Urgent hydraulic purchase needed. Replacement cylinder

[Dadnatron]

My old scraper has turned out to be more of a hassle and hindrance than a benefit. It seems as though everytime I turn around something else goes wrong and as soon as I fix it, a new problem arises.

I have need of a new hydraulic cylinder after this one blew the back seal off and they repair place says it will be $700 and several weeks to rebuild it. Likely cheaper to just buy another.

I'm in a bind in that I need this scraper working early this week!

Where is the best place to buy a cylinder such as this and where can I get it quickly and at a reasonable cost?

The rod is 1 1/2" and I think the thing is about 30-36" long. I can measure it Saturday or might be able to get dimensions sooner, but basically, it isn't a small piece.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The machine is in Lexington, KY. I am currently in Indianapolis. So if you have any thoughts on either of these places, I'd appreciate anything you can offer.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Find another hyd shop or mobile mechanic. The seals are pretty common. Pay the mechanic to go pull the cylinder, get the seals and replace them. He will be in it for about an hour of actual labor with rebuilding it. Rest of the time will be spent picking up parts.

Brett

 

[CJONE]

IF the cylinder will come apart and IF the rod is not damaged. Quick and cheap usually do not go together. CJ

 

[Dadnatron]

Cylinder comes apart and moves freely. The rod does not 'appear' damaged. The seals looked to be intact.

Basically what happened was my own stupidity. I made 'stops' out of pipe in order to halt the travel of the rod. That 'stop' pushed into the back of the cylinder resulting in the failure of the main piece which holds the cylinder seals in the housing. I don't know what it is called, but it appeared to be about a 3/16" piece which was screwed/attached somehow into the housing, through which the rod then moved. I completely know my issue and that it was caused by me. But I also know why it failed and while I don't know about hydraulic cylinders, I do think that it was a single point of failure in this piece, caused by me. The cylinder slid freely afterwards. It collapsed completely with the seals freely sliding into the housing.

The failure is whatever holds the seals in the housing. This piece I believe is all that is wrong. Now... that might be a complete bust as far as the usefulness of this cylinder. I might have completely screwed it up in this instance. However, I really believe that is all that is wrong with it. It might be catastrophic, but it is a single point catastrophic issue.

3.5" bore
24" stroke
1.5" rod
I'm not exactly sure of the collapsed length.
Swivel eye on one side and clevis on the other. (This is the issue I am running into for a replacement. They seem to be built only with the same on both sides.)

But... I'm a doctor... not a hydraulic repair guy. I know enough to know I do know.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I doubt that you will find an economical cylinder that has a clevis base end and an eyelet rod end. Find someone to rebuild what you have. I just can't see it being more than $200 for the total bottom line cost. But then as mentioned, quick and cheap typically don't go together.

 

[Dadnatron]

They said $700+...

I'm going to look at it Saturday. I had simply assumed the fix was straight forward. They might be thinking it needs to be 100% when I am looking for 'functional'.

I think I just need a cylinder headcap that fits my piece. However, it doesn't screw 'around' the outside, it threads inside. I simply haven't found them online yet, but all the 'rebuilds' I see on YouTube have internal screwing caps. Mine is different, in that theirs appears to be much more 'beefy' than what was in mine. Mine is a relatively thin 1/8-3/16" round flat disc with threads around the entire outside. It screws down into the housing until it is flush. Also, it has 2 edges which have been cutoff, making it flat on 2 sides of the 'circle'. I suspect this was what allowed the screwing/unscrewing of the 'endcap or whatever this is called'. This flat piece is what broke, and allowed everything to come out. It very well could be FUBAR, but it still seems like it doesn't make sense to me.

This drawing is essentially what I can remember it looking like.

I do wonder whether it could be that it is an "Internal Threaded Ductile Head"?
Internal Threaded Ductile Heads (Wide) | CRC Distribution, Inc.



I found the schematic online: I need #13 listed as 'Guide' #HK041057

It appears it is MORE than the simple flat piece, in that it is attached to the entire main piece. Also, I don't remember seeing the internal snap ring, perhaps that is what blew out and allowed everything to disgorge. Any thoughts on getting this piece? I'll contact the local Industrial JD dealer tomorrow and see if that piece can be purchased.

I'm to the point that I don't care the cost, I need the machine up and working this coming week.

 

[Xfaxman]

Call 1-800-800-1811, Bailey Hydraulics in Knoxville TN. Website

 

[newbury]

<snip>
But... I'm a doctor... not a hydraulic repair guy. I know enough to know I do know.

I doubt that you will find an economical cylinder that has a clevis base end and an eyelet rod end. Find someone to rebuild what you have. I just can't see it being more than $200 for the total bottom line cost. But then as mentioned, quick and cheap typically don't go together.

Dadnatron - your a Doctor, MtnViewRanch is a hydraulic guy.

Does that $700 include someone coming out to take it off (1 truck roll, 1 hour time if they bill minimum of 1 hr), rebuilding it, going back out to install it (1 truck roll, 1 hour time)?

In my area a truck roll is about 1 to 2 hundred $$. 2 hours labor $200. That could be a big chunk of $700.

I had a FEL cylinder repaired for $40 on my M4700 2 years ago. It took 2 weeks, but I wasn't in a hurry. I took it off, delivered it, picked it up and reinstalled.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Surplus Center has a similar cyl for $129. It has a clevis base, a swivel eye rod end, a 1.5" rod, 30" collapsed length 15 " stroke.

3.25x15x1.5 DA HYD CYL | Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[Dadnatron]

Dadnatron - your a Doctor, MtnViewRanch is a hydraulic guy.

Does that $700 include someone coming out to take it off (1 truck roll, 1 hour time if they bill minimum of 1 hr), rebuilding it, going back out to install it (1 truck roll, 1 hour time)?

In my area a truck roll is about 1 to 2 hundred $$. 2 hours labor $200. That could be a big chunk of $700.

I had a FEL cylinder repaired for $40 on my M4700 2 years ago. It took 2 weeks, but I wasn't in a hurry. I took it off, delivered it, picked it up and reinstalled.

I took it off the scraper and delivered it to the repair shop Monday. There is no truck time what-so-ever.

I'm not even concerned (overly) about the cost. I think they are looking at more of a total overhaul than 'getting it back in functional order' but that is neither here nor there. I am simply needing my machine up and running. I would buy a new one for $700 if I could get it functional Monday. I wouldn't like it, but I would do it because my time is worth more than the cost of the cylinder. My issue isn't anything more than getting it up and running pronto. That is the beginning and the end of my concern.

I recognize that not everything can be done... and certainly not on my time frame. But that isn't going to stop me from trying to find an alternative to 'weeks'. That's not how I am built, not how I've lived my life. I can accept walls stopping me... but not until I have failed going over, around, or through them.