Snow Attachments V-plow on a JD 1070. Anyone done it? Too big?

[Jerry1]

Thanks MetalW.S. I've been reading some other threads on similar topics and one thing is confusing me. Some other owners of 1070's with a plow blade use suitcase weights on the front to keep the steering under control. But others told me my v-plow would be too heavy. What does a suitcase weight weigh? And why is weight hanging on the frame desirable but not on the plow? Is it because you're carrying the frame weight, but pushing the plow weight?

I still like the v-plow idea but it does create additional problems. And for the last 30 years I've plowed this driveway with some sort of straight blade, so I think that'll be what I attach to my 1070. Anyone want to buy a v-plow?

 

[Deleted member 216442]

Suitcase weights are about 42 pounds each, and only 4 fit on the front bracket with the 390 blade in place. It is desireable to weight the front wheels, and when you float the blade its weight is off the front wheels. If the blade is angled and floated, it can push the front end sideways, especially going up a steep hill. So assuming you have chains on the front tires you want more weight on the front tires to hold the front end down. The 4 weights are insufficient to plant the front end if you have a heavy rear weight like the backhoe mounted. I've contemplated extending the width of the front bracket to accomodate more suitcase weights for this reason, but haven't bothered yet. JD's extensions are too expensive for my taste and the one website i found selling used ones wants too much for them. I run filled front tires also which adds something like 138 pounds to each tire, yet this issue arises.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

If you have an older boss v plow and it is not a highway moldboard, you should be able to wack some off the end. As mentioned above the V plow helps with being pushed sideways. When you are first plowing through virgin snow in v position it won't push you sides ways and it goes right through it. When banking you can wing one side in, cutting down you plow surface area. Then you have the option for scoping when doing open lots. Provided you can wack 12" off the plow, you have to make a mount any way, the big question would be how are you going to run it hydraulically? Here is the show stopper, the older boss v plows did not have a trip edge and for the most part they do not trip, they are also heavy so your front end doesn't get pushed around that much. On a pick-up they are the cats meow. The commercial guys say it cuts there plowing time buy 2/3.

 

[Jerry1]

Thanks for the comments guys. The blade I have is a 2010 and it was in it's first year of service when it was damaged. I can buy all the parts I need off the internet, but it sounds like the original hyd. cylinders won't work right? Is that because I have to match my tractors hydraulics? I have friends who I think can figure that out.

As far as cutting the blade down, my 1070 has about a 6' rear width but that might increase if needed to use chains. A 9'2" straight blade in a V measures 99" wide (838#), a 8'2" straight is 88" V (770#), and a 7'6" straight is 81" V and 700#. Even at 7'6" it would be plenty wide.
Those weights are for the blade only.

So, opinions are wecome. And if you can add some info on what kind of hyd. cylinders I'll need and anything else, let me know. My soninlaw and his neighbor buddy do a lot of welding/fabrication and both work where they build heavy equipment so I think I've got that part covered. All I have to do is come up with a plan and turn them loose. BTW, does anyone know where the thread is where member zzvyb6 posts pictures of his 1070 plow mount?

Thanks a lot for your help.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

You want a double acting cylinder and loose the spring return if equipped. Find a cylinder that fits or same size as the stock one. Then if I was going to put it on my skid loader I would go with an electric over hydraulic open center valve with the flow rate of the valve matching my aux hydraulic flow. If you end up going this way let me know and I can show you how i would consider doing the switching. I would mount the valve on the plow mount and run my wires up to the cab. Doing it this way saves on your hose length. You however have another option and since I don't own a tractor you will need to bounce this around. If your taking your FEL off you should be able to use those hydraulics. Up down would be say in and out on the left and bucket tilt would be in and out on the right. Either way you go you will have to come up with a cross over relief or some type of relief valve. Two much flow might also be an issue. If you are going to drop the bucket and leave the lift frame then your back to the valve.

 

[skyhook]

Personally, I like your idea Jerry.....:thumbsup: If its tooo big, you could always cut 6 inches off each side.
I've been looking at a 5 footer V plow and thinking on adding a few feet to it...lol
For the hydraulics, I'm no expert...but you'll definitely need two cylinders that work off your loader bucket hoses, and a relief valve that exceeds about 300 or so psi above your settings that are now on your tractor. You won't need the "up and down " cylinder that came with the plow because your loader will do the lifting, so you may want to add a chain in its place for floating the plow.
Go for it....

 

[zzvyb6]

Here ya go. This rig has now been through over 20 Winters unscathed. I even use it to plow the crushed asphalt back into shape in my driveway. In the deepest snow we've ever had (here in Michigan), I can run in high range and third gear maxed out.

I bought the plow at a garage sale for $100 and then fabbed up brackets dropped from the 1/2" steel MMM link points to emmulate a truck plow mount. The height of the two attachment points must match that of a truck's mount for proper plow operation. It easily handles side loads (which I would have figured are the design's weakest feature. I added two extra trip springs because it needed them to satisfy my needs. I use the loader hydraulics for up/down and swing left/right. Extra weights on the tractor and raised the OE weight bar a few inches to eliminate the trip spring interference with it. Only custom work I did was to cut down a cylinder I already had to fit under the weight bar for lift and downforce. Yes I use downforce to break ice and clumps and any other road irregularities. This is necessary at the garage doors where wheel packed ice has formed from the cars running in and out. I like the plow close for steering and maneuvering. I can zero steer in using the separate left/right brake pedals.

I use the mushroom type skids set to raise the plow about 3/4" above the roadway. I use the steel plow scraper blade. I always wait for a little snow and ice to pack down before I attack any major snows because I don't want to rake the stone back onto it in the spring. Heck I even drive through the pastures with this rig to clear a lane for walking and winter golf cart trails. Maybe I'll throw some garage sale paint on it this Fall...

On and off involves 4 nuts and lock washers, two bolts, a pin and the hydraulics. The two drop arms have large rod end swivels on them to help with the hookup. This usually gets done when two people sit together at breakfast or dinner and both say the same thing at the same time: " Guess I'd better put the plow on".

 

[pmsmechanic]

Here ya go. This rig has now been through over 20 Winters unscathed. I even use it to plow the crushed asphalt back into shape in my driveway. In the deepest snow we've ever had (here in Michigan), I can run in high range and third gear maxed out.

I bought the plow at a garage sale for $100 and then fabbed up brackets dropped from the 1/2" steel MMM link points to emmulate a truck plow mount. The height of the two attachment points must match that of a truck's mount for proper plow operation. It easily handles side loads (which I would have figured are the design's weakest feature. I added two extra trip springs because it needed them to satisfy my needs. I use the loader hydraulics for up/down and swing left/right. Extra weights on the tractor and raised the OE weight bar a few inches to eliminate the trip spring interference with it. Only custom work I did was to cut down a cylinder I already had to fit under the weight bar for lift and downforce. Yes I use downforce to break ice and clumps and any other road irregularities. This is necessary at the garage doors where wheel packed ice has formed from the cars running in and out. I like the plow close for steering and maneuvering. I can zero steer in using the separate left/right brake pedals.

I use the mushroom type skids set to raise the plow about 3/4" above the roadway. I use the steel plow scraper blade. I always wait for a little snow and ice to pack down before I attack any major snows because I don't want to rake the stone back onto it in the spring. Heck I even drive through the pastures with this rig to clear a lane for walking and winter golf cart trails. Maybe I'll throw some garage sale paint on it this Fall...

On and off involves 4 nuts and lock washers, two bolts, a pin and the hydraulics. The two drop arms have large rod end swivels on them to help with the hookup. This usually gets done when two people sit together at breakfast or dinner and both say the same thing at the same time: " Guess I'd better put the plow on".

I'm impressed with what you have done with a $100 blade. It's everything a blade should be. Nice job.

 

[Jerry1]

Thanks zzvyb6. I've looked all over for your pictures and they're going to help me alot. Thank you for responding. Actually, I haven't opened them yet because I'm doing this on a tablet and it won't allow me to open your attached thumbnail pictures, but I'll get someone to open them on a computer and print them off.
But if I have questions for you, and I'm sure I will, and if you don't mind me asking, how can I reach you? Again this tablet won't allow me to do things like private message on this website. If you wouldn't mind sending me an email at vjwotz@q.com I could use that method, but I'll leave that up to you.
I'm really anxious to get going on this because winter comes on quick. Just yesterday I mounted rear LED lights on my tractor cab to match those on the front. Just briefly, I bought my 1070 two years ago from a local school district with 800 hours on it. It's got a heated Curtis cab, FEL, 4wd, and a MMM. The mid PTO won't engage (just grinds) and the clutch is not the best, probably from use by inexperienced summer employees, but overall it's perfect for my needs. It had near new turfs on it when I bought it.
So, thanks again to everyone whos responded. I'm almost ready to begin building and I'll be taking pictures to share.
Jerry

 

[Jerry1]

Thanks Skyhook. I'm going to put my project together as it is (9'2") and use it for this coming winter. If I think it would work better shortened I'll take 6" off each end next summer. Easier to shorten it than to lenghthen it. Stay tuned over the winter and I'll give periodic reports.
Jerry