Buying Advice Used 3320 vs. New 3520

[badels]

Hey guys, I know this question has been asked before, but I am hoping for some advise. I am currently an open station red tractor owner looking to switch to a Green Cab Model. My main uses for the tractor are snow removal, road maintenance, Brush hog mowing (6 acres a couple times a year) and loader work. My main question is it worth the extra $10,000 for a new 3520 over a very nice used 3320 with 400 hours. I thought the 3320 was new when I first saw it. I don't know how the previous owner put so many hours on it and it still looks as good as it does. Speaking of: is 400 hours alot on one of these tractors? I have test drove the 3320 and it is smooth and operates very nice, but the dealer does not have a 3520 on the lot to try. Power has never been an issue with my current tractor which is very comparable to the 3320. Any advise or suggestions from owners out there would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Brad

 

[BigMike50]

I would go with the 3320. the 3320 can do everything the 3520 can do. Especially for what you want to do with it. Pocket that 10,000 dollars and put the money to use elsewhere. 400 hours on that machine is nothing at all. 400 hours is still a new machine. You don't need to test drive the 3520 because you wont notice anything during a test drive.

 

[AKfish]

Well.. 400 hours is 2 oil changes and still has another 100hrs to go before the 3rd (break-in @ 100hrs and every 200 after that). So, that's not a lot of hours or use on that tractor.

Couple of questions and observations. First observation is that Casper, WY gets hot in the summer, real hot and if you do a search here on TBN you'll find some comments regarding cabbed, 3320's and being short on power when brush hogging, etc. in summer running the air conditioner and the eHydro tranny (that eats ~5hp more than the reverser tranny).

That's not nearly as much of a problem with the turbo'ed 3520! With 6 acres of brush hogging 2-3 times a summer you might just find that extra $10K was a better, long-term investment.

Do you have (or planning to keep) your current attachments? Rear blade, box blade, brush hog mower, etc. The 3520 will be able to power many attachments that are another foot larger than what the 3320 will reliably work. Where you'd be using 5 foot equipment with the 3320; you can gear up to 6 foot attachments with the 3520. That may or may not be an advantage; especially if you're gonna have to go out and buy those implements!

The next question is financing terms. I haven't looked at the "up-to-the-minute" financing deals that Deere offers but, it seems that they might still have 0% for new tractors versus higher rates for used. Over the term of the loan - the initial $10K - is actually less when compared to financing a loan for used equipment.

Final observation is warranty. You'll have 90 days (likely) on the 3320 and a year on the 3520. If you have any kind of a problem in that first year - that $10K difference will shrink even more. So, work the numbers and see how close the 2 tractors really are in price and how one or the other will best fit your needs.

Good luck.

AKfish

 

[AKfish]

Well.. 400 hours is 2 oil changes and still has another 100hrs to go before the 3rd (break-in @ 100hrs and every 200 after that). So, that's not a lot of hours or use on that tractor.

Couple of questions and observations. First observation is that Casper, WY gets hot in the summer, real hot and if you do a search here on TBN you'll find some comments regarding cabbed, 3320's and being short on power when brush hogging, etc. in summer running the air conditioner and the eHydro tranny (that eats ~5hp more than the reverser tranny).

That's not nearly as much of a problem with the turbo'ed 3520! With 6 acres of brush hogging 2-3 times a summer you might just find that extra $10K was a better, long-term investment.

Do you have (or planning to keep) your current attachments? Rear blade, box blade, brush hog mower, etc. The 3520 will be able to power many attachments that are another foot larger than what the 3320 will reliably work. Where you'd be using 5 foot equipment with the 3320; you can gear up to 6 foot attachments with the 3520. That may or may not be an advantage; especially if you're gonna have to go out and buy those implements!

The next question is financing terms. I haven't looked at the "up-to-the-minute" financing deals that Deere offers but, it seems that they might still have 0% for new tractors versus higher rates for used. Over the term of the loan - the initial $10K - is actually less when compared to financing a loan for used equipment.

Final observation is warranty. You'll have 90 days (likely) on the 3320 and a year on the 3520. If you have any kind of a problem in that first year - that $10K difference will shrink even more. So, work the numbers and see how close the 2 tractors really are in price and how one or the other will best fit your needs.

Good luck.

AKfish

 

[mowin]

10g's is alot of money...I have a 3320 open station, and like it alot. But if you could get the 3520 down some, that would be tempting...

 

[JDTank]

Well.. 400 hours is 2 oil changes and still has another 100hrs to go before the 3rd (break-in @ 100hrs and every 200 after that). So, that's not a lot of hours or use on that tractor.

Couple of questions and observations. First observation is that Casper, WY gets hot in the summer, real hot and if you do a search here on TBN you'll find some comments regarding cabbed, 3320's and being short on power when brush hogging, etc. in summer running the air conditioner and the eHydro tranny (that eats ~5hp more than the reverser tranny).

That's not nearly as much of a problem with the turbo'ed 3520! With 6 acres of brush hogging 2-3 times a summer you might just find that extra $10K was a better, long-term investment.

Do you have (or planning to keep) your current attachments? Rear blade, box blade, brush hog mower, etc. The 3520 will be able to power many attachments that are another foot larger than what the 3320 will reliably work. Where you'd be using 5 foot equipment with the 3320; you can gear up to 6 foot attachments with the 3520. That may or may not be an advantage; especially if you're gonna have to go out and buy those implements!

The next question is financing terms. I haven't looked at the "up-to-the-minute" financing deals that Deere offers but, it seems that they might still have 0% for new tractors versus higher rates for used. Over the term of the loan - the initial $10K - is actually less when compared to financing a loan for used equipment.

Final observation is warranty. You'll have 90 days (likely) on the 3320 and a year on the 3520. If you have any kind of a problem in that first year - that $10K difference will shrink even more. So, work the numbers and see how close the 2 tractors really are in price and how one or the other will best fit your needs.

Good luck.

AKfish

Took the words right out of my mouth, or keyboard.

Once you do the math, you will find it is not nearly a 10K difference. One big factor alone is the 0% interest. Whenever I can get 0% interest, I use it to the fullest. Why? Because in that situation, it costs you NOTHING to use someone elses money. At 0%, I have no remorse about borrowing. It costs you nothing in interest, why not get the brand new machine, with full warranty, and a fresh start?

Power wise, there is a very noticeable difference. The 3520 is turbocharged, the 3320 is not. The turbo makes a world of difference, and the 3520 engine is rated at higher HP as well. The 3320 IS under powered when running an implement with A/C on. A/C + eHydro + implement is a ton of power being demanded from a small naturally aspirated engine.

 

[Rockgod]

What size brush hog? A/C will rob some power so keep that in mind.

 

[BigMike50]

Took the words right out of my mouth, or keyboard.

Once you do the math, you will find it is not nearly a 10K difference. One big factor alone is the 0% interest. Whenever I can get 0% interest, I use it to the fullest. Why? Because in that situation, it costs you NOTHING to use someone elses money. At 0%, I have no remorse about borrowing. It costs you nothing in interest, why not get the brand new machine, with full warranty, and a fresh start?

Power wise, there is a very noticeable difference. The 3520 is turbocharged, the 3320 is not. The turbo makes a world of difference, and the 3520 engine is rated at higher HP as well. The 3320 IS under powered when running an implement with A/C on. A/C + eHydro + implement is a ton of power being demanded from a small naturally aspirated engine.

I think your gonna upset a few 3320 cab owners. Do you have actual evidence of people of with 3320 being that much underpowered?

 

[murphy1244]

0% is not free, its prepaid interest.

 

[soulasphil]

I drive a 3520 with 500 hours and still looking almost new. I have never felt it lacked power (contrary to my previous Massey 35). I would definitely go for the 3320.

 

[BuzzardA91]

0% is not free, its prepaid interest.

I agree with that in general. However, when I bought new a few months ago the cash price was the same as using the 0% for 48 months with JD. There was no dealer fee for taking the finanancing. There was a fee if I went with a longer loan. I shopped all the major brands and you are correct, if you took the financing the price went up. Wasn't so with JD 48 month 0%. My bottom line I paid was on par with the discount dealers on Tractorhouse and other Internet dealers. Dealer didn't care if I paid cash, financed, or any combination.

I guess you also would consider the warranty period for the new one and how many hours you plan to rack up every year. Either way $10,000 isn't chump change.

 

[jd670]

If it was me, I'd buy the 3320 and save the 10,000 for something else. I'll tell you why. In 2003 I went lookin for a diesel truck when I ran across this deal. Two identical 1999 Dodge 2500HD 4x4 long bed quad cabs. Both with the same options and same color, red. One was a V10 with 35,000 miles and the other a Cummins diesel with 70,000 miles. He wanted 13,000 for the V10 and 20,000 for the diesel. I asked why such a huge difference in price. He said that everyone was afraid of the V10 because of gas mileage over the diesel. Then he looked at me and said, "you wouldn't spend 7,000 on gas in ten years for the price difference." You know what, he was right. I bought the V10 and never looked back. I have 96,000 trouble free miles on the V10 and have only spent 2200 on gas in ten years. So I think for the difference in hp, I'd keep the 10 grand and buy attachments.

 

[jd670]

Correction to the 2200. Supposed to be a 4. Roughly 4400 on gas.

 

[BigMike50]

0% is not free, its prepaid interest.

Also that type of thinking will cause some one debt that spirals out of control

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

I'd agree with those who say save the $10K. Even if you have to finance the used 3320, the $10K savings will more than make up for the 0% financing and warranty, which more than likely will not be needed. With 72" MMM & 60" Snowblower + Air / Cab I have not found lack of power to be a problem yet. 400 hours is nothing. I went from 3320 O/S to 3320 CAB with no regrets.

 

[murphy1244]

I agree with that in general. However, when I bought new a few months ago the cash price was the same as using the 0% for 48 months with JD. There was no dealer fee for taking the finanancing. There was a fee if I went with a longer loan. I shopped all the major brands and you are correct, if you took the financing the price went up. Wasn't so with JD 48 month 0%. My bottom line I paid was on par with the discount dealers on Tractorhouse and other Internet dealers. Dealer didn't care if I paid cash, financed, or any combination.

I guess you also would consider the warranty period for the new one and how many hours you plan to rack up every year. Either way $10,000 isn't chump change.

When I was tractor shopping in 2011 the cash price was over a grand less than the finance price.

 

[GreenWannabe]

I have a different take on which tractor to get. Since Casper is almost a mile high, I would go with the turbo 3520. A naturally aspirated engine like on the 3320 will lose about 3% of its power for each additional 1000 feet in altitude above sea level, or about a 15% power loss. I would go for the 3520 for that altitude in order to have the a/c (I've been in Casper at 100 degrees) and sufficient pto power at the same time.

Good luck with your decision, and whichever you get, enjoy the new tractor!

 

[arlen4720]

I have a different take on which tractor to get. Since Casper is almost a mile high, I would go with the turbo 3520. A naturally aspirated engine like on the 3320 will lose about 3% of its power for each additional 1000 feet in altitude above sea level, or about a 15% power loss. I would go for the 3520 for that altitude in order to have the a/c (I've been in Casper at 100 degrees) and sufficient pto power at the same time.

Good luck with your decision, and whichever you get, enjoy the new tractor!

Now That's some good advice....

 

[BigMike50]

I have a different take on which tractor to get. Since Casper is almost a mile high, I would go with the turbo 3520. A naturally aspirated engine like on the 3320 will lose about 3% of its power for each additional 1000 feet in altitude above sea level, or about a 15% power loss. I would go for the 3520 for that altitude in order to have the a/c (I've been in Casper at 100 degrees) and sufficient pto power at the same time.

Good luck with your decision, and whichever you get, enjoy the new tractor!

I'm no expert but that rule plays a lot of weight on a gasoline engine.mi beg to differ on a Diesel engine. I doubt you would lose any more than 1 percent if that at 1000 feet on a diesel as compared to a gas engine. Aa big problem with this thread is that OP never stated is financial position. If 10k will cause you hardship, then get the 3320 and I'm sure you will be more than pleased. If you can comfortably spend the 10k and not lose any sleep, by. All means get the 3520. The 3520 is a great machine. I own one.

 

[arlen4720]

I'm no expert but that rule plays a lot of weight on a gasoline engine.mi beg to differ on a Diesel engine. I doubt you would lose any more than 1 percent if that at 1000 feet on a diesel as compared to a gas engine. Aa big problem with this thread is that OP never stated is financial position. If 10k will cause you hardship, then get the 3320 and I'm sure you will be more than pleased. If you can comfortably spend the 10k and not lose any sleep, by. All means get the 3520. The 3520 is a great machine. I own one.

Based on what I've read...GreenWannabe's 3% per 1000 ft is pretty **** close.