Used Farm Pro 2420 for the first time...questions

[joerocker]

I finally got around to using my new tractor today. I went around and made sure everything was tight, all the places that needed fluids had it (it's nice that they painted all the fluid fill/check places red), and cranked her up. Started without a hitch, idles a little rough but then again this is the only deisel I've ever owned.

Everything went fine. My fuel gauge doesn't work, I'll look at the wiring later. I cut about 5 acres and put 4 hours on the tractor. It's set kind of low and digs into the ground when the hydraulics are all the way down, I'm guessing I tighten up the two upper links to raise it, I'll do that tomorrow too. Other than that, it went flawlessly. When cutting grass I run it at 1700-1800 RPM in Hi, HI, 1st. Is that OK? It seems to like it and only occasionally grunts a bit. The foot throttle comes in handy and I've learned to give it some gas before I get to a tougher spot. The steering is pretty easy for non-power.

All in all, NICE tractor!

Tomorrow I'll be switching to a boxblade to do some scraping and leveling. Any tips?

Also, the manual says break in is EITHER 10 hours UNLOADED or 31 hours loaded. Am I reading that right? What exactly IS the difference? Bottom line, I'm asking WHEN should I change all the fluids/filters?

Thanks guys for your help in deciding on a tractor...

 

[greg_g]

Your tach should have a green band on it, which indicates the correct RPM range to use for PTO-driven implements. I'm thinking you're probably doggin' the mower down at 1800

Conventional wisdom suggests changing ALL fluids/filters - flushing as required - before you ever use the tractor. Don't forget the hydraulic suction filter. Consider what you put in as your break-in fluids. Work the tractor for about 50 hours, then change ALL fluids/filters again. You can tell by what comes out whether or not you want to flush again. After that, you can go by the manufacturer's fluid change recommendations - and flushing should hopefully not be required again.

Fuel gauge problem is usually a loose ground wire.

Minimum TPH height is set with the vertical stabilizer links. They're the turnbuckle looking things that connect the lower lift arms with the hydraulic lift arms. After that, you control height with the lever alongside the seat. Set the stops on the lift lever linkage so you don't raise the hydraulic arms too high - or else you'll ruin the lift cylinder seals.

//greg//

 

[OKnewguy]

As you have probably read, just make sure and vary your rpms to help brake it in. I have a jinma 224. This size of tractor has worked out great, and I expect you will love yours.
Congrats on the new tractor.
DAve

 

[bluechip]

There should be a stop on the rod that moves the lift lever for the 3 point back to the middle (hold) position. You can just set it so that the 3 point will not drop too low, realistically with a box blade, you will beconstantly raising and lowering, but with the mower, being able to drop back down to appx the same height is nice. it is a round bushing with a thumb screw to hold it in place.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Set the stops on the lift lever linkage so you don't raise the hydraulic arms too high - or else you'll ruin the lift cylinder seals.
)</font>

Greg.. did I read this right? Are you saying that the 3pt lift piston isn't max travel safe?? That is, you can make the lift piston exit the lift cyl some and damage the orings?

Do they not have any feedback mechanisim internal to the lift to limit max piston travel??

( I sure hope I read that wrong, as Ford had this back in 1939 /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif )

Soundguy

 

[bluechip]

Chris,
there is a characteristic of Jinma 200 lift boxes (not 300 series or KAMAs) where if the stop is not set correctly (the stop being a pair of jam nuts on a threaded rod) for maximum desired lift, the piston can overexted, allowing the O ring to go past the end of the cylinder, when it goes back when the lift is lowered, it will usually shear the O ring. There is a stop designed into the assembly by way of a cast protrusion on the rear plate that would provide a positive stop for the piston, but I suspect that years of use of the patterns and perhaps some changes made to the piston design have left this stop too short to do the job it was intended. It is not a problem if the jam nuts are not left too far out on the end of the control rod. A better prenetion may be to build up the stop on the rear cover.

There is also a settable stop on the control rod to kick the lever out (mechanically forces the lever back to the netural or hold position, remember the 200 series Jinma does not have poistional control of the 3 point).

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( plate that would provide a positive stop for the piston, but I suspect that years of use of the patterns and perhaps some changes made to the piston design have left this stop too short to do the job it was intended. It is not a problem if the jam nuts are not left too far out on the end of the control rod. A better prenetion may be to build up the stop on the rear cover.
)</font>

Yikes /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif None of those systems sounds 'great'. The 'positive' stop you mention sounds like the piston is deadheading against a casting member.. thus relying onthe relief in the system for safety. That's not awesome either... a faulty relief and you could have a cracked top cover.

I much prefer the feedback design that has been in use for 66 years by ford. The lift control ( hytrol handle ) is connected thru mechanical linkages under the lift cover.. these mechanical linkages manipulate the control valve for the 3pt. As the piston reaches it's max safe travel, there is a feeler that the piston moves, and this feeler then manipulates the linkage that the hytrol handle is connected to, and backs off on the control valve. The hytrol handle is not 'pushed' back.. it stays wherever you put it. This is for circuit regenertion.. i fthe lift piston or something inthe system leaks.. then the piston moves back into the cylinder as the oilleaks.. this in turn releases pressure on the 'feeler' and that in turn allows the control valve to open a tad to regenerate the circuit.

Wonderfull design... and the basis for most modern 3pt systems ( ferguson system )...

I really have to say.. the hyd setup on that unit is lackluster... I'm actually a bit surprised... the design for the rest of the machine seems 'sturdy', even if older technology..

Soundguy

 

[bluechip]

Chris,
Ford has a position control type system. The Jinma 200 series does not, it is operated by a valve you simply ask it to lift or you ask it to lower, the longer you hold the valve the further it goes sort of like the valves on the loader. You HAVE to have a mechanical stop somewhere.

The system is very reliable if used properly (the stop on the rod will close the valve before it hits the solid stop every time if it is adjusted properly).

I had a 9N and the darn thing would all by itself lift the brush hog up, it even cut the driveshaft in half after a while so it is not a perfect design either.

KAMA tractors and 200 series JInma tractors use position and draft control (2 levers) which operates more like what you are used to.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I had a 9N and the darn thing would all by itself lift the brush hog up, it even cut the driveshaft in half after a while so it is not a perfect design either. )</font>

Actually.. it was working fine.. you had the (draft) setting too sensitive onthe hytrol handle....as the 9n / 2n was (constant) draft mode. There were position control jigs that could be fit to it to make it position control and draft control.. much like the the modifications on the 8n.

You could also use limit chains.., or even get real inventive and fiddle with the draft plunger to prevent it from sending draft response to the pump control valve, and thus use the 9n / 2n hyds as position control. Many a 9n and 2n are working that way right now, if the draft plunger, yoke and draft spring are rusted up tight.

Soundguy

 

[bluechip]

strange, usually draft control only raises a bit, this thing would go all the way up, made a heck of a racket. then there was the brush hog pushing the whole tractor even when you step on the clutch.... another "less than awesome" bit of design work requiring additional overrunning clutch. then there were those nasty points that would stick and corrode, whose Idea was it to put the distributor in between the engine and the radiator anyway? talk about "Awesome design"... I fixed it though, sold the rusty hulk.

So there you go, it is very easy to be overly critical. These tractors are what they are, no more, no less.

Truth be told, I like old ford tractors, I've had several 8Ns, even a couple good ones one even had the distributor where it could be serviced. We are fixing up a jubilee that we took in trade last year. ON top of that we sell FARMTRACs which are about as Ford as you can get in a new tractor these days. So I don't condemn ford for their weaknesses, but they put a lot of people on tractors in their day and I'm not trying to start an argument, just trying to make a point about being overly critical. We posted the way it works, explained the (potential) problem and how to avoid it, IMHO there is not much to be gained by taking the attitude that ford had that beat 66 years ago.. In fact I have replaced many old fords with Jinma/farm pro tractors and everyone likes the Jinma better, better fuel economy, 2 stage clutch, you can raise the lift with your foot on the clutch even.

Again it works, if you set the stops correctly it will work a very long time. no added shims, no chains, no hassel.