Rake using a yard rake

[Anonymous Poster]

Freds: your project sounds like a flex harrow is more suited to the job. These are pieces of cyclone fence on "roids", and have tines that angle forward or backward. You simply drag them behind (could even hook them up in tandem with a blade ?!)
They are effective at breaking up clumps etc on ground that is basically filled already. And smoothing the dirt.
Although most brands appear similar, some postings claim certain brands are capable of losing the debris that builds up by themselves.
In fact, you could even use one of the old rigid harrows ("drags") that have 5-6 cross bars with spikes that are angle-adjustable. I have and they do a good job behind a CUT or ATV. Put away the rake for another time when you need to move and flatten uneven ground.
jim

 

[Freds]

Now that I have a little time under my belt using the rake, I have found that dragging it in what I would call the normal or forward position does do a great job at filling low spots, but if I want to just smooth things out I travel in reverse (I just wish I could travel as fast in reverse). I tried spinning the rake 180 and the 72" doesn't quite clear the lower lift arms. Maybe if I change where the center link attaches I can lift it high enough not to hit. I got to move a lot of gravel today and am close to getting the hang of it, but then gravel isn't topsoil and doesn't need breaking up.

Fred

 

[WVBill]

Fred: Spin it around before you hook it up if you're going to be doing a lot of "back dragging".

 

[Freds]

Bill, is there an easy way to do this? Seems like it would hit the stand on the "yoke" I guess you would call it. I suppose it could be done, I was just hoping I could reverse it while it was hooked up because at this point, it helps me to be able to change the angle and direction quite a bit. Probably more often than someone who has more experience using the rake.

 

[Freds]

I thought I would show a picture. It seems like the toplink is not long enough. The rake is in the down position and the wheels only have 1/2" of adjustment left. The tines are hitting the gravel. If the toplink was longer (it's already adjusted out as far as it will go) the rake would rock back on the wheels and lift the tines. At least that's how I see it in theory. Does anyone have a pic of how their rake looks hooked up? Mine looks like it has too much lean into the tractor.

 

[WVBill]

I see what you mean now. The rake hits the ground when you try to swing it around - not the rear tractor tires, right? My 6' Lineback rake on my Kubota B6100 lifts plenty high enough to swing all the way around.

I also see why you can't rotate it while it's un-hooked. I don't have that stand that holds up the front - I just use blocks. If you could prop up the rake with some blocking under the rake frame and don't put down the stand, maybe you could swing it around.

But that's not the real solution. I can't figure why my B6100 can lift my rake higher than you can with your 7500. I'll take a picture this weekend and post it so you can compare set-ups.

 

[Freds]

That pic would be great, Bill.
Actually the top of the wheel adjustments on the rake hit the lift arms when I try to spin it. You can see the angle the rake has to it. If I can get the rake frame to ride more level, which would also lower the ends of the square tubing where the wheels are attached so they would be level also, I think I would have enough clearance to spin it attached. The only way I can see doing this is to get a longer toplink. Something isn't right for the wheels to be set for max lift and the tines are still only barely above groung level. Someone once mentioned here about having a toplink for each implement so you have it already adjusted when you switch attachments. The more toys I buy the more I like that idea.

 

[WVBill]

Freds:

Here's my picture. My top link is extended to about 22" which is about the middle of it's adjustment range. As you can see the frame of the rake is just about level front to back. I can see where guage wheels might make things more difficult to spin it around.

By the way, what did you have to pay for your guage wheels? I'd like a set but as I recall the dealer wanted almost $200 and so I'm thinking about making my own.