Trouble with broken bolts. Mag drill available

[Dadnatron]

I have 4 broken bolts on my tractor.

10.9 - 20x90 bolts, broken off about 1/4" below the frame surface.

I drilled one out before and replaced it. Drilling it with a hand drill and time + frustration. But I was able to remove it without anything more than sweat.

I have a compact mag drill now, which can get to 2 of the bolts as is and the other 2 after these are removed and the loader frame is reattached.

So... on to my idiocy and issues.

I drilled out one without incident. Removal was straightforward.

I moved to the second, and put in the same size reverse removal tool, and snapped it off in the hole. So now, I have hardened tool steel inside the center of a hole of the bolt. Admittedly, I cut a corner and used only a 1/4" remover, as it worked on the other 2 bolts I have used. I know I should have taken the time and enlarged the hole for the larger remover, but that is only history and lesson learned.

So now, I need to remove the bolt, with a tool steel center which I cannot drill out with my mag drill, as I only have HSS bits. I cannot find a 3/4" Weldon shank drill bit in Carbide. Annular cutter won't work, I don't believe as it will leave the plug in the hole, thereby, I can't insert the removal tool. HOWEVER, I was wondering whether I could perhaps use an annular cutter and cut completely through the end of the bolt, into the end of the hole within the frame, thereby allowing the plug to be removed. I don't have an annular cutter that small, so 1st, if this is a possibility, I'd need to get a couple of cutters in order to cut deep enough with the shorter cutter, then put on a longer cutter, to allow for the short throw of my compact mag drill. The throw is about 1 1/2" and the bolt begins about 1/4" down in the hole.

Regardless, I need help.

I need either the smallest diameter annular cutter with 3/4" weldon shank, available (small enough to go down the length of a 20mm bolt with room to spare for inaccuracies) or I need a 1/4-1/2" carbide bit on a 3/4" weldon shank with lengths 1" and 2" in order to make it work.

So, if you have a good source for good quality bits like these, I'd appreciate the connection.

Carbide
Weldon shank 3/4"
- 1/4-1/2" dia - 1" and 2" lengths

Weldon shank 3/4"
- Annular cutter (smallest diameter available)
- 1" and perhaps 2 1/2" length cutting depth. ???

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[crazyal]

Screw extractors and taps suck when they break. I've resorted to just beating on them with a cold chisel to break them up. Other tricks I've tried is to use a very small bit (but not to small where it'll easily break) and drill around the outside edge if there's enough room. The nice thing about a screw extractor is they are tapered so it's just the end you need to free up. I would try to use a cold chisel to see if you can get it to rotate to remove itself. Heat could be an option but I only have a propane torch so others may be able to help you more with that option. If you own a welder there's some tricks you can do that also might work.

 

[LouNY]

Weld a nut on it and back it out.

 

[flyerdan]

If the EZ out isn't broken off flush with the bolt, would it be possible to tap a small 1/4" drive socket onto it an remove it? Then you could punch out the hole in the broken bolt and use a bigger extractor.

 

[Shaneard]

How good are you with a torch? It would be a quickie for sure but it could possibly blow it out if you can get it red hot real fast. Also agree with others about beating on it with a chisel or punch breaking it up.

 

[fried1765]

I have 4 broken bolts on my tractor.

10.9 - 20x90 bolts, broken off about 1/4" below the frame surface.

I drilled one out before and replaced it. Drilling it with a hand drill and time + frustration. But I was able to remove it without anything more than sweat.

I have a compact mag drill now, which can get to 2 of the bolts as is and the other 2 after these are removed and the loader frame is reattached.

So... on to my idiocy and issues.

I drilled out one without incident. Removal was straightforward.

I moved to the second, and put in the same size reverse removal tool, and snapped it off in the hole. So now, I have hardened tool steel inside the center of a hole of the bolt. Admittedly, I cut a corner and used only a 1/4" remover, as it worked on the other 2 bolts I have used. I know I should have taken the time and enlarged the hole for the larger remover, but that is only history and lesson learned.

So now, I need to remove the bolt, with a tool steel center which I cannot drill out with my mag drill, as I only have HSS bits. I cannot find a 3/4" Weldon shank drill bit in Carbide. Annular cutter won't work, I don't believe as it will leave the plug in the hole, thereby, I can't insert the removal tool. HOWEVER, I was wondering whether I could perhaps use an annular cutter and cut completely through the end of the bolt, into the end of the hole within the frame, thereby allowing the plug to be removed. I don't have an annular cutter that small, so 1st, if this is a possibility, I'd need to get a couple of cutters in order to cut deep enough with the shorter cutter, then put on a longer cutter, to allow for the short throw of my compact mag drill. The throw is about 1 1/2" and the bolt begins about 1/4" down in the hole.

Regardless, I need help.

I need either the smallest diameter annular cutter with 3/4" weldon shank, available (small enough to go down the length of a 20mm bolt with room to spare for inaccuracies) or I need a 1/4-1/2" carbide bit on a 3/4" weldon shank with lengths 1" and 2" in order to make it work.

So, if you have a good source for good quality bits like these, I'd appreciate the connection.

Carbide
Weldon shank 3/4"
- 1/4-1/2" dia - 1" and 2" lengths

Weldon shank 3/4"
- Annular cutter (smallest diameter available)
- 1" and perhaps 2 1/2" length cutting depth. ???

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Next time: Throw the extractor away before you start!

Buy, and use, a left hand drill bit set.

 

[4570Man]

Bolts that big would be a piece of cake to weld out. Sometimes I can get them to back out with a chisel by tapping in a ccw rotation around the edge. You might have better luck if you used a die grinder to make a dimple on the outside of the bolt. Another tactic I’ve used if the bolt is broken close to the top is cut a slit with a cutoff wheel and put a big screwdriver in it.

 

[dragoneggs]

Drill a couple holes around just outside the extractor and then try tapping it out with a chisel in CCW direction. Maybe you can get a small grind on the side/corner extractor to help you get a bite on it with your chisel.

 

[RickB]

Weld a nut on it and back it out.

^^^^ What Lou said.

 

[dragoneggs]

Weld a nut on it and back it out.

^^^^ What Lou said.

I like that idea too if you have a welder but it sounds like the bolt is sub-flush. My luck, I would probably weld the nut to the frame. How do you suggest to weld?