Rake using a yard rake

   / using a yard rake #1  

Freds

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
1,554
Location
NW PA
Tractor
Kubota L3130HST & ZD326s
Well, I bought a yard rake yesterday. A 72" Land Pride with gauge wheels, I had a lot of levelling and sod clump breaking up to do around my new bldg. and it worked great. It surprised me that the wheels aren't more readily available, only two places in a 25 mile radius even had them.
The place where I bought it said to lengthen the top link to give the tines more curl so it doesn't dig in as much (the wheels are as low as they'll go), but I still seem to drag around a lot of the top soil. Is this where the angle comes into play? I tried to angle it once and it still seemed to pick up a lot of dirt. Also, the ground slopes down away from the bldg. and I wasn't really sure which way to angle the rake since I am travelling back and forth along the grade. It didn't seem to make a difference as far as trying to lose the dirt out the side of the rake.
Tomorrow I'll have 43 tons of 1B pea gravel to play with /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. I'm hoping my technique is better by then.

Fred
 
   / using a yard rake #2  
Fred,

Kind of like spreading peanut butter on a sandwich. You want to pick up the dirt in the high spots and drop it in the low ones. What works for me using my rear blade is to angle it and work the dirt from one side to the other & then back again.

Maybe I can explain better. Lets say you have a low spot that is East of a high spot. I would travel N-S and angle the blade so it is widrowing the dirt to the east. I would start at the high spot (West) and work my rows towards the East using an agressive bite on the blade

Then I would angle the blade the other way & take a mild bite so that I was just smoothing out the dirt & work my way back towards the high spot (West). Soem times I simply drive backwards with the blade still angled the same way.

Sounds like a word problem from Math class. What time do the trains get to Penn Station?/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

If you don't angle the blade, you end up pulling the dirt from one spot to another. This is why when using a box blade, people often drive in circles, you got to keep the dirt moving around or you will end up piling it up in one area.
 
   / using a yard rake
  • Thread Starter
#3  
HUH?

I don't really have any high or low spots. The bulldozer did a good job of giving me a decent grade to work with. I just can't seem to get the top soil to work it's way out of the clumps of weeds and large rocks that I am raking. It just pulls along with the rest of the undesirable stuff. To tell the truth, I only angled the blade one notch, maybe if I angle it more the dirt might sift through better. Thanks for all the input, though. I'll keep it in mind when I get a blade to work on my driveway.

Fred
 
   / using a yard rake #4  
<font color=blue>HUH?</font color=blue>

Clear as mud eh?/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

I don't have experience with a rake, but I would try angling it as much as you can.
 
   / using a yard rake #5  
Practice, practice, practice. This will give you experience and knowledge. The dirt wont shake out of the clods of grass roots until they are pretty dry. Then angling the rake and making MANY back and forth passes will eventually shake the dirt loose. You just want that clod to be at the right spot on your lawn when the dirt eventually breaks loose. As far as angling, you may want to keep in mind that when going along the sidehill, moving dirt uphill is harder than moving it down. But you probably want the dirt to remain up the hill, and not down. I would say angle such that the dirt moves uphill most of the time. Get those clods to rolling around in front of the rake teeth, so they work out the dirt.
Have fun. Usually it takes a long time, and many passes, to get what you want.
 
   / using a yard rake #6  
Is a yard rake the same thing as a "York rake"?

I need to rent one soon, to clear out an area that was bulldozed down and needs to be cleared of all rocks and little trees and sticks that got pushed down.

We may be talking about two different things..
 
   / using a yard rake #7  
1. angle to max adjustment which will windrow the heavy clumpy stuff. each sucessive time you go over it more of the loose stuff wtill get knocked off,leaving the bigger stuff which eventually you pull forward on until the rake fills up, lift the three point leaving a pile and continue on. You WILL wind up with a lot of small piles that have to be removed by hand.

2. Since you have guage wheels you should be able to adjust them so the tines are BARELY touching the surface. The less down pressure the less it will dig in and pick up the fines. You should be able to adjust the wheels so the tines will leave a several inch gap between the bottom of the tine and the ground, if you can't the wheels aren't doing you much good. Depending on the type of wheel height adjustment you have you should be able to modify it to give you more clearence (ie add more spacers etc). Also by lengthening the top link it rocks the rake back onto the wheels and also increases the clearance. Keep playing and you'll get it but you'll stil need some hand work unless you can windrow everything to a side where you plan on leaving it.
 
   / using a yard rake #8  
<font color=blue>lengthen the top link to give the tines more curl so it doesn't dig in as much<font color=black> -> This seems backwards from my experience with my rake. Shortening the toplink seems to lessen the curl & minimize the "digging". I don't have gauge wheels... not sure if that makes a difference or not. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif
 
   / using a yard rake #9  
I think they got it backwards - I agree with shade2 - lengthening the toplink makes the cut more aggressive, not less.
 
   / using a yard rake #10  
It does make a difference whether you have guage wheels or not. With the wheels on, lengthening the top link lets the wheels hit the ground before the tines do, so you can adjust it so the tines just touch or even float slightly above the ground level to pick up trash without digging.

Without the wheels, lengthening the top link does cause the tines to dig deeper (more aggressively) if you drop the 3-pt hitch to full float position. Otherwise, you adjust the amount of "dig" by raising or lowering the hitch. Shortening the top link lets the tines drag without digging. Clear as mud?? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
 

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