Using my trailer, or abusing it?

   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #1  

joshuabardwell

Elite Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
2,728
Location
Knoxville, TN
Tractor
Bobcat CT225
I have a 16', dual-axle, utility trailer, rated for 7000 lbs GVWR. I have recently started using it to move my tractor around, when I need to. My tractor weighs 3050 lbs (per manufacturer specs). Say I've got an implement on as well, up to maybe 1000 lbs, for a total weight around 4000 lbs. Trailer itself is 1600 lbs, for a resulting gross trailer weight of 5600 lbs. I'm 1400 lbs under capacity, so I should be good to go, right?

Well, the story gets a little more complicated. I asked the manufacturer what the loading ramp/gate was rated for, and they said 2000 lbs. So I figured I should be okay to load my tractor, since, even if the weight distribution isn't exactly 50/50, that 2000 lbs probably has a little slop in it. Except, after I loaded my tractor on and off the trailer once, I noticed that the inner two reinforcing members on the gate looked just a teency bit bowed. So I figured, okay, I'll put some jack stands underneath them to provide a little extra support.

Except, I had been using my jack stands to keep the rear of the trailer from dipping, so instead I got a 6 ton bottle jack and put it at the center of the rear of the trailer. I loaded my tractor without incident. My gate has a metal tab on each side that fits between two cylinders, and a pin drops down through the cylinders to hold the gate closed. So when I went to close the gate, one of the metal tabs was butting up against one of the cylinders instead of fitting between the two of them. I pondered what could be causing this. Did I bend the gate when I was loading? On a hunch, I opened the relief valve on the bottle jack and the trailer immediately dropped several inches. The gate closed normally now. The jack had been holding the entire back of the trailer up, and the trailer had flexed in some way such that the gate wouldn't close.

Okay, so here is my question. On the one hand, by the numbers, I am well under my trailer's rated capacity. On the other hand, I am getting what might be several yellow flags that my trailer is not 100% happy with what I'm doing with it. Or am I just being a worrywart? Am I just using my trailer, or am I abusing it?

On a related note: it occurs to me that, although the trailer is rated for 7000 lbs, there are probably some assumptions made about the distribution of that weight. When I load my tractor on the trailer, all of its weight is split between the two frame members underneath the wheels (or, if the wheels are between members, perhaps it's split between four frame members). Are trailers generally engineered to take that kind of loading? Bear in mind this is a general utility trailer, not a car hauler. If anybody out there wants the size/thickness of the steel, to give a more educated opinion, I can provide it.
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #2  
I am not sure where the 3050lbs for the tractor came from. That may be dry weight. If the tires are filled you might be closer to the limit than you think. If you put something under the rear of your trailer to support it while loading, you need to set it a cou;le inches low without a load on the trailer. It will squat some with the load on it.
It seems that you should be good though. The jack just had it twisted a little.
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #3  
I think you are fine on the trailer weight. If I understand correctly, you have a mesk style full width ramp. They are a weak spot-your trailer was probably designed for a landscaper hauling 2-3 mowers that weigh 1,000lbs or so-not loading a 4k trator.

I'd consider buying some ramps that are rated for 5-6k. That should take care of your situation.

Will
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #4  
The only bad thing I think you did was to put that bottle jack in the middle and have it support the weight after you were loaded. I use blocks to support the rear of my trailer when loading, and put a set on each side with about 1-2" gap under the frame. So they support the rear of the trailer when driving on, but then the trailer suspension takes over once I am balanced, and the blocks no longer contact the frame (they slide right out).

As far as the gate, the rating may be a bit hard to figure out. It could really be due to the hinge pins for all you know. If the gate has mesh, that will help spread the load and tie the structure together, but that's no good if the pins are the weak point. I think it would be easy to beef up the gate if you're worried, by adding additional hinge points and bracing the gate frame.

If you knew the hinges were OK, then something as simple as a couple 3/4" plywood runners might be enough to reinforce the gate under the tires. Or just use ramps instead. I guess I'd be curious to see a picture of the gate to know what we're dealing with.

By the way, I have a 7x16 landscape trailer with a mesh rear gate and dual 3.5K axles. The gate is made of 1-1/2" square tubing on 12" centers and a light gauge mesh (punched steel rather than expanded steel). The tubing is rather light, I think 0.060" wall, and I wasn't too sure it was strong enough. But the dealer, who also sold me my Kubota, claimed the gate is fine for tractors like my B series (2800-3300# overall with my various implements). Sure enough it's been fine, and the gate is actually stiffer than the one on my small trailer, which has 1/4" angle iron spaced 24" with a heavy mesh.

If I had to carry heavier tractors on my landscape trailer, I'd probably ditch the gate and have some custom ramps welded up.
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #5  
just a quick note.

I have seen ALOT of trailers with 2*3500 axles but tires spec'ed for only 1,250lb each (5,000 gross)

are your tires rated for 1750lbs each?
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #6  
I have a similar sized landscape trailer that also had a weak loading gate. It originally had plywood that made it marginally work but the wind resistance was too high. I changed it out to expanded metal and reinforced it with several 1/8" x 2 inch angles and 1/4" x 2" bars. That worked fine but the weight was increased so much I had to add lift assist springs. A bit of work but it's fine in the end.
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I am not sure where the 3050lbs for the tractor came from. That may be dry weight.

If it was a car, curb weight would include all fluids necessary to run the vehicle (oil, coolant, etc...). Since it's not, I'm not sure. Tires are not loaded, so I'm probably within a few hundred pounds of 3050 either way.

I think you are fine on the trailer weight. If I understand correctly, you have a mesk style full width ramp. They are a weak spot-your trailer was probably designed for a landscaper hauling 2-3 mowers that weigh 1,000lbs or so-not loading a 4k trator. I'd consider buying some ramps that are rated for 5-6k. That should take care of your situation.

Yes, exactly. It's expanded metal with angle iron frame and two supports outlining the path a wheel would take up the ramp. Definitely designed for mowers, not tractors. I was hoping the 2k limit would get me by, but I don't think it will. As for buying some ramps... I'll add that to the list of things to buy for my tractor :confused3: It's a good suggestion, but there are other things I would buy for the tractor for $200-$300.

The only bad thing I think you did was to put that bottle jack in the middle and have it support the weight after you were loaded. I use blocks to support the rear of my trailer when loading, and put a set on each side with about 1-2" gap under the frame. So they support the rear of the trailer when driving on, but then the trailer suspension takes over once I am balanced, and the blocks no longer contact the frame (they slide right out).

Got it. I like using the jack stands because they are adjustable height. As long as I give the trailer room to squat, and support both sides of the trailer, it sounds like should be okay.

If you knew the hinges were OK, then something as simple as a couple 3/4" plywood runners might be enough to reinforce the gate under the tires. Or just use ramps instead. I guess I'd be curious to see a picture of the gate to know what we're dealing with.

It's expanded metal mesh welded to an angle iron frame with two angle iron supports outlining the path a wheel would take if you drove up the ramp, so a total of four supports inside the frame. I'd give you a picture, but it's dark out now. Here's a link to the manufacturer's page for the trailer, though: Currahee Trailers - 800 series deluxe double-axle

just a quick note.
I have seen ALOT of trailers with 2*3500 axles but tires spec'ed for only 1,250lb each (5,000 gross)
are your tires rated for 1750lbs each?

Good thought, but I checked that. They're rated for 1820 each at 50 PSI, and I checked the pressure and the torque on all the nuts before setting out.
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #8  
This is why I am not a fan of gates. Dump the gate and get a set of slide in 5' ramps. You will be glad you did.

As for overloading the trailer you are fine. I have a 2004 Jerry James 7K 18' car hauler. My tractor with implement weighs about 5,600# and I have had no problems and the trailer still looks like the day it did when I bought it. Pole Barn Keep Helps. Anyway, it probably has 75,000 miles on it hauling 10 or so different tractors, 20 different cars, 10 different SUV's/Trucks as big as a Suburban, and tons of fire wood and building materials. Use your trailer up to max weight, keep the bearings and brakes maintenance up, and keep a close eye on the tires and pressures and you will be fine.

Chris
 
   / Using my trailer, or abusing it? #9  
This is why I am not a fan of gates. Dump the gate and get a set of slide in 5' ramps. You will be glad you did.

Chris

Totally agree...a solid set of slide in ramps gets rid of all of your other concerns about your ramp PLUS you don't have wind resistance.

Enjoy...:thumbsup:
 

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