Trying to hook up a battery isolator on my new 4010

Short Game · Jun 2, 2011

Hi, I'm brand new here and haven't been to the new members thread yet. That's because I joined up to get some help. I don't have the repair manual that the dealer promised me yet so, no wiring diagrams. I bought a Sure Power battery isolator for my box scraper mounted Warn winch like the one that was on my dead Cub Cadet 7274. I thought it would be a snap to hook it up but I'm flying blind. Two days in and I've not gotten it working and thankfully, haven't melted anything down either. So, if anyone has done this job, maybe you can help me out.

Saturday will mark three weeks that I've had my new 2010 4010. I will tell the sad story of my Cub Cadet's passing when the outside work is done (ha ha).

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I discovered this forum while looking around for used tractors and see there is a fine bunch of people here. After my previous life on forums, I am not sure this is the same internet I'm used to. You guys are great.

LittleBlueTractor · Jun 2, 2011

Welcome to the LS forum Short Game.

My dealer had to order the service manual for my S3010 from LS Tractors USA and it took a couple of weeks for them to get it.

Don't know anything about battery isolators, but I did a quick google search and it turned up lots of information and images:

google search for battery isolator wiring

Hope that helps.

tommu56 · Jun 3, 2011

What engine is in the tractor there might be a on line print on the engine.

Usually it is as somple as taking the b term wire off alternator and moving it to isolator with a new wire and hooking a wire to from the input on isolator to the b terminal and the second battery to the other terminal.

http://www.grampianowners.com/Links/Battery_Isolator_Inst.pdf

Short Game · Jun 3, 2011

tommu56 said:
What engine is in the tractor..?

It's a 41 HP, 141 cu.in., S4QS Mitsubishi.

Travelover · Jun 3, 2011

All you need is a high current 12v relay, like a starter solenoid. Wire the little terminal to power with key on. Wire the batteries to the big terminals so they are in parallel with the key on and separated with the key off.

Short Game · Jun 3, 2011

I got 'er sorted after mowing today. Thanks to anyone who donated brain cell time to this.

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There is a main fuse (50 amp) taped to a plastic conduit not far from the alternator. It sticks off the side of the conduit. The back side of that fuse is the hot to the key switch. I had to cut it loose there from the alternator B wire and run a new hot to the fuse from the #1 battery post of the isolator. I done 'er up, clean and nice. Trying not to mouse up my new machine.