used power pole for fence post

rlee6 · Nov 30, 2004

I have read people using used power poles for fence posts. Specifically,

1) what is good about used power poles?
2) what do you treat cut surfaces with?

Thanks.

ALBALD1 · Nov 30, 2004

I used old tel poles for my fence. I didn't treat them. I figure they are alrdy treated. Look how long they stand. As far as why I think they are good. It's because they were free for pickup. Even split they are thicker than most bought fence post i've seen. I don't know how long they will last. I have one fence about a year old & the other I just put up this past spring. Only time will tell.

HammerFour · Nov 30, 2004

At our place the previous owner had used old utility poles that had been squared for fence posts.

Squaring the posts seems to have cut the preservative off, they are rotting and falling over right and left.

Ahh well, fencing is never really ever done at our place anyhow.

Soundguy · Nov 30, 2004

Lots of people here use phone poles for corner and bracing posts as well as for pole barns, when they can lay their hands on them. We see the green, presumably PT ones, as well as the brown presumably cresote ones. While they both seem to have a long life.. I kind of lean towards the cresote ones.. but thats because when you do cut them, sometimes you can get center rot if the tops are squared off and rain can pool. I usually like an angled cut post, and I seal or paint the tops of all my posts with asphalt fence paint.. works great. My neighbors fence has PT flat top posts that are already hollowing out.. My angle cut asphalt painted ones look like they went in yesterday.

I'm sure the pt ones would last if angle cut and painted.. but the balck asphalt paint might look a tad yucky ont he green post. Course.. you could simply angle cut them and then paint the tops with copper napthenate post dip/paint. That should pretty much kill anything living... course.. copper napthenate cost more per 5 gallons than the cheapy asphalt fence paint..

Soundguy

Skitch · Nov 30, 2004

1) They're (probably) free
2) [See Soundguy above]

Actually my dad built several sheds using creosote poles for the uprights and PT wood for beams, etc. For the most part, the cut portions of the poles (notches for beams, etc.) are still looking great after almost 30 years. I think that you would be fine for many years to come with an angle cut on top, but a small investment in a sealer will pay dividends in the future no matter what you use for your posts.

On a personal note, if you elect to work with creosote, be extra careful to avoid getting splinters. That will be the most painful splinter you will ever get. Trust me.

rlee6 · Nov 30, 2004

Our city also gives used power poles free. But I have to cut them and load them on my truck myself. I have neither a chain saw nor a loader.

Would it be worth buying a chain saw and renting a loader? A 6"-8' fence post costs about $14. If this is as long-lasting and strong as used utility poles, I may not quite justify the expenses of chain saw and loader. What do you think?

pekabu · Nov 30, 2004

In my area (Southern NH) it's practically impossible to get your hands on poles. If a utility gets rid of poles, usually only Non profits can get them after siging there first born away.

Soundguy · Dec 3, 2004

Well.. a chainsaw is not bad to have anyway. As for the loader/.. why you need a loader?

I'll also second what the the other poster said about splinters... cresote is mean stuff.. oily.. burns skin.. burns skin that other skin touches.. so don't be touching your face.. soap help cut the oily residue. Any splinters you get will burn and turn red.. any that you miss, you will find in about a day,as you won't be able to ignore them.

Soundguy

rlee6 · Dec 3, 2004

( .. why you need a loader?
Soundguy )

When I called the power company, they said people bring in a loader, grappler, etc to lift the poles. I assumed the poles were too heavy to lift manually.

Varmintmist · Dec 3, 2004

Just bring a friend, or 2. Once you cut them to about 7-8 feet you can move them by hand unless you get into class 1 or 2 (BIG poles). Use the chain saw, just be careful. Knuckleheads keep pounding nails and staples into poles for garage sales and lost kittys even though it is illegal. Those are rough on a saw chain. Not a whole lot of fun on hands, legs and forearms when you are on gaffs either.

The splinters off a creosote pole are better to get than off the others. The creosote splinters will work their own way out, unless you get the 3-4 inch type /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

The creosote will last longer from what I have seen than the new green pressure treated, as long as you leave the creosote on. Sometimes you can find old cedars and split them for rail fence.

markct · Dec 3, 2004

( Would it be worth buying a chain saw and renting a loader? A 6"-8' fence post costs about $14. If this is as long-lasting and strong as used utility poles, I may not quite justify the expenses of chain saw and loader. What do you think?
)

well first off i dont know how ya could live in the country without a chainsaw, so i would go buy one of them right away, and why on earth would you rent a loader, especialy if your gona cut them up anyhow, i can easily load a 9 ft length of utility pole into a pickup by myself, get one end in and then push the other end in, with two people you would have it even easier. with a comealong and some planks i have even loader full length poles into my dumptruck a couple times, i wouldnt even consider the expense and trouble of a loader, one other option is get someone with an automotive rollback truck, they could slide on a bunch of them and deliver them pretty reasonable. but again for fence posts your gona need to cut them anyhow so just load them in a pickup. now that being said, i dont think i would use them for fence posts, i use regular pressure treated landscape timbers for fenceposts, about 3 bucks each, and i use utility poles for corner posts, they work great

rambler · Dec 6, 2004

( ( .. why you need a loader?
Soundguy )

When I called the power company, they said people bring in a loader, grappler, etc to lift the poles. I assumed the poles were too heavy to lift manually. )

They may not allow you to cut them on-site for liability reasons? Otherwise cut them there, & easy enough to load up with 1 or 2 people.

You can load them on a trailer by yourself, uncut, but it takes a good back & maybe a rr tongs or the like. Or an electric winch on the trailer. Or several good friends who owe you a favor.

Depends on how many you will be getting.

A loader will sure make it easier, but you don't need to physically lift the whole pole - just an end, & get it sliding....

More than one way to skin a cat.

--->Paul

Soundguy · Dec 6, 2004

Yep.. let mechanical advantage be your friend.

A timberjack could be used to get an end up.. then back the trailer under, then start sliding.

Soundguy

rlee6 · Dec 6, 2004

Thanks for the tips. In about 2 weeks, I will know how heavy they are. You folks seem to know so much about tools and equipment. I don't know what timberjack is. I have to google it.

One related question if I may. What size chainsaw should I buy? Is 16" good enough for general purpose? Thanks again.

By the way, according to Customer Service, people show up with chainsaws and the loading equipment. Apparently, they cut up the poles in situ.

Varmintmist · Dec 8, 2004

Oh no!!!! A chainsaw question!!!!

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Yep, 16in is dandy for a general use saw. Most people get to excited and go to big. A 16 in bar is real easy to handle and lighter.

Since you really dont seem to use a saw much, a regular Poulan (green) or Homelight should do you fine.

LarryD · Dec 8, 2004

The creosote splinters will work their own way out, unless you get the 3-4 inch type.

Sounds like you have experience with those. Personnaly, I only burned a pole ONE time /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Varmintmist · Dec 8, 2004

I flew away from the two I came off of and jumped from the one I was riding down, I only hit air on the way down /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Never burnt one all the way down. The little splinters you get in your forarms on a day to day basis always worked there way out on there own. I got to see a guy get a chest full of wood though. Docs had to pull them out.

Hey, I gotta ask. Is the mexican restraunt still there on the left as you come into Oak Harbor from the south??? They made the BEST picate sauce fresh at the bar and the food was great. I was thinking about it the other day when I took the wife out to a Mex place that everyone here said was real good. (It was ok)

Soundguy · Dec 10, 2004

( I don't know what timberjack is. I have to google it )

A timberjack is a hand tool with a wood handle, and then a stand at a 90' angle tot he bottom of the pole. The a large jaw with a tong that pivots on the jaw wher eit would attatch at the pole. Say you have timber ont he ground ( tree.. telephone pole.. etc.) and you want to cut it with the chainsaw.. you don't want the bar cutting into the ground, so you lok the jaw around the log.. handle is pretty much pointing verticle.. then you rotate the handle down, this rolls the log over, using the logs own weight to hold the tong onto it.. kinda like a skidding tong.. Anyway. the whole thing lays over until the log is propped up ont the metal 90' leg of the timberjack. This puts the log 8-12" off the ground for cutting.. or.. backing a flatbed trailer up to so you can set it on the edge.. etc.

I may not have described that well. .but I've seen a few of them and that is the jist of it. i think northern tools sells them.. might find a pic there.

Ok here's a pic of one from northern.. they sell them from 29$ to 42$

Soundguy