Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

[dfeck]

I came across an AD on craigslist selling a Troy Bilt Horse Tiller. The tiller happens to be in my town and was actually at a local small engine repair shop were it was serviced in december. The owner, who is selling it, doesn't know the exact year of the tiller. He bought it second hand. He was told by the mechanic it is around 15 yrs old. He's basing this on the 8HP Kolher engine that was on it. I did look at it and it has the cast iron trans and engine. I wasn't able to start it because of the weather (20 degrees). As a matter of fact, we didn't even try to start it because it was out in the yard buried in snow (somewhat). It was covered with plastic to protect it but surrounded by a foot of snow. The owner of the shop said it ran in december and worked fine other than a flat tire that he fixed. Overall, the condition visually looks good. The tines are in great shape. The shop owner isn't getting any commision for it so I trust he's telling me the truth about it running and working. He really doesn't know much about the owner of the tiller other than occasionally seeing him when the tiller needs work which hasn't been very often (minor stuff). The owner of the tiller is an older gentleman that is moving to Florida in 5 weeks and that's the reason for him selling it. My question is, would you hestitate buying without hearing it run and making sure it functions? He's asking $500 but I think he'll take $400 if pressed. Does the year sound about right? I know I would like to hear it run but the timing might not allow. The shop owner wasn't too keen about spending any time getting it running because he isn't making any money on the sale. BTW - he was a nice guy but I would agree with him on this issue. Plus he was surprised when I showed up because he didn't know about the owner selling it.

 

[2manyrocks]

These units came with 7 hp cast iron Kohlers in the early 1980's--the "K" series engines. Later, I think they switched to Kohler magnums and Briggs. I have a 7 hp kohler I bought in the early 1980's and still use it.

I would want to know if the engine ran like it was supposed to or if it ran with issues. You might need to put a tube in the tire or if you have to replace a tire, then that's not terribly expensive.

If it is in good running condition and if the tines are still good on it, then I think this is a better machine at $400-$500 than what you could buy new.


If there are issues with the motor, transmission or tines, you could end up spending more than you want. You would be taking a chance not seeing it running, but this is also an excuse to bargain on the price. Not many tillers are going to sell buried in the snow unless the person is familar with the tiller and isn't scared of it.

 

[dfeck]

Thanks - The shop did fix the tire by putting a tube in it. That's why it was there to begin with. The shop owner was expecting the owner to pick-up the tiller a few weeks ago so he pull it out from his shop in the back. Needless to say, the owner hasn't picked it up so instead of him dragging it back to the shop he left it there and placed a tarp over it. Since he did that it snowed. I have a couple of choices. 1. take a risk and trust the shop owner that it ran fine without issues and neg. a better price due to it not running. 2. tell the owner to get it running. 3. don't buy it

 

[2manyrocks]

Mine is a pull start, and I wouldn't want to try to start mine in the dead of winter.

Unless the shop guy is acting in concert with the seller or for some reason can't be trusted, at least you have some indication that it works. But you need to pull that tarp off and look at the tines on it anyway because a new set would be expensive.

 

[bontai_Joe]

With e Kohler 8 HP, could be as old as 25 years. For $500, I'd DEFINITELY want to hear it run and see it move forwards and backwards. Not hearing it run, maybe $250 or a little more. Two months sitting out in the winter can possibly do bad things to any machine.

 

[skidoo]

I was wonder what this was. Is a Horse Tiller some sort of Meat Grinder?

 

[Shmudda]

Actually....its a GLUE making machine!

I have (2) of these machines and both need engines as they are plum wore out from both my father and grandfather. They used these machines just about every day in the summer for one thing or another. When they did run they ran and tilled very well. One has a 6hp Tecumseh and the other was a 8hp Cast Iron Sleeve Briggs. I will get engines for them someday and get them going again, but for now they are collecting dust.

The price of 400-500 seems to be the going rate for one of these machines today. Back in the heyday, I believe they fetched 1200-1500.

Craig

 

[greenmule]

I got one with same motor and about same age,buy it.

You should be able to get it started if motors alright that is,get you some new gas and some carberator cleaner,siphon old gas out or pump it out or something,fill it with new middle test gas,take air cleaner cover off the side[one wing nut],check the oil and have at it,spray a little carb cleaner into carberator with choke open,than put throttle to max,choke it and pull,as soon as it fires open choke,might have to do this many times if its been setting a year or so,that carb cleaner really helps.

Mine will start on 4-5th pull every spring after setting all fall and winter. Its about 15 years old too,have used it every year since I bought it. There is a parts site where you can buy tires and tines and such,do a search,I need to order tires for mine,they are dry rotted bad,could use some tines too but the only thing I've done to it in those 15 years is replace fuel tank[screws were loose and it cracked] and drive belt once.

 

[AKfish]

They're a great machine!! Rock solid! Yes, the engines get tired and the tines break but the overall design and construction of those tillers is 1st rate! Back in the day - the larger ones were $1,500 - $1,800. The smaller, 5hp - Pony was around a $1,000.

They are super comfortable to use as the vibration of the engine and the jerk of the tines is not as directly transferred to the operator. The long wheelbase and extended handles makes them better balanced (not as tippy) and less muscle needed to keep the machine oriented.

The first tiller I bought was a Sears, front tine and it was a backbreaker and shoulder separator!! And while the longer, rear tine Sears is more comfortable and a better tiller - it's not as good a machine as the Troy-bilt: IMO.

If the mechanic is straight-up; you won't get hurt even at $500.

AKfish

 

[KentT]

They're a great machine!! Rock solid! Yes, the engines get tired and the tines break but the overall design and construction of those tillers is 1st rate! Back in the day - the larger ones were $1,500 - $1,800. The smaller, 5hp - Pony was around a $1,000.

They are super comfortable to use as the vibration of the engine and the jerk of the tines is not as directly transferred to the operator. The long wheelbase and extended handles makes them better balanced (not as tippy) and less muscle needed to keep the machine oriented.

The first tiller I bought was a Sears, front tine and it was a backbreaker and shoulder separator!! And while the longer, rear tine Sears is more comfortable and a better tiller - it's not as good a machine as the Troy-bilt: IMO.

If the mechanic is straight-up; you won't get hurt even at $500.

AKfish

LOL -- sounds very much like me. The first tiller I bought was the biggest Sears had at the time a 8HP, 24" front-tine. It almost killed me trying to fight it, since I only weigh about 175 lbs.

Then in 1988, I bit the bullet and bought a Troy-bilt Pony, complete with optional bumper, hiller-furrower, and row-marker. Came to over $1000...

I just replaced the tines for the first time last spring, replacing both axle and tineshaft seals at the same time. Added tubes to the tires since they're getting cracked and crazed. Touched up the paint (with a brush). Should be good for many more years.

I've replaced the belts once. Other than engine maintenance, that's it in 20 years of use. After sitting all winter, it'll still start on no more than 3 pulls. Smokes a little at start-up, but stops in seconds, and doesn't use enough to warrant adding oil before the next season's oilchange...

Simply the best, most hassle-free piece of outdoor power equipment that I've ever owned.

 

[2manyrocks]

I just saw one on the local list here for $400 with the 8 hp Kohler. Looks like it had been repainted recently because it was too shiny for its age and you could see the paint on the tires.

 

[oldmanmike]

He's asking $500 but I think he'll take $400 if pressed. Does the year sound about right? .

Not sure about the year, but 4-5 is too much without hearing and seeing if it runs like it's supposed to. You're buying a pig in the poke, $250 would be more like it. I paid 250 for my TF 1001. Great machine.

On the other hand, you cannot buy anything as rugged as an old Horse on the market now. There's one on EBAY now for $537 - just about mint condition. These are all variables only you and your finances can decide.

Check the botton of the axles by the tires for a leaky axle seal. Big trouble if there is heavy grease there. Those seals only come out by tapping them out from the inside the transmission.

Check the condition of the engine oil.

Throw the left lever down so that the machine is locked in the forward position. Check the tension on the two belts under the cast iron hood. Should be the same tension as the old style fan belts on a car (1/2 in" play). If it's more than that,

check the dual belt adjustment block for the belts. The left side lever is the forward reverse gear shift. At the very front of the lever, you will see a roller assembly that rolls up and down an eccentric block. In back of the block is a bolt, with an slot in the block to set the point at which forward (tightening the belts) engages. If the bolt is at the very bottom of the slot, you can just about count on paying a mechanic $50 to replace the belts. You can do it if you have small hands. I don't. Make sure he cleans the pulleys with CRC Brakekleen.

The machine will not run right without good belts. It will slip out of gear (like mine), stop spinning the tines when you hit the hard stuff. I ended up bracing my shoulders between the handlebars, left hand on the forward gear, right hand on the fast slow gear, to keep it going through this heavy red clay soil.
But I got it 1800 sq ft done.

Best $250 I ever spent. Of course, I had to change the oil, change the gear box 90 weight oil, (keep that gear box full, you want enough oil in there to supply the rear tine axle), sharpen the tines, new filter, new plug, clean out the carb bowl, wash out the gas tank, replace the gas line hose. That's stuff you have to do anyway.

Then I spent $70 adding an electric start (the engine already had a non-functioning starter motor that I tinkered with until it engaged the flywheel.) Couldn't let that starter motor go to waste. 8HP Tecumseh, not the original engine.

 

[greenmule]

Guess they made some with 2 or single belt,mines just got one belt.

Its one of the newer old ones[bought it about 13-14 years ago].

Also mines got a seperate gear box for rear tiller[adding oil].

Just ordered a belt for mine off of custompartsinc.com. And going to have new tires put on the wheels next week,[goodyear store ordered them],about 30 a piece I think they said.Belt was about 30 including shipping. Thats the only things I've done to it other than a gas tank several years ago.

Tines are about wore out,might get them soon also.First set.
Mines got an 8 hp kohler motor.

 

[oldmanmike]

Guess they made some with 2 or single belt,mines just got one belt.

Its one of the newer old ones[bought it about 13-14 years ago].

Also mines got a seperate gear box for rear tiller[adding oil].

Just ordered a belt for mine off of custompartsinc.com. And going to have new tires put on the wheels next week,[goodyear store ordered them],about 30 a piece I think they said.Belt was about 30 including shipping. Thats the only things I've done to it other than a gas tank several years ago.

Tines are about wore out,might get them soon also.First set.
Mines got an 8 hp kohler motor.

Hey, Greenmule, what's your tire size? I got one 4-8 the other a 5-3. If I had another 5-3, It would sit an inch lower, and dig an inch deeper. Steers just a leetle beet off. I don't know what I have - TF 1019 stamped on the handle, TF 1001-1 stamped on the transmission case (left side top). Thanks for the belt link.

(I thought to myself about the rear end, that was dumb, no check/add/drain plug.)

There's a set of tines on EBAY for $100 with no info other than 16 tines, 16 sets of nuts and bolts. In looking at those, and looking at mine, I'd say I'd need some, too, but if it ain't broke, I'm not going to fool with it.

I took the rear skirt off so I could see what I was doing. The machine tends to lurch forward when it hits the hard clay, so I grab the middle bar and dig in with my heels so it'll stay in one place while it grinds away. (Reverse doesn't work, fiber disc not available anymore).

 

[greenmule]

Tires are 4.80 by 8,

 

[J_J]

I have three Troybuilt tillers that have been sitting around for a couple of years. They were running when last used. One of them is a Horse, and the other two are Pony's. I also have a Troybuilt sickle bar mower that has about 20 hrs. It has been sitting around for a while. I also have, I believe a Swisher Trail mower with a 11 HP Honda engine. Bring your trailer and make a reasonable offer and if we strike a deal, then take it all away.

 

[greenmule]

If I lived within an hour or so of you,I'd take you up on that.but....

 

[bontai_Joe]

I can't imagine operating a Horse tiller with 2 belts in place. The pulleys may look side by side, but they are different ratios. By popping the belt from one side to the other you can speed up or slow down the ground speed (it's how you get 4 speeds, High-Low with the belt on one side and High-Low again with the belt on the other side). By running two belts at the same time, one HAS to slip because they would be fighting each other at different speeds.

 

[BATTY54]

My 6 HP tecumseh horse has 2 matched belts, that is the older 2 speed. The 2 speed has the reverse disk the goes into a groove in the pully. The newer model has a single belt that you switch to a different groove in the pulley to get your 4 speeds. It also uses a flat reverser disk that rubs a flat on the transmission pulley.

 

[oldmanmike]

Batty, I'd post a picture if I could. In reading the partslists at Replacement Parts and Accessories for your Troy-Bilt tiller - CustomPartsInc.com. , they distinguish between the older two speed and 4 speed that you describe. I got Rev A, it looks like. You guys got Rev B. Therefore, we have to distinguish between the older Horse 2 speed and newer Horse 4 speed.

That's a pretty good partshouse, Mule. They have my belt set and reverse gear.

But.

They don't have a wheel seal.

I have a wheel seal supplier from my best friend Manny Lema who's been doing bearings, belts, and seals for 40 years in Santa Clara, California. I'll post the manufacturer and part number when I get mine, and know that they work with no leaks.