I read if you adj in the small end of the lash range, .25 mm of the .25 to .35mm range, they will wear in to the middle? sound right?
What cha think?
I'm no expert and can't answer that. I've heard some guys like to set at the larger setting to avoid a tight valve not seating properly.
Myself, I shot right for the middle of the tolerance.
 
   / valve lash adj #3  
I think the gap disappears as teh valve and seat wear together, very little wear takes place on the top of the valve/rocker arm, but of course wear there will increase the gap. Then there are little tings like streatching studs.

I set mine a little to the loose side. heat is transferred from the valve to the head if it is closing properly. if it just barely closes, the valves can burn.
 
   / valve lash adj
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Chip,

Yes. i discussed the point with a friend, former mechanic. He stated what you said. As valves seat the lash gets smaller. As push rods ware, lash gets bigger. I checked mine and they were all a bit tight, so I bet the valves did seat some. None were out too bad though.

Thanks all, I'll put back together monday and see if it sounds right
 
   / valve lash adj
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I re-assembled after the the Head bolt re-torque and valve lash adj. She started up quickly after a quick fuel system blead job. I'd like to say it sounds diff but..Well see how it does under load. She ran well before I started so I'm not looking for change!
 
   / valve lash adj #6  
What kinda Hours do you have on your motor , that you are checking the valve lash adj ? just wondering .
 
   / valve lash adj #7  
Hello and Merry Xmas to all . I usually just lurk on these boards and its funny you kind of know you guys after while.(not always a good thing! just kidding!) The purpose of this post is to tell the guys who are not praticed with lash ( valve ) adjustment about a tool they can buy. A thick and thin feeler guage to make the proper setting. The tool has 2 thickness stamped on the blade. Lets say .025/.030 you take the thin end and if it slides in and meets resistance as you reach the thick you know you are in the ball park. It will help you get a feel for what you are doing until you develop a "feel" . joe ps. tommy! loader works great thanks !
 
   / valve lash adj
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I have about 60+ hours. It has been reccomended here in the board to re-torque the head bolts and check the valve lash at the 50 hr time. They were very close but better safe than sorry. There are alot of "regular" checks that appear non-required. One I still need to do is go over every bolt/nut to insure they are tight. I have found a few loose ones while tinkering. I have also replaced the radiator hoses and rubber Hydro return lines, both showed cracking. These are easy thinks to do in the garage when you are prepared.

Owning a China made tractor requires a little wrench turning. I knew this going in. My dealer, Chip at Artrac, has always been helpful to every silly question I manage to ask.
 
   / valve lash adj #9  
Paddy said:
Owning a China made tractor requires a little wrench turning. I knew this going in. My dealer, Chip at Artrac, has always been helpful to every silly question I manage to ask.

But, the good thing is they run more than they need work. I've got 111 hrs on mine and for the 111 I've probably got 3-4 hrs of maintenance/repair.

Chips a great guy/dealer probably everytime he gets an email from me he's thinking ok, what did he do this time, lol.

What tractor did you get from Chip? I know you mentioned it before but, I forgot.
 
   / valve lash adj #10  
Yeah,when to do it,,yeah the books say do all that within 100 or so,,but,,,,
Yeah,wouldn't hurt to check,generally speaking,,,they might be way tight,,[some were I guess],,,,but still say if your motor runs good,,sounds good,etc,,,they probably ain't no need a doing this till its got 3-400 hrs at least on it,,,,headbolt check,,,seems to me if those bolts were loose,,when you bought it new,,,you would have trouble well before the 50-100 hour mark anyways,,[meaning if you run it for 50-100 hours,,and head gasket ain't leaked and motor sounds good and runs good,,it'll probably stay that way for another 300 or more hours at least],,,,Yeah,I did mine,one of the first,THE first to post about it,,did it at about 100 hrs or so,[I think],,,,thats why I'm saying this. Got 560 hours now,,and ain't planning on doing it again fot awhile.
My toyota trucks got 160,000 miles on it and the valves have never been checked,or head bolts,,,,thingy
 
 
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