Using Pat's Easy Change

   / Using Pat's Easy Change #21  
Roy, do you have a QH with attachments setup to use it??

I currently have three implements:
Woods rotary cutter
Frontier (Woods) RFM
Woods 5000 Chipper/Shredder

My QH is a Deere model which came with my 4400. My Pat's Easy change (which I had for several years) went when I sold my 790.

The RFM was quick hitch compatible right from the factory.
The cutter was not QH compatible from the factory, but the manual describes how to re-configure the upper A frame for compatibility...which I have done (works well too!)
The chipper/shredder is not QH compatible. The lower implement pins fit, but the upper attach point is about 3" higher then the QH upper hook. I know how to modify this (a fellow TBNer had posted his modifications and pictures a while back). I just haven't made that modification yet...might not since the chipper/shredder is not used more then a few times annually and any mods I make must be reversible in case I ever sell the unit.
 
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   / Using Pat's Easy Change #22  
So you know that a QH with compatible attachments is considerably faster than a Pat's with attachments of varied width.

To me, that's a Quantum leap. Reason being I don't have to get off and adjust the lower tractor 3pt arms width to fit attachments of varied size.

With the QH I'm always the correct width and I can pick up any of my attachments without ever leaving the seat. I can even latch the QH before I start and only leave the seat to hook the PTO. Or I can leave the QH unlatched and move every attachment I own without leaving the seat.

I started with non-telescoping 3pt arms, sucked bad. Went to a Pat's which was an improvement, worked great. Then went to a QH with properly setup attachments which is the Cat's Meow and again was an improvement, works even better. I made that switch for probably the same reasons you did, improved and more efficient use of the tractor. To me, again, that's a Quantum leap from a Pat's.
 
   / Using Pat's Easy Change #23  
So you know that a QH with compatible attachments is considerably faster than a Pat's with attachments of varied width.

To me, that's a Quantum leap. Reason being I don't have to get off and adjust the lower tractor 3pt arms width to fit attachments of varied size.

With the QH I'm always the correct width and I can pick up any of my attachments without ever leaving the seat. I can even latch the QH before I start and only leave the seat to hook the PTO. Or I can leave the QH unlatched and move every attachment I own without leaving the seat.

I started with non-telescoping 3pt arms, sucked bad. Went to a Pat's which was an improvement, worked great. Then went to a QH with properly setup attachments which is the Cat's Meow and again was an improvement, works even better. I made that switch for probably the same reasons you did, improved and more efficient use of the tractor. To me, again, that's a Quantum leap from a Pat's.

I had a home made spreader bar to keep the lower link arms at the correct width. This was pre-indexed so I could set it for any implement I had while I was waiting for the tractor to warm up. Worked pretty good! Neither of my first two tractors (a Deere 670 and the 790) had telescoping lower link arms...nor does the 4400.
Pat's sell such a spreader bar, but it didn't take much to make one. Also, at that time, I had a couple other implements that weren't QH compatible (top link again) so what I had then was what worked best. Also, at that time, my RFM was connected to the 3PH for most of the mowing season so I wasn't swapping out implements all that often.
 
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   / Using Pat's Easy Change #24  
I don't want to take away from this thread in regards to Pat's. It's a great system, made of quality products that take a beating. Again, if you don't have telescoping arms it's a giant step toward useability. If you have the talent and equipment to modify any attachments that aren't standard hitch measurements the QH is the same giant step again. Or as I like to say "Quantum Leap". :)
 
   / Using Pat's Easy Change #25  
Richard......THANKS for the thoughts and not gonna beat that horse/mule til it's dead. Right now, I am totally HAPPY with my investment in Pat's system.........lol........now, on down the road, I just like you, recover from the time/energy/money investment and start looking around for further ways to make life easier. Perhaps at that time, you and I will still be around here and we can figure on that.

What I would really love to have first is a rear hydraulic to raise and lower one side of the implements.....BLADES/BUCKETS...............that I use a lot on my 1/2 mile gravel driveway/road. That is down the road and golly, it keeps these old bones active..............THANKS for the thoughts...........God bless.............Dennis
 
   / Using Pat's Easy Change
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I have installed the Pat's for the first time and could use some help in fine tuning how the units sit on the end of the lift arms.

Question: How fussy do I need to be in how the Pat's units are positioned on the arms?

Can someone describe to me what I am trying to accomplish? Should the Pat's look as if they are an extension of the lift arms? Or, if the lift arms are somewhat "askew" (tipped at a bit of an angle as they sit there unconnected), should the Pat's units be perfectly plumb? The Pats come with four adjusting bolts on each unit, and I guess their purpose it to be able to force the Pat's into a particular position...I just am not sure what that position is.

Many thanks for your replies.

Bob

Edit: I know how hard this is to understand...I'll add a pic or two tomorrow. Thanks again!
 
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   / Using Pat's Easy Change #27  
Two things about Pat's: 1) you HAVE to use the washers inside the lynch pin (and since they only send you two sets this can be a problem). Unbent washers from the hardware store (Lowe's, not Home Depot - the latter does not carry big enough ones) work OK but can hang up on the edges of the hitch - my solution is a hammer (others might like switching washers from implement to implement or making additional ones (bend and drill))_. 2) use the spacer only to connect, don't leave it on while working since when you raise the implement you risk bending (and destroying) it when it 'embraces' the PTO shaft. Other than that I like my Pat's particularly in combination with a hydraulic top link or top-and-tilt
Mf
 
   / Using Pat's Easy Change #28  
ANSWERS IN CAPS


Can someone describe to me what I am trying to accomplish? Should the Pat's look as if they are an extension of the lift arms? YES INDEEDY. Or, if the lift arms are somewhat "askew" (tipped at a bit of an angle as they sit there unconnected), should the Pat's units be perfectly plumb? MILDLY ASKEW IS FINE, PLUMB IS PROBABLY ASKING TOO MUCH. THIS IS A TRACTOR IMPLEMENT AFTER ALL, NOT A ROCKET. The Pats come with four adjusting bolts on each unit, and I guess their purpose it to be able to force the Pat's into a particular position...I just am not sure what that position is. THEIR PURPOSE IS TO TIGHTEN THE SUCKER DOWN SO IT DOESN'T FLOP AROUND, POSITION IS NICE BUT SECONDARY.

Many thanks for your replies.

Bob[/QUOTE]

REPLYS BY ME ARE IN CAPS IN THE QUOTE ABOVE
MF
 
   / Using Pat's Easy Change
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Two things about Pat's: 1) you HAVE to use the washers inside the lynch pin (and since they only send you two sets this can be a problem). Unbent washers from the hardware store (Lowe's, not Home Depot - the latter does not carry big enough ones) work OK but can hang up on the edges of the hitch - my solution is a hammer (others might like switching washers from implement to implement or making additional ones (bend and drill))_. 2) use the spacer only to connect, don't leave it on while working since when you raise the implement you risk bending (and destroying) it when it 'embraces' the PTO shaft. Other than that I like my Pat's particularly in combination with a hydraulic top link or top-and-tilt
Mf

Good tip on detaching the spacer after implement is connected. Probably wouldn't have done that. Thanks!! BTW, my Pat's came with three sets of washers...probably all I'll need.
 
   / Using Pat's Easy Change #30  
I have installed the Pat's for the first time and could use some help in fine tuning how the units sit on the end of the lift arms.

Question: How fussy do I need to be in how the Pat's units are positioned on the arms?

Can someone describe to me what I am trying to accomplish? Should the Pat's look as if they are an extension of the lift arms? Or, if the lift arms are somewhat "askew" (tipped at a bit of an angle as they sit there unconnected), should the Pat's units be perfectly plumb? The Pats come with four adjusting bolts on each unit, and I guess their purpose it to be able to force the Pat's into a particular position...I just am not sure what that position is.

Many thanks for your replies.

Bob

They should be an extension...straight out, from the lower link arms.
When you received your PEC, you should have got:
The forged housing (the actual Pat's Easy Change)
2 pins used to hold the housing to the lower link arms (these pins go through the housing and lower link "eyeballs")
4 or 6 spacers used to 'level" the housing
2 "U" bolts
2 metal strips used to hole the PEC in position
2 Nuts (for the U bolts) and, IIRC, 2 washers for those nuts
1 set of instructions
Also you should receive 2-4 of the bent washers used to keep the lower link arms positioned on the implement's lower pins

The open end of the U bolt should be toward the bottom of the housing and tractor's lower link arms. The spacers are used as required to ensure the housing is level....maybe a better way to put it is the top of the housing should be parallel with the lower link arm...does that make sense?

Two suggestions:
Order or fabricate a few extra bent washers. I'll guarantee you'll lose one or two sometime.
Use the black lynch pins rather then the zinc plate (golden color) lynch pins. The black lynch pins have a much stiffer spring. Watch your fingers though! they bite!
 

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